maybe a 69?
May 2nd, 2007, 12:15 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 2
maybe a 69?
hey everyone,
im new to the oldsmobile game, dont realy know about them at all.
lately, i've been looking at a 1969 Cutlass Supreme
...."2 dr, 350 4 BRL, auto, air, ps, pb, 93,000 orig miles, rust free, one owner, North Carolina car, garage kept in excellent condition, turn key, drive anywhere $10,900."
.. it looks pretty well maintained, though i havent seen it in person..
how long, granted it's been maintained by someone who kind of knew what they were doing, do you all think the car might last?
is it worth it?
also, parts.. easy to find?
mechanics that know the car.. easy to find?
.. would the suspension be able to handle new tires, or would i be looking for special tires?
.. sorry to sound so new, just dont know where else to go to get the info.
thanks all,
- matt.
toronto, canada
im new to the oldsmobile game, dont realy know about them at all.
lately, i've been looking at a 1969 Cutlass Supreme
...."2 dr, 350 4 BRL, auto, air, ps, pb, 93,000 orig miles, rust free, one owner, North Carolina car, garage kept in excellent condition, turn key, drive anywhere $10,900."
.. it looks pretty well maintained, though i havent seen it in person..
how long, granted it's been maintained by someone who kind of knew what they were doing, do you all think the car might last?
is it worth it?
also, parts.. easy to find?
mechanics that know the car.. easy to find?
.. would the suspension be able to handle new tires, or would i be looking for special tires?
.. sorry to sound so new, just dont know where else to go to get the info.
thanks all,
- matt.
toronto, canada
May 2nd, 2007, 05:06 AM
#2
Past Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,025
Matt,
First, welcome to our site. I strongly recommend that you see the car in person before you consider buying. Second, it would be worth it to bring a mechanic along to help you evaluate the condition of the car since you don't feel comfortable doing that. There are enough similarities and common conditions to look for in older cars that he wouldn't have to be a specialist in Oldsmobiles to give you some good guidance. Things like body condition, steering and suspension wear, engine condition, safety items like brakes and steering, etc can be evaluated on a general basis and be included in the overall decision whether to buy or not. You should record the VIN and verify the originality of the engine and drivetrain to the car (ie, numbers matching) as I guess you would want to ensure that. Someone here can decode that for you if you post it. After that, comparing that car to similar year, model and make cars for sale on the internet and other sources is a good way to get an idea of comparitive market prices although buying an older car is very subjective and relative to things like the area you are in. I am trying to be general in my comments because I don't think being specific and saying "yes buy it at any cost becuase it is an Olds and any Olds should be saved" is fair or converseley "I only paid $1500 American for my '71 Cutlass back in 1978 so $10,900 is too much" would be comparing apples to oranges. If you can get some pictures of it during your personal inspection of the car that would help us help you evaluate it. Finally, you don't have to worry about using newer radial tires on the car, they would not endager the safety of the car or cause damage to the suspension (I assume you are not going to race this in a Rally or something). Good luck
.
First, welcome to our site. I strongly recommend that you see the car in person before you consider buying. Second, it would be worth it to bring a mechanic along to help you evaluate the condition of the car since you don't feel comfortable doing that. There are enough similarities and common conditions to look for in older cars that he wouldn't have to be a specialist in Oldsmobiles to give you some good guidance. Things like body condition, steering and suspension wear, engine condition, safety items like brakes and steering, etc can be evaluated on a general basis and be included in the overall decision whether to buy or not. You should record the VIN and verify the originality of the engine and drivetrain to the car (ie, numbers matching) as I guess you would want to ensure that. Someone here can decode that for you if you post it. After that, comparing that car to similar year, model and make cars for sale on the internet and other sources is a good way to get an idea of comparitive market prices although buying an older car is very subjective and relative to things like the area you are in. I am trying to be general in my comments because I don't think being specific and saying "yes buy it at any cost becuase it is an Olds and any Olds should be saved" is fair or converseley "I only paid $1500 American for my '71 Cutlass back in 1978 so $10,900 is too much" would be comparing apples to oranges. If you can get some pictures of it during your personal inspection of the car that would help us help you evaluate it. Finally, you don't have to worry about using newer radial tires on the car, they would not endager the safety of the car or cause damage to the suspension (I assume you are not going to race this in a Rally or something). Good luck
.
May 2nd, 2007, 08:44 AM
#3
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,357
First, what type of parts are you looking for? All chassis and suspension parts are the same as Chevelle, so those are easy. Olds engine parts are available, but high-perf stuff is not as readily available as Chevy. Most repro interior parts are available. Sheet metal for a 69 is limited.
As for mechanics, I've found that most mechanics these days only know how to replace parts as directed by the trouble codes in the computer. That's a sad commentary on the profession.
You should be aware of the common rust locations for these cars. Behind the front and back wheel openings is a primary place, but the worst is the pinchweld areas around the windshield and back windows, particularly if the car has a vinyl top. The problem is that leaves, dirt, and debris collects behind the chrome trim around the glass and retains water that leads to rust. This is very difficult to repair properly. Look for signs of water leakage on the rear package shelf. Also look for creeping rust on the cowl under the base of the windshield. Buyers often claim this is just the glass needing to be resealed, but usually it is much worse. Also beware of any car with silicone sealer in these areas.
As for mechanics, I've found that most mechanics these days only know how to replace parts as directed by the trouble codes in the computer. That's a sad commentary on the profession.
You should be aware of the common rust locations for these cars. Behind the front and back wheel openings is a primary place, but the worst is the pinchweld areas around the windshield and back windows, particularly if the car has a vinyl top. The problem is that leaves, dirt, and debris collects behind the chrome trim around the glass and retains water that leads to rust. This is very difficult to repair properly. Look for signs of water leakage on the rear package shelf. Also look for creeping rust on the cowl under the base of the windshield. Buyers often claim this is just the glass needing to be resealed, but usually it is much worse. Also beware of any car with silicone sealer in these areas.
May 2nd, 2007, 10:58 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 2
thanks guys,
i'll try and make time to go check it out.. and get back to you shortly thereafter.
http://www.trader.ca/powerpage/detai...6&adid=6025178
thanks again,
- matt.
i'll try and make time to go check it out.. and get back to you shortly thereafter.
http://www.trader.ca/powerpage/detai...6&adid=6025178
thanks again,
- matt.
May 2nd, 2007, 01:25 PM
#5
Past Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,025
Joe, thanks for helping with some specifics. I just was wary to comment as I haven't owned a Cutlass since........1978! Once you mention those points they come to my mind immidiately and I agree completely.
edit: BTW, I looked at the picture in the link. Nice looking car from the picture anyway. Good that it isn't a vinyl top, I think those are trouble, lots of rust underneath usually. The paint looks in pretty good shape, I don't think that is an original color although picture color accuracy can be way off on the internet.
edit: BTW, I looked at the picture in the link. Nice looking car from the picture anyway. Good that it isn't a vinyl top, I think those are trouble, lots of rust underneath usually. The paint looks in pretty good shape, I don't think that is an original color although picture color accuracy can be way off on the internet.
May 2nd, 2007, 02:01 PM
#6
Senior Moment
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 260
Ask the seller what the first 3 numbers in the vin are, he's selling this a Cutlass Supreme, but it looks like Cutlass S badge on the fender.
The first three for a supreme should be 342
The first three for a cutlass V8 would be 338
Its a sharp looking car, I like the color.
As for what Joe said about the window leaks and the rear package shelf, that is very true. My rear window had leaked in the bottom right corner, the package shelf was warped and rotted. When I removed the rear window and started going to town on the rust bubbles where the window seals, I found the whole sealing surface pitted with some pinholes rusted through. I spent some time reparing it, but it was worse then it looked with the window still in it.
Good Luck!
The first three for a supreme should be 342
The first three for a cutlass V8 would be 338
Its a sharp looking car, I like the color.
As for what Joe said about the window leaks and the rear package shelf, that is very true. My rear window had leaked in the bottom right corner, the package shelf was warped and rotted. When I removed the rear window and started going to town on the rust bubbles where the window seals, I found the whole sealing surface pitted with some pinholes rusted through. I spent some time reparing it, but it was worse then it looked with the window still in it.
Good Luck!
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