opinions and help with 3 issues

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Old May 12th, 2012, 11:34 AM
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opinions and help with 3 issues

I have 3 issues. One I would like opinions on the other 2 I need a little help on my 72.

1st issue: When I bought the car, the heater core was not and is still not hooked up. I would like to hook up the heat (it's still a little chilly at 4:30 in the morning when driving to work). What I would like to know, is should I attempt to connect the one that is there and hope for no leaks or just replace it then connect it.

2nd issue: In my attempt to get the AC electrical harness and broken wires repaired, I was trying to attach the ambient air temp switch. Well, it fell down in the plastic housing next to firewall. I can't seem to locate it. I spent 2 hours trying to fish it out to no avail. Suggestions?

3rd issue: I am also trying to get the console lights working, The harness is there. I see no broken wires. According to the Chassis manual, it goes up into the dash, then over to the fuse box. I cannot see where it would attach to the fuse box,

Thanks
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Old May 12th, 2012, 11:58 AM
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On the heater core, the reason it's disconnected is probably because it leaks.

On the air temp switch, your on your own. I hate fishin!

On the console lights, do they light when you hook them up to power?
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Old May 12th, 2012, 12:27 PM
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1. I'd hook up 2 hoses to the inlet/outlet on the firewall side and then fill them with water. Plug or cap one hose and see if you can put some pressure on the system (about 14 psi is lots) If it starts leaking in the car, X2 on what oldcutlass said. I have seen folks disconnect these hoses for exactly that reason. Just a cheapo solution to not repairing the problem. If you have to replace the heater core, the next item will be a logical step in your fix.

2. The only way you're going to get that temp sensor out is a major PITA. It involves taking out the inner liner so you can get to all the bolts that hold the AC evaporator box in place. If it stays loose in there, it can also jam the 2 inside air flow vents. You'll see that in the link I'm attaching.

3. Ok, lets start with the basics. Do the dash lights work? If not, check the fuse and retest for lighting. If dash lights on but console not, are there bulbs in the console sockets? If there are test them for burnt out. If they're good you likely have a disconnected pigtail going to the main harness, or you have a broken wire in the feed. (measure resistance in the wire and see if you get 0 - if you get a high reading? broken wire) Has this console been out of the car recently?

I know it's a bit of reading, but Rob Young did a rebuild on his 72. I'm inserting this link at the stage where he already had his suspension and inner liners out, but you can see how the AC evaporator box is attached in this thread. Worth reading through to the end of the AC stuff; it will likely help you a LOT https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post296856
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Old May 12th, 2012, 12:32 PM
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As far as the heater core, I bought it and had it shipped back from San Diego. They don't really need heat there. The person I bought it from had the car for 3 years and never bothered to check it out as he didn't need the heat.

Let me clarify about the console harness. I can not see as to where it would connect to the fuse box based on the diagram in the chassis manual. I can't find the female end that would connect to the fuse box.

Thanks
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Old May 12th, 2012, 12:37 PM
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The dash lights work. No there are no bulbs in the console sockets. I did remove a working bulb from the courtsey lights and placed it in the socket and nothing.
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Old May 12th, 2012, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by bigfun64mo
Let me clarify about the console harness. I can not see as to where it would connect to the fuse box based on the diagram in the chassis manual. I can't find the female end that would connect to the fuse box. Thanks
The reason you can't find the connector is you're looking in the wrong spot - it's attached to the main body harness already installed behind the dash. Use this link and go to Sec12 page 126.(bottom right of drawing page) It shows the location of the console plug into the main wiring harness behind the dash. Don't worry that its a 71 Assembly Manual, the 72 is identical in every component. http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe...12__Part-1.pdf

One of the things you should also check is whether the console ground wire is hooked up.
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Old May 12th, 2012, 03:02 PM
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let me add, that the glove box light does not work, it was disconnected but i re-connected it, nor does the light on the rear view mirror. i did replace the bulb on that as it was blown. i don't have a cigarette lighter to see if that works or not. Could all these issues be connected?
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Old May 12th, 2012, 03:54 PM
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Fuse for the CTSY lights?

Verify voltage present at both sides of all fuses when the electricity is turned on.

Courtesy lights go thru the dimmer in the headlight switch too so perhaps there's a problem there.
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Old May 12th, 2012, 07:34 PM
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Take out the blower resistor and an extendable magnet might aid you in extracting the ambient switch through the resistor hole.
If that fails, I would say the heck with it and just install a new one (well, used, since they are not reproduced). The evap core will keep it from getting stuck in the air doors.

The heater core is not as bad as one might think - I have a how-to thread here about that. Leaking is the only logical reason to unhook one.
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Old May 19th, 2012, 12:51 PM
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Ok, After working all week and letting this little project sit, I tried to finish this today. Good news, First I got the console lights to work. Unfortunately, now the dash lights, courtesy lights and console lights will not shut off unless I remove the fuse. Also, the radio no longer works. I decided to call it quits as I have a bad cold and am rather cranky because of it. Will try again tomorrow. Hopefully I will feel better.
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Old May 19th, 2012, 01:09 PM
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Well that's some progress anyway. Get better. I know how I react when I get cranky....tend to not thing too logically.

You prolly already know, but somewhere you have a wire that's getting direct power feed instead of going through the light switch. (any chance your headlight switch is defective, or did the lights go on/off before you got the console to work? Headlight switches don't cost much)

Just track it down when you feel better. Electrical can be very time consuming and you'll need your patience.
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Old May 19th, 2012, 03:59 PM
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Allen, After a good nap, more Dayquil,and reading your post. I went back though and thought about would require current all the time. The clock was all that came to mind. Well, my car doesn't have clock. I guess in my attempt to read the schematic of the manual, I found two connection that weren't going anywhere. One was orange and it was with the console bundle the other was grey. I connected them. Went back in and disconnected them and now everything works as it should. Thanks for your help.
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Old May 19th, 2012, 09:00 PM
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Glad it worked out for you. Don't thank me - you're the one who did the work. Give yourself a pat on the back.....pass the Nyquill
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