engine brackets
June 24th, 2011, 07:43 PM
#2
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 69
After a good metal cleanup and prep, I have used Rust-Oleum high temp "Bar-B-Que Black" as a base coat. Also, this R-O color is not bad as the exposed finish. Let it cure thoroughly and finish with one of the semi-flat, underhood or chassis black finishes available from Eastwood, Fusick or........
June 24th, 2011, 08:08 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 161
After a good metal cleanup and prep, I have used Rust-Oleum high temp "Bar-B-Que Black" as a base coat. Also, this R-O color is not bad as the exposed finish. Let it cure thoroughly and finish with one of the semi-flat, underhood or chassis black finishes available from Eastwood, Fusick or........
June 24th, 2011, 08:51 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,150
Depends on how nice you want the final product to look......
>In a perfect world you would have them stripped to bare metal and rust free...which likely means beadblasting them. Very time consuming and they need to be pretty much oil/grease free before they get blasted (unless whoever is blasting them doesn't care about getting oil and grease in their blast media).
>Sanding.....it will work and what you want to do is feather out any chipped areas so they don't show up in your final paint.
>Cleaning....the biggest thing to be concerned about is getting the oils and grease off of them. This will make an otherwise nice job look terrible (leaving oil, etc on them). I'm talking multiple cleanings....one before sanding or blasting and again before paint (if you only sand them). You could start with some sort of degreaser but make sure it doesn't also make a mess of the old paint on there if you are only planning on sanding them. Don't use lacquer thinner unless you plan to strip them to bare metal. HOT water, Dawn dishwashing detergent, some light Scotchbrite pads or SOS pads...anything to really get the dirt/oils off.
>Primer....you can prime them but if you feather any chipped areas real well you probably don't need to as the Rustoleum, etc is made to go over bare metal.
>You could also call around to machine shops and see if any of them will clean them for you....they may have some sort of hot tank and/or one of the ovens that bakes the old paint and oils off the metal. They typically put them into a steel shot cabinet after that to clean off the dried out/baked residue.
>You can also use a good paint stripper gel/paste but this stuff usually takes a couple applications and gets to be a real mess. Does nothing to rust either.
>Wire wheels...be careful...some of these can leave a pattern in the metal that looks pretty bad.
Exactly which bracket assemblies are you doing??? All the engine brackets?? PSteering, Alternator, AC....any others.
What year car??
>In a perfect world you would have them stripped to bare metal and rust free...which likely means beadblasting them. Very time consuming and they need to be pretty much oil/grease free before they get blasted (unless whoever is blasting them doesn't care about getting oil and grease in their blast media).
>Sanding.....it will work and what you want to do is feather out any chipped areas so they don't show up in your final paint.
>Cleaning....the biggest thing to be concerned about is getting the oils and grease off of them. This will make an otherwise nice job look terrible (leaving oil, etc on them). I'm talking multiple cleanings....one before sanding or blasting and again before paint (if you only sand them). You could start with some sort of degreaser but make sure it doesn't also make a mess of the old paint on there if you are only planning on sanding them. Don't use lacquer thinner unless you plan to strip them to bare metal. HOT water, Dawn dishwashing detergent, some light Scotchbrite pads or SOS pads...anything to really get the dirt/oils off.
>Primer....you can prime them but if you feather any chipped areas real well you probably don't need to as the Rustoleum, etc is made to go over bare metal.
>You could also call around to machine shops and see if any of them will clean them for you....they may have some sort of hot tank and/or one of the ovens that bakes the old paint and oils off the metal. They typically put them into a steel shot cabinet after that to clean off the dried out/baked residue.
>You can also use a good paint stripper gel/paste but this stuff usually takes a couple applications and gets to be a real mess. Does nothing to rust either.
>Wire wheels...be careful...some of these can leave a pattern in the metal that looks pretty bad.
Exactly which bracket assemblies are you doing??? All the engine brackets?? PSteering, Alternator, AC....any others.
What year car??
Last edited by 70Post; June 24th, 2011 at 08:53 PM.
June 24th, 2011, 10:23 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 161
Depends on how nice you want the final product to look......
>In a perfect world you would have them stripped to bare metal and rust free...which likely means beadblasting them. Very time consuming and they need to be pretty much oil/grease free before they get blasted (unless whoever is blasting them doesn't care about getting oil and grease in their blast media).
>Sanding.....it will work and what you want to do is feather out any chipped areas so they don't show up in your final paint.
>Cleaning....the biggest thing to be concerned about is getting the oils and grease off of them. This will make an otherwise nice job look terrible (leaving oil, etc on them). I'm talking multiple cleanings....one before sanding or blasting and again before paint (if you only sand them). You could start with some sort of degreaser but make sure it doesn't also make a mess of the old paint on there if you are only planning on sanding them. Don't use lacquer thinner unless you plan to strip them to bare metal. HOT water, Dawn dishwashing detergent, some light Scotchbrite pads or SOS pads...anything to really get the dirt/oils off.
>Primer....you can prime them but if you feather any chipped areas real well you probably don't need to as the Rustoleum, etc is made to go over bare metal.
>You could also call around to machine shops and see if any of them will clean them for you....they may have some sort of hot tank and/or one of the ovens that bakes the old paint and oils off the metal. They typically put them into a steel shot cabinet after that to clean off the dried out/baked residue.
>You can also use a good paint stripper gel/paste but this stuff usually takes a couple applications and gets to be a real mess. Does nothing to rust either.
>Wire wheels...be careful...some of these can leave a pattern in the metal that looks pretty bad.
Exactly which bracket assemblies are you doing??? All the engine brackets?? PSteering, Alternator, AC....any others.
What year car??
>In a perfect world you would have them stripped to bare metal and rust free...which likely means beadblasting them. Very time consuming and they need to be pretty much oil/grease free before they get blasted (unless whoever is blasting them doesn't care about getting oil and grease in their blast media).
>Sanding.....it will work and what you want to do is feather out any chipped areas so they don't show up in your final paint.
>Cleaning....the biggest thing to be concerned about is getting the oils and grease off of them. This will make an otherwise nice job look terrible (leaving oil, etc on them). I'm talking multiple cleanings....one before sanding or blasting and again before paint (if you only sand them). You could start with some sort of degreaser but make sure it doesn't also make a mess of the old paint on there if you are only planning on sanding them. Don't use lacquer thinner unless you plan to strip them to bare metal. HOT water, Dawn dishwashing detergent, some light Scotchbrite pads or SOS pads...anything to really get the dirt/oils off.
>Primer....you can prime them but if you feather any chipped areas real well you probably don't need to as the Rustoleum, etc is made to go over bare metal.
>You could also call around to machine shops and see if any of them will clean them for you....they may have some sort of hot tank and/or one of the ovens that bakes the old paint and oils off the metal. They typically put them into a steel shot cabinet after that to clean off the dried out/baked residue.
>You can also use a good paint stripper gel/paste but this stuff usually takes a couple applications and gets to be a real mess. Does nothing to rust either.
>Wire wheels...be careful...some of these can leave a pattern in the metal that looks pretty bad.
Exactly which bracket assemblies are you doing??? All the engine brackets?? PSteering, Alternator, AC....any others.
What year car??
June 24th, 2011, 10:51 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,150
Go with whatever primer is made for the paint you use...ie-Rustoleum primer for Rustoleum paint.
Don't load on the primer....just a couple medium coats. You gain nothing by loading on a bunch of primer.
Use a Satin Black type black. May be the same thing as SemiFlat black. I think you will find some variation between brands in terms of what gloss level their satin blacks have. If you prefer more of a hint of gloss then go with a Semi Gloss black. Again, it'll vary by brand so you may have to experiment with a couple brands. Forget gloss black for these brackets...too shiny and shows EVERY defect and scratches later on.
Brands of paint - if you are trying to keep the costs under control you really can't go wrong with a locally purchased spray can brand. Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. A Krylon SemiFlat black coating (or Rustoleum) will work fine on those brackets and will cost you a lot less than the mail order stuff. Durability will be the same IMO.
I'd take it easy with a wire brush..especially if you are using it on a air die grinder or some other high speed tool (given the choice I wouldn't use a wire wheel). Even on an ordinary electric drill you can scar the metal. These brackets have their own unique surface detail from when they were stamped and, IMO, it looks odd to see evidence of that and then also see a bunch of heavy scarring/scratching where someone used a wire wheel on the metal. If you are removing rust with a wire wheel then I can almost guarantee you that you will end up scarring the metal surface.
You can get a rust neutralizer from someplace like Home Depot, etc and treat the bare metal areas where you have small spots of residual rust.
CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN is the word (really can't overemphasize this point)...I mean clean when you spray on the paint. Don't touch with bare hands. You can even use something as simple as rubbing alcohol to give them a final wipedown before painting (then blow off or wipe off with a clean fine brush any paper towel residue and let the alcohol evaporate thoroughly). You might also get a can of a wax and grease remover from O'Reilly's, etc. Lacquer thinner is not good for your final cleaning..avoid it. Read the instructions on the can...you usually need one towel to wipe on the wax and grease remover and then another dry towel to wipe off the wet surface. If you don't then you are pretty much defeating the whole purpose/method of using it.
Sanding with heavy grit paper...if you use stuff like 40-120 grit you may also leave sanding scratches in the metal. You might consider final sanding with 240 or 320. Don't press hard if you are using the more aggressive grit papers as you will only scratch the metal deeply (similar to wire wheel effect).
You can achieve factory like (and better) results with spray cans if you take your time and get the parts REALLY oil/grease free.
Don't load on the primer....just a couple medium coats. You gain nothing by loading on a bunch of primer.
Use a Satin Black type black. May be the same thing as SemiFlat black. I think you will find some variation between brands in terms of what gloss level their satin blacks have. If you prefer more of a hint of gloss then go with a Semi Gloss black. Again, it'll vary by brand so you may have to experiment with a couple brands. Forget gloss black for these brackets...too shiny and shows EVERY defect and scratches later on.
Brands of paint - if you are trying to keep the costs under control you really can't go wrong with a locally purchased spray can brand. Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. A Krylon SemiFlat black coating (or Rustoleum) will work fine on those brackets and will cost you a lot less than the mail order stuff. Durability will be the same IMO.
I'd take it easy with a wire brush..especially if you are using it on a air die grinder or some other high speed tool (given the choice I wouldn't use a wire wheel). Even on an ordinary electric drill you can scar the metal. These brackets have their own unique surface detail from when they were stamped and, IMO, it looks odd to see evidence of that and then also see a bunch of heavy scarring/scratching where someone used a wire wheel on the metal. If you are removing rust with a wire wheel then I can almost guarantee you that you will end up scarring the metal surface.
You can get a rust neutralizer from someplace like Home Depot, etc and treat the bare metal areas where you have small spots of residual rust.
CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN is the word (really can't overemphasize this point)...I mean clean when you spray on the paint. Don't touch with bare hands. You can even use something as simple as rubbing alcohol to give them a final wipedown before painting (then blow off or wipe off with a clean fine brush any paper towel residue and let the alcohol evaporate thoroughly). You might also get a can of a wax and grease remover from O'Reilly's, etc. Lacquer thinner is not good for your final cleaning..avoid it. Read the instructions on the can...you usually need one towel to wipe on the wax and grease remover and then another dry towel to wipe off the wet surface. If you don't then you are pretty much defeating the whole purpose/method of using it.
Sanding with heavy grit paper...if you use stuff like 40-120 grit you may also leave sanding scratches in the metal. You might consider final sanding with 240 or 320. Don't press hard if you are using the more aggressive grit papers as you will only scratch the metal deeply (similar to wire wheel effect).
You can achieve factory like (and better) results with spray cans if you take your time and get the parts REALLY oil/grease free.
Last edited by 70Post; June 24th, 2011 at 11:02 PM.
June 24th, 2011, 11:41 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 161
Go with whatever primer is made for the paint you use...ie-Rustoleum primer for Rustoleum paint.
Don't load on the primer....just a couple medium coats. You gain nothing by loading on a bunch of primer.
Use a Satin Black type black. May be the same thing as SemiFlat black. I think you will find some variation between brands in terms of what gloss level their satin blacks have. If you prefer more of a hint of gloss then go with a Semi Gloss black. Again, it'll vary by brand so you may have to experiment with a couple brands. Forget gloss black for these brackets...too shiny and shows EVERY defect and scratches later on.
Brands of paint - if you are trying to keep the costs under control you really can't go wrong with a locally purchased spray can brand. Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. A Krylon SemiFlat black coating (or Rustoleum) will work fine on those brackets and will cost you a lot less than the mail order stuff. Durability will be the same IMO.
I'd take it easy with a wire brush..especially if you are using it on a air die grinder or some other high speed tool (given the choice I wouldn't use a wire wheel). Even on an ordinary electric drill you can scar the metal. These brackets have their own unique surface detail from when they were stamped and, IMO, it looks odd to see evidence of that and then also see a bunch of heavy scarring/scratching where someone used a wire wheel on the metal. If you are removing rust with a wire wheel then I can almost guarantee you that you will end up scarring the metal surface.
You can get a rust neutralizer from someplace like Home Depot, etc and treat the bare metal areas where you have small spots of residual rust.
CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN is the word (really can't overemphasize this point)...I mean clean when you spray on the paint. Don't touch with bare hands. You can even use something as simple as rubbing alcohol to give them a final wipedown before painting (then blow off or wipe off with a clean fine brush any paper towel residue and let the alcohol evaporate thoroughly). You might also get a can of a wax and grease remover from O'Reilly's, etc. Lacquer thinner is not good for your final cleaning..avoid it. Read the instructions on the can...you usually need one towel to wipe on the wax and grease remover and then another dry towel to wipe off the wet surface. If you don't then you are pretty much defeating the whole purpose/method of using it.
Sanding with heavy grit paper...if you use stuff like 40-120 grit you may also leave sanding scratches in the metal. You might consider final sanding with 240 or 320. Don't press hard if you are using the more aggressive grit papers as you will only scratch the metal deeply (similar to wire wheel effect).
You can achieve factory like (and better) results with spray cans if you take your time and get the parts REALLY oil/grease free.
Don't load on the primer....just a couple medium coats. You gain nothing by loading on a bunch of primer.
Use a Satin Black type black. May be the same thing as SemiFlat black. I think you will find some variation between brands in terms of what gloss level their satin blacks have. If you prefer more of a hint of gloss then go with a Semi Gloss black. Again, it'll vary by brand so you may have to experiment with a couple brands. Forget gloss black for these brackets...too shiny and shows EVERY defect and scratches later on.
Brands of paint - if you are trying to keep the costs under control you really can't go wrong with a locally purchased spray can brand. Krylon, Rustoleum, etc. A Krylon SemiFlat black coating (or Rustoleum) will work fine on those brackets and will cost you a lot less than the mail order stuff. Durability will be the same IMO.
I'd take it easy with a wire brush..especially if you are using it on a air die grinder or some other high speed tool (given the choice I wouldn't use a wire wheel). Even on an ordinary electric drill you can scar the metal. These brackets have their own unique surface detail from when they were stamped and, IMO, it looks odd to see evidence of that and then also see a bunch of heavy scarring/scratching where someone used a wire wheel on the metal. If you are removing rust with a wire wheel then I can almost guarantee you that you will end up scarring the metal surface.
You can get a rust neutralizer from someplace like Home Depot, etc and treat the bare metal areas where you have small spots of residual rust.
CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN is the word (really can't overemphasize this point)...I mean clean when you spray on the paint. Don't touch with bare hands. You can even use something as simple as rubbing alcohol to give them a final wipedown before painting (then blow off or wipe off with a clean fine brush any paper towel residue and let the alcohol evaporate thoroughly). You might also get a can of a wax and grease remover from O'Reilly's, etc. Lacquer thinner is not good for your final cleaning..avoid it. Read the instructions on the can...you usually need one towel to wipe on the wax and grease remover and then another dry towel to wipe off the wet surface. If you don't then you are pretty much defeating the whole purpose/method of using it.
Sanding with heavy grit paper...if you use stuff like 40-120 grit you may also leave sanding scratches in the metal. You might consider final sanding with 240 or 320. Don't press hard if you are using the more aggressive grit papers as you will only scratch the metal deeply (similar to wire wheel effect).
You can achieve factory like (and better) results with spray cans if you take your time and get the parts REALLY oil/grease free.
-ray
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