A newbie with a 69 Cutlass S Convertable
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Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2
From: Southern Ohio
A newbie with a 69 Cutlass S Convertable
Hello Everyone,
I would like to thank the membership of this forum for letting me join. I have been scoping it out for a few days while my membership was being activated. Looks like there is plenty of good info here, but you folks are going to have to excuse my ignorance about the Cutlass. I always wanted to restore a classic car and came across this model that an inlaw has had stored in a garage for about 18 years and is about 50% completed. I know some information about the car because I found it on a sales bulletin at the place I work. It was going to be a father-son rebuild project at the time, but the boy got married and lost interest and dad wants to go on and make room in his garage. He wants rid of it so I am going to buy it. Metal wise the body and frame appear to be staight. When they bought it it ran well and had a little rust on the rocker pannels. The doors were solid. It has been primered, so it is partially apart but looking through the boxes almost everything looks to be there. The interior is pretty rough, but again everything is there, but dirty. The top is shot. I have not started the 350 4 barrel yet. I don't believe this is the original engine. I believe it had the 350 2 barrel when they first got it. but it was 20 years old when they got so who really knows what was really in it when it was first built at the factory. They decided to up grade the motor and he claims that the motor came out of another 69 cutlass. I am going to look for numbers tonight on the block and such. So I know I will have some questions over the next few days. There is a lot of info on the 442 and the Hurst Olds, rightfully so, but there seems to be little info on the production numbers on the S line except those with high performance options. Sadly, I started driving in 71 and never got to own one of these 300+ HP beasts. My Brother who was ten years older than me at the time had 2 true muscle cars that I had the pleasure of riding in and got to drive one of them. The first one he had was a 66 or 67 396 Chevelle SS 4 speed which I nerver drove and the other was a 70 Superbee which I did drive a couple of times before he got laid off of his job and had to give it back to the bank. I hope that the memories that I have of this kick *** power are going to be relived. I plan over the next few days to inventory what is right and what is wrong with this car and try to make a time line on how to go about this. I figure this is going to be a 2 to 3 year project to get it right. Any comments you have would be welcomed because I figure this model would be a good canidate for a resto-mod type of restoration. I look to start to look at some of the major mechanicals first. Any advice on starting the engine?. I guess new oil would be a good start. I think I may remove the gas tank and get what ever is left in the tank out and rinse it out with acetone. I have been told that some GM cars have some type of sticker on the top of the gas tanks that has a lot of info on the car as it was being built. Is this true? Well thanks a lot. I know I am getting pretty windy here.
Deerslugoh
I would like to thank the membership of this forum for letting me join. I have been scoping it out for a few days while my membership was being activated. Looks like there is plenty of good info here, but you folks are going to have to excuse my ignorance about the Cutlass. I always wanted to restore a classic car and came across this model that an inlaw has had stored in a garage for about 18 years and is about 50% completed. I know some information about the car because I found it on a sales bulletin at the place I work. It was going to be a father-son rebuild project at the time, but the boy got married and lost interest and dad wants to go on and make room in his garage. He wants rid of it so I am going to buy it. Metal wise the body and frame appear to be staight. When they bought it it ran well and had a little rust on the rocker pannels. The doors were solid. It has been primered, so it is partially apart but looking through the boxes almost everything looks to be there. The interior is pretty rough, but again everything is there, but dirty. The top is shot. I have not started the 350 4 barrel yet. I don't believe this is the original engine. I believe it had the 350 2 barrel when they first got it. but it was 20 years old when they got so who really knows what was really in it when it was first built at the factory. They decided to up grade the motor and he claims that the motor came out of another 69 cutlass. I am going to look for numbers tonight on the block and such. So I know I will have some questions over the next few days. There is a lot of info on the 442 and the Hurst Olds, rightfully so, but there seems to be little info on the production numbers on the S line except those with high performance options. Sadly, I started driving in 71 and never got to own one of these 300+ HP beasts. My Brother who was ten years older than me at the time had 2 true muscle cars that I had the pleasure of riding in and got to drive one of them. The first one he had was a 66 or 67 396 Chevelle SS 4 speed which I nerver drove and the other was a 70 Superbee which I did drive a couple of times before he got laid off of his job and had to give it back to the bank. I hope that the memories that I have of this kick *** power are going to be relived. I plan over the next few days to inventory what is right and what is wrong with this car and try to make a time line on how to go about this. I figure this is going to be a 2 to 3 year project to get it right. Any comments you have would be welcomed because I figure this model would be a good canidate for a resto-mod type of restoration. I look to start to look at some of the major mechanicals first. Any advice on starting the engine?. I guess new oil would be a good start. I think I may remove the gas tank and get what ever is left in the tank out and rinse it out with acetone. I have been told that some GM cars have some type of sticker on the top of the gas tanks that has a lot of info on the car as it was being built. Is this true? Well thanks a lot. I know I am getting pretty windy here.
Deerslugoh
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,127
From: Rathdrum, Idano
Welcome to the site. You have to post 5 times over a couple days to have access to other forums on this site. This helps prevent spam. If one of the super mods sees this thread he will mot likley move you to full access sooner. Starting an engine that has been in storage for a long time takes some prep work. You will find advice on this in a number of threads under big block and small block forums. If you can't find them let us know and we will direct you. Ask any questions that come to mind lots of smart guys here and they are all willing to help you out. Good luck
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 11,909
From: Brazil Indiana
just to see what you have in the running department, just add about 5 gallons of gas to the tank and dribble a little gas in the carb and see if it will start. you may be surprised how easy it will start if it ran when parked. after you start it you will want to do a tune up and watch for oil leaks. the gaskets may be dried up and start leaking. good luck and have fun oldsmobiling!
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 25
Welcome aboard
You will enjoy your car and this site and don't forget to ask questions because everyone is full of knowledge and advice.
1972 cutlass 's'
1969 F-85 2 door post car
1971 C-10 pick-up( my retirement project )
1972 cutlass 's'
1969 F-85 2 door post car
1971 C-10 pick-up( my retirement project )
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 4,086
From: Too close to Toronto!!
Paper work
The Cutlass paper work (line sheet) is usually under the rear seat lower cushion, stapled to the springs or inside the buckets behind the back cover stapled to the springs..
the gas tank hiding place is for Vettes 
- any others?? and Welcome...
the gas tank hiding place is for Vettes - any others?? and Welcome...
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2
From: Southern Ohio
I would like to fix it up to be a solid driver. My true goal would have it painted well and mechanically sound and drive it out west for about 3 weeks here in a couple of years. I have done a western motorcycle tour 3 years ago. Now a tour in a classic car something I would love to try. I love riding in cars. When I was a boy we always went on a Saturday or Sunday drive and had a picnic during good weather. My mother didn't drive. She made no real demands on my father, who was quite a character, except that we had a weekend drive. unfortunately, my wife is not a big riding fan as I am. I love the open road. I am making a trip to Colorado in a couple of weeks to take my 15 year old grandson to see some of the west. From Ohio it 1200 miles of boring driving to get there, but it is driving and I love being in a car.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,052
From: Phoenix, AZ
Welcome. Since you're new to the Oldsmobile game, perhaps I can put you in the direction of the Olds parts houses out there.
Seeing as I'm just finishing up a restoration, I can point you in a couple directions that shouldn't steer you too wrongly.
For Oldsmobile engine parts and matters, check Mondello's:
http://www.mondellotwister.com/
For a general parts house, I used the following:
http://www.fusick.com/ Order their catalog, as their website isn't all that great.
http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/home.asp The Parts Place picked up the slack on items that Fusick didn't carry. You sometimes have to be careful on a few parts, as they have them marked for your particular car, when it was a more general GM A-body part. Overall, though, they had several parts I could not find elsewhere.
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/ Have used them on a few items, such as AC Delco parts.
www.rockauto.com While not Olds specific, they'll have the best price on general parts.
For interior items such as door panels, seat covers, headliners, I definitely use Legendary Auto Interiors. Keeps your eyes peeled as they often have % off sales or free shipping. http://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/home.aspx
There's others, but I primarily stuck with these. Good luck and post pictures as you progress.
Seeing as I'm just finishing up a restoration, I can point you in a couple directions that shouldn't steer you too wrongly.
For Oldsmobile engine parts and matters, check Mondello's:
http://www.mondellotwister.com/
For a general parts house, I used the following:
http://www.fusick.com/ Order their catalog, as their website isn't all that great.
http://www.thepartsplaceinc.com/home.asp The Parts Place picked up the slack on items that Fusick didn't carry. You sometimes have to be careful on a few parts, as they have them marked for your particular car, when it was a more general GM A-body part. Overall, though, they had several parts I could not find elsewhere.
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/ Have used them on a few items, such as AC Delco parts.
www.rockauto.com While not Olds specific, they'll have the best price on general parts.
For interior items such as door panels, seat covers, headliners, I definitely use Legendary Auto Interiors. Keeps your eyes peeled as they often have % off sales or free shipping. http://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/home.aspx
There's others, but I primarily stuck with these. Good luck and post pictures as you progress.
Last edited by 68Tom; Jun 2, 2009 at 12:44 PM.
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