442operator

I have the original TM code (O type 3.42 posi) rear end inmy 69 442. I’m in the middle of a restoration with original engine, M20 transmissionand rear end. When I drove the car before I took it apart, the rear end did notseem to have any problems. It did not make any unusual noises, was able to spinboth tires and did not leak. The rear end is out of the car now and I’m gettingready to reassemble the rear suspension. I think there is a good chance therear’s never been touched and think it makes sense to replace the bearings andseals and possibly shim/tighten/replace the posi spring(?) before I put it backin.

Of course I’d like to have monzaz or Brian Trick do the workbut that’s probably not feasible since I live on Long Island. So my firstquestion is: can anyone recommend a shop on Long Island that has the experiencewith the O type?

There is a full service transmission shop near me called A-1Award Transmissions that says they can do the work and have worked on Olds rear-ends.What’s the best way to work with a local shop to make sure the work is done correctly?Should I give them a parts list to use? Copy the pages in the service manual?

Any thoughts are welcome.

Thanks,

Ken

507OLDS

Yes,it does make sense to rebuild it,since it is out if the car.I could walk you through a rebuild.Since you are reusing the same gears and unit,you just put each shim back where it came from.I could rebuild the posi itself.Just ship the unit,and I would ship it back,so no special freight involved.
Or,if you just have some questions,let me know.

442operator

I thought about that. It looks easy on Power Block TV and sounds complicated when you read the service manual. What tools would I need to take it apart? I would assume I’d send you the POSI unit and the pinion and you’d rebuild/press on new bearings and send me the parts to reassemble. I’d have the local guy replace the axle bearings? How hard is it to put back together and what special tools would I need?

Thanks,

Ken

507OLDS

You will need a long punch of some sort,about 12" or more,to remove the bearing races from the pumpkin,and a long pipe to run through the axle tubes,to knock-out the tube seals.
Some good bearing race drivers,to install the new races into the pumpkin,and the new seals into the axle tubes.
I can walk you through everything else.

442operator

Ok, so I think I’m going to give this a try. I can buy a long punch. I have a set of Alltrade drivers that I use for wheel bearing races and seals. The largest one is 3.530 inches. Will those work? I assume the pipe would need to be long enough to go from end to end. What diameter?

I’ll try to open up the diff and take some pictures. Should I contact you directly to talk though disassembly?

Ken

DirtyDeeds

Hey guys (not a mechanic), I have a similar problem, '69 Supreme, low groaning sound, the noise seems slower than the tire rotation, so at 20mph its about 1/sec, put the car on stands and no sounds that I can hear. Wheel bearings seem good as far as no play goes, U joint has no play. Just wondering what is the quickest way to pinpoint it? And what should I be looking for in the diff. I have a 12 bolt-type O rear.

Sorry if I should be posting a new thread here, newbie. But I though we're already talking about it so why waste space!

MX442

Brian, is there an "approximate" cost to have you rebuild the posi? 7 years ago, I repainted the rear, and changed the fluid before putting it back in. (it still hasn't been driven yet). I used Royal Purple synthetic. oops.. A couple years later I saw a post that you said not to use synthetic. Last week, I pulled a wheel off and noticed that when I turned the wheel, the rearend chattered and the other wheel did not turn at all. I'm guessing I need to pull it back out and rebuild the whole thing.

507OLDS

If you never drove it with the synthetic fluid,then it sounds like the posi unit was in need of some attention before you ever touched it.The clutches might be perfectly fine,and only need shimmed tighter,but it is 40+ years old,so if in fact,you need new clutches,they would be $200.00.Then the cost of shipping the unit back & forth from Idaho.

442operator

I’m finally ready to the rebuild of my 69 “O” type now that the holidays are over. I opened it up and here are some pictures. As I said, I want to reuse the original gears, rebuild the posi, and replace all of the bearding and seals. Right now I need detailed instructions on disassembly.

Brian – Then I’d like to send the posi to you to be rebuilt. What’s the best way to connect?

Thanks

oldstata

I am getting ready to do this just want to subscribe to this thread


Thanks