scooter123

Second attempt at setting the pattern tonight.....been writing down all the shim combinations.. what do ya think....



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scooter123

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#4

scooter123

took another shot at the pinion and gear setup last night......0.040 on the pinion....and 0.010 backlash and here is the pattern


also bead blasted the backing plates and painted


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76olds

Your well equipped nice job on the plates your rear will look awesome. I can't answer any of your ?s wish I could thou. My rear is a few months away from doing yet still tooo cold here. Jim did mention to me to start with the original shim or a .038 shim to start.
Your defiantly giving me the confidence I needed to take on a job like that. Put-r-ther videos are all good too !!

scooter123

So here is the original pattern that came on the gear from new.....I guess I need to match this


Kinda getting tired of pulling this thing in and out.....must have did it over 40 times now


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scooter123

Final pattern....done and done!!!!
This was a big learning curve for me being the first one ive ever done. I must have taken this thing out about 40 times.....writing down every time what shims were used and where.....and pics to go with it!!!


I ended up with 0.043 in the pinion and 0.008-0.009 backlash
Thanks for all the help.
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scooter123

Well getting ready to set the preload on my bearing..... Made myself a little tool and the use of my breaker bar!!
Those Oldsmobile bible come in handy.... Lol


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I

76olds

I'm going to have to start working out Lol, I may not have the strength to handle that job . I would need a bible after cursing, My wife says everytime I work on the car my friends come out, meaning the F-bombs, Oh lick comes out at times too, Their never allowed to stay for supper !!! I figure I will have to pay the $$ to get mine done .

scooter123

Hey....if ya have the coin to get it done that's a great way to go!!! I how ever wanted to learn how this was done and im no mechanic but I do consider myself pretty mechanically inclined......and this was a great learning experience for me!!


If I were you I would give it a try.....you can do it!!!

scooter123

Well I finally got the pinion preload set tonight, after a second try.
First try went over....50 inch lbs....second time 30 Inch lbs ....Now im happy!!!


I also installed the axles and im ready to install the cover so my next question is proper gear oil for a posi carrier....my book says it will hold 4 1/4 pt.....what is this in litres...4litre?????


also some kind of additive needs to be in there??

copper128

4.25 pints = 2.01 liters

copper128

Oh yeah, 80W-90 mineral-based gear oil and GM #88900330 posi lube

MDchanic

Though there's no reason to think that 75W140 synthetic, along with the proper friction modifier, would be any sort of a problem.

- Eric

Allan R

Nice job Roger. I used 80/90 conventional gear oil with posi additive. The gear oil comes in tubes with a long thin nozzle you cut to make filling easier. Put in 2 tubes, then the gear oil, and top up to where the gear oil starts to ease out the hold. Install the bung and tighten. Make sure the diff is either reinstalled in the car, or AT THE SAME ANGLE it will be when installed or you could end up over filling.

You are probably right. My carrier is reconditioned series 3 and lightly used gears so I stayed with the conventional gear oil/additive. One thing I was cautioned about is that synthetic MAY be too slippery for the clutch packs on these older carriers. If Roger has a modern carrier it probably isn't an issue, but I'm not really sure. I'd be curious to know why you spec'd 75/140 instead of 70/90? The gear oil question has been discussed on several other sites and the general concensus is that for stock posi units like this synthetic often doesn't provide the requirements of SLIP and ENGAGE/GRIP. C'mon back?

MDchanic

I came up with 75W140 because that's what's specified, along with friction modifier, for the posi differentials in my Jeep, for heavy duty use.

I have no other experience with synthetic lubes in limited slip differentials.

- Eric

Allan R

Ah so, Eric san. I oopsed too. Should have said 75/90 synthetic. I think the Jeep posi's specify that 145 stuff because it's less likely to change consistency when it gets hot? My 1983 Regency Brougham had a limited slip diff. When I had to change the fluid in it, there wasn't really any choice - it had to be 80/90 with additive because the synthetics were just starting to evolve and they were way to expensive anyway. I guess I might be cheap like you when it comes to some stuff.

MDchanic

Cheap and simple is good.

- Eric

scooter123

Here Is what I picked up Al....I will pic another tube...wont be adding the fluid until its back under the car!


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Allan R

Same stuff I bought Roger but in smaller size containers. Should work just fine! I needed a lot more gear oil in my diff only because I installed that W27 cover. It requires almost another litre of gear oil. So with the added gear oil and finned cover it should keep the gears from getting overheated.

scooter123

Well I was hoping to install this diff back into the car this weekend but I went to order the last part...... Upper control arm bushings and my local parts store napa told me there were none in Canada......... So I went up the street and got them ordered and will be here in a week. I thought this would be a common part for any gm 10 bolt diff.

Allan R

That's a shocker. Hmmm, while you're at it doing those bushings you MAW do the front ones and the sway bar link kit. Chances are they are all in need of replacement. Did you go with rubber or poly bushings? Getting them back in the differential ears can be a beatch too.

Read a tip about that. Freeze the bushings overnight, and just before install heat up the ears of the diff. They're supposed to go in a lot easier that way. I read that after I did mine of course.

scooter123

Today I painted the rear drums......Im still waiting on the bushings for the diff and will put this sucker in!! Wish it was back in....I would have taken it out for a spin!!! Beautiful day here!!!


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76olds

Looks awesome, I can't wait to get into mine.

Allan R

So far so good. Looks like pressing in your bushings will be a lot easier than on an A body. Those horns don't appear to have any clearance issues I had on mine.

Purty heavy to move around isn't it?

scooter123

Got the last of the parts for the rear diff today.........the bushings!!


I bought a ball joint press kit from princess Auto on half price and it took some fandangling......but I made it work!!!


Hope to get this thing in on the weekend and get the brakes bled....and ready to Roll


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oldcutlass

Well done.

scooter123

went out this morning and Installed this rear diff in less than 1/2our......got to love it when it all goes well working alone on such a big item!! With the right tools...jacks/ jack stands it was so nice!!


So now it on to bleeding the brakes.....when I disconnected the lines I made the mistake of not pluging off the main line


So Any tips On bleeding the lines.....
step 1 keep both the resvoirs on the master cylinder full...
step 2 have a second person pump the brake then open and close the bleed screw till we have solid fluid flow

Allan R

Roger,
Glad it was easy for you to install the bushings. Why the heck didn't you just borrow the press kit from PartSource tool loaner program???

re: bleeding brakes. Check your MC. If it's empty you need to remove it and bench bleed it before you do anything else. If you do this you will need some plugs for the MC outlets. You can pick em up free at almost any car repair shop.

Bleeding you can do by yourself or with help. Here's how I did mine.
1. Get a clear plastic hose that fits over the bleeder nipple. Have enough hose to go down into the bottom of a glass jar.
2. Fill the MC reservoirs but don't cover them over. Keep the BF handy
3. Open one side rear bleeder and let it gravity bleed for about 20 - 30 minutes. In that time you should start to see the BF slllowwwwllly filling the jar. There should be bubbles at first which will change to clear fluid. If the bubbles 'hang up' put the cap on your MC and press the brake pedal gently to encourage flow, but only once or twice at this stage.
4. When the hose appears to be solid BF, close the bleeder and repeat the process on the other side.
5. When both sides have been gravity bled, you can then follow the step 2 you have in your post.

I'm guessing that the bushings haven't been torqued yet.

General rule of thumb on bleeding: Sequence as follows- Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

scooter123

Al the nearest auto source is 160km round trip.....So the ball joint tool worked just fine!!

Allan R

Gotcha! IIRC the torque on those rear control arms is 80 ft/lbs with the weight of car on the suspension. I found that lowering the axle onto jack stands worked ok for that. Just have extras under the frame for safety. Clearances can get a bit tight.

Koda

Tightening bushings at standard ride height is very important, and it's done on today's car lines too.

scooter123

went through the proper steps in tightening all the bolts........got to the last lower control arm bolt and the Beaaatch went on cross threaded...****!!!




So can I just take this bolt to a shop and get them to run a die down the bolt and a tap through the nut??? Is this a 1/ 2 bolt with 11 TPI ???


Or can I just buy a new nut and bolt from napa

76olds

1/2 -11 is pipe tap, Too bad it wasn't a 1/2 -13 it would be a little easier. That sucks I'm sure the would have a cheap pipe tap and die, you may have to get the set thou. Or just giver with some copper anti seize spay and tighten it, if you need to take it out later just torch it or drill it out would that work?

Allan R

How does it cross thread when you have to start them out by hand?

Too bad its so friggen cold here right now or I could dig up some spares I have. I believe they're in the shed out back. You probably can buy a spare from NAPA or Partsource. Last time I was at Partsource they had a bin of G8 different sizes and locking nuts. Crappy tire might also have em. I wouldn't put a trashed bolt/nut on a suspension part. It HAS to be good.

scooter123

so just grab a 1/2 grade 8 bolt and lock nut??? That's easy enough!!


This thing will be out on the road before the snow is gone.................yyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyiiiiiiii iipppppppeeeeeeeee!!




lol

76olds

I can't wait to hear your response to the improvement. I getting anxious to get mine done and laying a couple strips down myself.

scooter123

At - 25c here today I fired p the 71 olds....boy it was sure nice to hear the 455 again!!


I just took it for a bout a 1 km run in the highway....babying it all the way....I know I have to break in the new gears!! All seemed great no weird sounds or vibration What a great feeling working on these old cars!!!

Allan R

Nicely done Roger. How'd the drive turn out? I guess the brakes are working too huh?? She sounds pretty healthy.

scooter123

It went well Alan.....I got the brakes bled last evening using a one man bleeder tool...worked great!!


Now I just need to track down the new spedo gear thing for the th400 trans
from 3.08 to 3.73.....ant idea where to purchase such an animal????

Allan R

Try these guys Performance Transmission and Parts