I wonder if somebody can explain how to get the old u-joints out.
There is no retaining clips on them.It looks like they are glued???
I have put a lot of pressure on the cups but nothing moves.
Should I just use brute force,or are there a better way.

Does new joints with clips fit these yokes.

 

The factory U-joints are retained with an injection-molded plastic ring. You just need to use a press to get them out. Heat also helps. The replacement U-joints with C-clips are designed to fit.

 

You can heat them with a torch gently and the plastic will run out like a worm. Don't use more heat than needed.

 

These are a real pain in the a$$.... I drilled out the plastic and pounded away

 

You still had to pound because the drilling did nothing. The plastic is in a pair of matching grooves in the yoke and the U-joint caps. The little hole you drilled is simply the passageway that the factory used to inject the plastic into the grooves on assembly. Drilling didn't do anything to the plastic in the actual groove that was retaining the caps.

 

A propane torch, like bernsamatic works great. The pin will ooze out like one of those carbon snakes we used lite on the 4th of July!

 

So what's being said is there's no easy way to get the driveshaft off without heat unless you can get a small u joint removal tool in there?

 

Wait. Are you just removing the driveshaft ? Or replacing universal joints?
Of course you must remove the shaft first to replace u-joints. Have you looked at a manual?

 

Heat did the trick.They are out.Thank you.

 

It is easy to get get the hole shaft out from under the car.The two bearings on the rear U-joint that are attached to the rear axel are retained with clamps(?) which are bolted on.Four nuts off and it is loose.

I am removing the driveshaft for sandblasting and painting,and replacing the joints while I am at it.

Actually nothing wrong with the originals.

 

Reviving this one, I got my old u-joints out and have what I assume are the correct new joints for my car(1972 Cutlass S 455/Turbo 400). The new u-joints have internal c-clips that retain them. My question is how do I get these in correctly? The grooves are in different places from stock. Also, do I need to burn out the orange retaining ring? I know this is god awful dumb but I worked as a dealer tech for years, and never actually replaced u-joints, it was usually cheaper to outsource those jobs and get a re-built driveline so this is new to me.
Thanks

 

Just get the "X" into position, tap the cups in, and snap on the clips.
It doesn't hurt to chill the cups / heat the yoke a little bit.

If the cup stops "just" before where it needs to be, only like 1/16" away, then take it out again, because you've got a needle lying in the bottom.

- Eric

 

From what I read I am interpreting that as you saying the retaining rings go in from the outside and push the cap down, is that correct?

 

The caps go in from the outside of the yoke toward the center.
They slide over the races at the ends of the "X".
The outside surfaces of the caps sit flush with the outside surfaces of the yokes.
The clips fit into the grooves in the edges of the caps near their openings, at the inside of he yokes.
You just snap them on with a screwdriver or whatever (don't let them fly away ).

The clips retain the caps against the inside edges of the yokes, and prevent them from being flung out by (the imaginary) centrifugal force.

- Eric

 

I tried to post a picture or what I have but the retaining rings are very thick, unlike the snap rings I am used to seeing. I grasp the concept of what you are saying about the "x" and the caps. My problem is that the retaining rings that came with both sets of u-joints are thick, think thick as the groove in the stock ones, which if installed above the caps would push the caps down.

 

I have this one:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...7127&ppt=C0362

O'reilly lists the same part number for both ends. You can see the rings I am talking about in the picture, the thickness of the rings is the same as the groove in the u-joint itself.

Am I over thinking this?

 

I even amaze myself some days. Re-read your post MDchanic and I realized I was having a "special" moment. I got the u-joints in the driveshaft inside of 10 minutes! That should cut down on the vibrations. Now to replace my front pump o-ring.

 

See, there ya go.

Sometimes you've just got to pause for a cold one and let your mind finish its job before your hands start theirs .

- Eric

 

Wow Eric, I know this is a really old post but so true. How I miss smoking. It gave me just the right amount of time to engage my brain before my hands

 

Trying to remove a set. Tried heat no luck. How much heat is needed. I have yet to see the plastic ooze out. Need some tips. thanks

 

Got it - it oozed out!

 

You'll know when you have enough heat because the plastic will ooze. If there is no oozing then look for retaining clips as the Ujoints have already been replaced at least once.

 

They were original U-Joints. I just had to apply the heat to the cap, and not to the area of yoke around the cap. Once I did that the plastic flowed out, and the u-joints pushed out.

 

Glad you got it.

 

Since I had already restored the driveshaft on my car in 2011 (with proper ID stripes) I didn't want to use heat. The shaft still had the original Saginaw u joints and they were in not bad shape. Certainly they weren't dry because I took one cap off to check and then cleaned all the roller bearings and repacked with fresh grease. Fast forward to 2020 - the year that keeps on raining on everyone's parade. I bought some Moog 534G's and took them to my local shop. Dale pressed out the old ones and put the new ones in. Took less than 15 minutes and they were perfect. Unfortunately they charge a flat hour rate to do that, but the shaft didn't get marked up or damaged in the process. Money well spent IMO.