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I don't know if the 72 came with those mirrors stock? For the 70 it's looking like new holes for the passenger side and possibly no new holes for the driver's side(fill in extra holes) but will need to cut the hole in the door panel for mounting the adjustable stick for the mirror(no more getting pulled over). I noticed the 72 was riveted in possibly when the new paint job was done for my brother.
I had me a close call awhile back with start up amperage vs wire size and relay sizing for my aftermarket electric fans.
They say 24.8amps per fan but it was more like 50amps per fan after double checking with a clamp around amp meter. They only sold me 25amp relays and 14ga wire.
Redesigning things is always fun! First time I ever seen this!
Personally I think it was just a loose connection in a new factory style plastic connector that caused the wire to get hot and melted the insulation where one of the hots touched the ground wire.
I removed both plastic connectors and just used some wire nuts with no issues with the wire getting hot on touch so far.
Last edited by Letsrunum; Mar 1, 2021 at 08:09 AM.
I had me a close call awhile back with start up amperage vs wire size and relay sizing for my aftermarket electric fans.
They say 24.8amps per fan but it was more like 50amps per fan after double checking with a clamp around amp meter. They only sold me 25amp relays and 14ga wire.
Redesigning things is always fun! First time I ever seen this!
Admittedly, I don't much about general usage electric automobile fans on classic vehicles, but 50A per fan is an enormous amount of amperage even if it's only instantaneous startup amperage. You'd need a minimum of 10 AWG wire and possibly 8 AWG.
I'm curious why you need two electric fans with this much draw?
Almost done. I need to buy so more 6ga red for the power wire on top of the fuse box. 12ga wire from fans to the relays and then to the fuse box with 30amp fuses. 40amp relays is all they had for now but I can order larger relays.
I need to tighten motor mounts and check transmission mount I seen before I try a test drive in hot weather. Relay temp with hand felt fine idling for awhile.
Last edited by Letsrunum; Aug 3, 2020 at 12:38 PM.
Admittedly, I don't much about general usage electric automobile fans on classic vehicles, but 50A per fan is an enormous amount of amperage even if it's only instantaneous startup amperage. You'd need a minimum of 10 AWG wire and possibly 8 AWG.
I'm curious why you need two electric fans with this much draw?
My brother said the 72 always had heating problems. His also had the ac working where I haven't got that far yet on the 70 model.
Almost done. I need to buy so more 6ga red for the power wire on top of the fuse box. 12ga wire from fans to the relays and then to the fuse box with 30amp fuses. 40amp relays is all they had for now but I can order larger relays.
I need to tighten motor mounts and check transmission mount I seen before I try a test drive in hot weather. Relay temp with hand felt fine idling for awhile.
In accordance with US electrical codes the max current for circuits utilizing 12 gauge wire is 20 Amps. However, 12 gauge copper wire is capable of handling much higher currents. There is something called fusing current, the current at which a wire will melt. For 12 gauge copper it is about 235 Amps.
I knew 10ga was good to 30amps to match my 30amp fuses so I thinking of dropping the fuse size down to 20amps so my wire wouldn't melt before my fuse pops.
You guys think I should change fuse size or go bigger on wire size?
I don’t what fuse(s) you’re referring to, but....you should employ in-line fuses rated ~2.5A - 5A below the correct rated capacity of your appropriately configured wire size, IMO.
I don’t what fuse(s) you’re referring to, but....you should employ in-line fuses rated ~2.5A - 5A below the correct rated capacity of your appropriately configured wire size, IMO.
It has 30amp fuses in the fuse box going to each fan. Sounds like dropping to 15amp fuses then. It was less than 1amp per fan after start up. Both fans together was 1.6amps.
I don’t what fuse(s) you’re referring to, but....you should employ in-line fuses rated ~2.5A - 5A below the correct rated capacity of your appropriately configured wire size, IMO.
Inline fuse before the relays is a good idea. I got to fix one of the connectors not making good contact and making the wire hot.
Motor mounts and transmission mount was good. They must be breaking in. I think the flywheel bolts are loose again though. I remember that knocking sound coming from the 72 with that same transmission and flywheel that I would tighten up from time to time. I will check it when things cool off. Do you guys use blue loctite on stubborn bolts like that?
Why are you doing all these mods to a car that needs extensive bodywork? You either need to start with a better car or do the bodywork first or just get it running stock and enjoy it as a beater.
Why are you doing all these mods to a car that needs extensive bodywork? You either need to start with a better car or do the bodywork first or just get it running stock and enjoy it as a beater.
Everything was in great shape with the 72 cutlass when I bought all the mods before the tree fell on it. I did buy a 1970 cutlass that was in way better shape.
Last edited by Letsrunum; Aug 8, 2020 at 09:42 PM.
Inline fuse before the relays is a good idea. I got to fix one of the connectors not making good contact and making the wire hot.
Motor mounts and transmission mount was good. They must be breaking in. I think the flywheel bolts are loose again though. I remember that knocking sound coming from the 72 with that same transmission and flywheel that I would tighten up from time to time. I will check it when things cool off. Do you guys use blue loctite on stubborn bolts like that?
Originally Posted by Letsrunum
Inline fuse before the relays is a good idea. I got to fix one of the connectors not making good contact and making the wire hot.
Motor mounts and transmission mount was good. They must be breaking in. I think the flywheel bolts are loose again though. I remember that knocking sound coming from the 72 with that same transmission and flywheel that I would tighten up from time to time. I will check it when things cool off. Do you guys use blue loctite on stubborn bolts like that?
It wasn't the flywheel I must have already did it and didn't remember doing it. It could be the headers touching since they were a tight fit. More hp this time around with 1000mi after rebuilding the motor. I will look around some more when I got the time.
I went through it besides taking the body off. Body mounts were still in good shape. PST Stage III polygraphite super kit in the pictures above. It was a real nice upgrade. A few more adjustments I want to do before tackling the body work.
Last edited by Letsrunum; Aug 8, 2020 at 10:40 PM.
It wasn't the flywheel I must have already did it and didn't remember doing it. It could be the headers touching since they were a tight fit. More hp this time around with 1000mi after rebuilding the motor. I will look around some more when I got the time.
I went through it besides taking the body off. Body mounts were still in good shape. PST Stage III polygraphite super kit in the pictures above. It was a real nice upgrade. A few more adjustments I want to do before tackling the body work.
It ended up being the timing was out. It has the edelbrock 750cfm (1411) carb on it now, running smooth.
Anybody know where I can order a good set of chrome trim molding for the rear back glass window to install on my 1970 cutlass supreme? Has to fit the shorter back glass window from the "supreme" model and not the longer back glass from the "S" model
It ended up being the timing was out. It has the edelbrock 750cfm (1411) carb on it now, running smooth.
Anybody know where I can order a good set of chrome trim molding for the rear back glass window to install on my 1970 cutlass supreme? Has to fit the shorter back glass window from the "supreme" model and not the longer back glass from the "S" model
I found a set of used oem parts and the glass about 2hrs away from an auto savage yard.
Dazed and confused
Alright, alright, alright We got 4:11 Posi-trac out back, 750 double pumper, Edelbrock intake, bored over 30, 11 to 1 pop-up pistons, turbo-jet 390 horsepower. We're talkin' some ****in' muscle.
