White_Knuckles

Hey are any of you guys running Valvoline VR1 in your flat-tappet engines? I recently read where this oil available in both conventional and synthetic contains high amounts of zinc - a great lube for old style cams and tappets. I've been using Castrol GTX 10-30 dino oil.

Any bonus using the VR-1 "Racing" oil? If so, synth or conventional? Or has marketing hype set in but again?

tru-blue 442

I, Eric, (Oldcutlass) and some others use it.
I use the 30 wt. myself. They say it has the right
amount of zinc for our engines.
I too use the Castrol 10-30 GTX in my daily's.

White_Knuckles

Wow blue, I didn't catch they make a straight weight 30. Perfect. Here's the PN:

Name: Racing SAE 30 Motor Oil Size: Quart Part: VV223 UPC: 0-74130-00223-4

mmurphy77

I've been using the VR-1 (but in 20W50) for years with no problems. It's funny, I too, have been using Castrol GTX in my daily driver forever.

oldcutlass

I use VR1 and we've discussed this many times.

Here is a good read.
http://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

White_Knuckles

^ oops, got excited thinking it was a newer product. Should of searched.

When Googled, a Chevelle forum had a few threads discussing VR1 synth vs. dino with no conclusion to be had. The other sword fight they had was over straight wt. vs. multi.

So far I picked up more zinc is a good thing if you don't run cats. The oil blend with other additives is important not necessarily zinc alone. Heavy multi-weights are best suited for engines with large main bearing clearances. Some swear by their favorite dino brand with Edelbrock break-in additive (heavy zinc) with every change. Eric's link demonstrates Eldelbrock's zinc often INCREASES wear from the factory blend. Mutli-weight is superior for cold start-up.

Talk about over thinking stupid oil! We'd dump in Quaker State 30, paraffin based Junk Oil in the 70's and rip around fine. Just had to de-sludge the poor devils every now and then. Great link, answered all my questions. VR1 10-30 silver bottle for the win.