alignment, shake and wobble question
#1
alignment, shake and wobble question
Last winter I replaced every component in the front end of my '72. All bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends. I aligned it myself using a set of turn plates and a Fastrax alignment tool. I love diving in to new learning opportunities like this and buying the tools so i can handle these types of things in my own shop.
I have checked and tweaked the alignment several times this summer, trying different camber/caster settings to learn how it changes the handling and feel of the car.
The one thing I can't seem to tune out of it is a very slight wobble or shake that happens between 30-40 mph. Nothing seems to affect it. I can't make it worse or better. I've tried rotating the tires and nothing changes.
Looking for ideas on what to chase on this one...... i'm running 1/8 inch toe in. Maybe play with that setting? after 40 mph it is smooth and straight with no issues
Thanks
I have checked and tweaked the alignment several times this summer, trying different camber/caster settings to learn how it changes the handling and feel of the car.
The one thing I can't seem to tune out of it is a very slight wobble or shake that happens between 30-40 mph. Nothing seems to affect it. I can't make it worse or better. I've tried rotating the tires and nothing changes.
Looking for ideas on what to chase on this one...... i'm running 1/8 inch toe in. Maybe play with that setting? after 40 mph it is smooth and straight with no issues
Thanks
#5
Do you have any play in the steering wheel? If any at all, these "A" bodies like to go unstable at their resonant frequency, which for you appears to be between 30 and 40 MPH. Steering boxes spend 90% of their running lives going straight ahead, and that's where they like to loosen up. Consider tightening up the steering box. An adjustment may help, but you may require a box rebuild. (...or it might be one of the problems oldcutlass mentioned, and add unbalanced tire and bad shock(s) to that list.)
#6
1. I would start by borrowing a pair of good tires/wheels. Replace the front tires and check. If no change, replace tires on the rear and check.
2. If no change, then get it on a rack that allows running the car. With an observer below, run to 30-40 mph and watch wheels for wobble or other unusual things.
3. If this doesn't show up anything, start looking at the drive train. Start at the transmission.
2. If no change, then get it on a rack that allows running the car. With an observer below, run to 30-40 mph and watch wheels for wobble or other unusual things.
3. If this doesn't show up anything, start looking at the drive train. Start at the transmission.
#7
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
The question I would ask is 'Did the car drive normally before you did all this work"? If it did, the problem is with something you've done, not the wheels, tires, rear axle etc.
#8
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jpc647
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November 11th, 2014 02:26 PM