Death by a thousand cuts, after rebuilding the ENTIRE front end, and rebuilding the motor. Cleaning and restoring the firewall and all the components mounted to it. Cleaning every nut and bolt. I have now come to the conclusion this evening that I should replace the positive battery cable. After some basic google searching I can't seem to find one! Any help in locating the correct cable with the heat shields included would be appreciated.

It just one thing after another.

 

The heat shield if your talking about black plastic covering the cable. You can buy that at any auto parts store. The battery cable I would think Year One, Paddock, The Parts Place would sell them.

 

Fusick has the original style ones if you want to go that way and spend about $50 per cable. I went to a local battery distributor and had one custom made with crimped on terminals and shrink wrap. (only cost $7.50)

 

That's fabric wire loam on those, never seen that on those cables there?
It has to go on before it's assembled, that's not plastic convalute tubing.
Unless it's asbestos fabric loam it's more to prevent abrasion than anything else.
That looks like a top post cable?
Didn't the 72's use side post batteries?

 

My battery has side posts

 

1972 was the first year for Cutlass side terminals.
The picture resembles a side post term in very bad shape, missing the screw...

 

That is a side post, my bad.

Did the originals have that fabric covering on the battery end?
Major faux pas if the repos are supposed to and don't, do they?
Maybe they did that because that cable and wire can rub the side of the battery on side posts?
A lot of older cars had the fabric anyplace where rubbing or pinching could cut or damage the wire.

 

Thanks for all the replies. It is a 72 side post cable. That destroyed connector in the picture is what was attached to the starter. The end pictured was what passed through the insulator tube and connected to the starter and, crap, would need to refer back to some other pictures I have as to where the smaller gauge wire went to. Maybe it was the solenoid? Looked at some of the after market suppliers recommended in the earlier reply and their pictures were not very clear as to how their cable assembly would be constructed. I guess I'll have to call them and see if they can provide more details like if they include the insulator on the cable.

On a side note, This forum is amazing. I have been reading everyone's restoration stories and enjoying all the pictures. I'll have to post some of mine. Not your classic frame off, and unfortunately after I'm done the car will look exactly the same going down the road but it should drive better than new and look great under the hood. Does anyone sell a clear plastic hood? lol

Again thanks for the replies, hopefully after all the things I'm learning about rebuilding the front end and engine compartment will allow me to contribute some help instead of being the needy one!

 

I've always got all of my electrical stuff through M&H electrical. They fabricate exact replicas. I got a new engine harness and positive battery cable from them, and no problem. I have never seen the insulator tube you refer to reproduced by anyone. They usually go for around $50 and up on ebay, depending on condition. Go to this website for info:

www.wiringharness.com Chumley

 

Just so everyone doesn't think I'm crazy here's a picture of the positive battery cable connected to the starter before everything was torn down. What ever the heat shield was for it sure looks like a good idea to find something to replace it due to its close proximity to the block. Or maybe a previous owner routed it the wrong way. No body else has this cloth looking sheath over the starter end of their cable?

 

My 71 does not have that covering on it. It is an unmolested car with 42k org miles. Someone else would have to chime in here with a 72 for comparison.

 

M&H is the best.

 

might that be this:
http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts....?number=BCT684

"1968-74 V8 Battery Cable Tubes: Necessary part for all detailed restorations of Cutlass, 442, H/O models with V8 engines. Positive battery cable is routed through tube at rear of engine for heat protection. Made of brown heat resistant material and mounting bracket is included. Automatic transmission cars used 5 1/8” long tubes while manual transmission cars used 7 5/16” long tubes."

 

ddd777 thats the orginal insulator, if you have the bracket you could use a shipping tube, its the same material, just cut to lenght, not for show but will work