Chgange to Fast Ratio Steering Gear

Old Apr 7, 2015 | 10:28 AM
  #41  
garys 68&72's Avatar
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You can reference a 1980 chevy C10 pickup. That will come up with the Dorman 31011 I used or the Lares 200.
One note on the Lares vs Dorman. I found the Dorman to be about 2x the price of the Lares. On most things I would have bought the cheaper one, but for a steering coupler, I'll spend the extra $20.


Originally Posted by ELY442
Lares 212 or 211? I read some threads here and they use Lares 200 or 202. Which one to use?
Old Apr 7, 2015 | 01:49 PM
  #42  
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I know you guys are adamant about the JGC box mod and for good reason its a big improvement, we're all on the same page upgrading to a FR box works good and provides better feel. I was gonna go that way initially too, but heres why i didnt

used JGC box ~$50
rag Joint ~$50
adapters to fit an SAE hose in a metric box or new metric hose in an SAE application~$20-$50

or rebuilt lares box lifetime warenty from Rockauto w new rag joint included that works w original hose(s) and doesn't add additional adapters or complexity $~180

I have no interests in lares or rockauto but I do like a good value and for the ~$30-50 more the rebuilt box w lifetime warrenty is worth it.

Last edited by RetroRanger; Apr 7, 2015 at 07:38 PM.
Old Apr 7, 2015 | 05:44 PM
  #43  
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Looks like a quick steer box of your choice and added caster is the trick. No more land-yacht. I dislike the mush bucket feel of my steering and even though working properly I have no feeling of the road it's like a driving simulator wheel.

Some of the improved physics going on here comes from the ratio change which by itself may not be enough? Adding more camber adds drag or load to the wheel as well more powerful "snap to center" when you release the wheel turning. There was something about Camero IROC boxes that are desirable for this magic ratio? I think any good combo of box/camber will take the way-over-power-assisted feel out. It's awful but they thought it was cool yachting on the couch in the day.
Old Apr 7, 2015 | 06:36 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by garys 68&72
You can reference a 1980 chevy C10 pickup. That will come up with the Dorman 31011 I used or the Lares 200.
One note on the Lares vs Dorman. I found the Dorman to be about 2x the price of the Lares. On most things I would have bought the cheaper one, but for a steering coupler, I'll spend the extra $20.
The Lares 200 and the Dorman 31011 is the same thing?
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 06:26 AM
  #45  
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I used the Dorman, bought it locally so I could check fit.
But if you search for that application (ebay, rock auto, etc), you'll see both listed. The Lares is about $20 cheaper, which screams Chinese knockoff to me. I've had too many bad experiences with Chinese parts, and steering is one place I don't want to chance it.


Originally Posted by ELY442
The Lares 200 and the Dorman 31011 is the same thing?

Last edited by garys 68&72; Apr 8, 2015 at 06:28 AM.
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 06:56 AM
  #46  
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Is there a consensus on how much positive camber to add for a 72?
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 10:13 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by brown7373
Is there a consensus on how much positive camber to add for a 72?
Do you mean positive Caster?
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 11:30 AM
  #48  
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I mistyped that. Yes, how much positive CASTER?
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 12:55 PM
  #49  
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The amount of caster will be limited by the number of shims you can fit on the A-frame bolts. I would run the most positive caster as you can; probably around 2 degrees. If you have the Moog offset shafts on your UCAs you can get a little more.
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 03:16 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by brown7373
I mistyped that. Yes, how much positive CASTER?
I learned all about Jeep boxes with my 67. It is a system, and if you don't address the pump volume and pressure, you won't like the way the steering feels. My pump is out at Lee's right now, and he's rebuilding it to match my Jeep steering box and alignment specs. Steered like a tank without redoing the pump.
Tim
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 03:22 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by tmaleck
I learned all about Jeep boxes with my 67. It is a system, and if you don't address the pump volume and pressure, you won't like the way the steering feels. My pump is out at Lee's right now, and he's rebuilding it to match my Jeep steering box and alignment specs. Steered like a tank without redoing the pump.
Tim
I was thinking about giving Lee's my gearbox to change it over to a quick ratio. How much does it cost to have Lee's rebuild your gearbox? Must be expensive to ship it because its heavy.
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 03:35 PM
  #52  
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According the Chevelle Thread, the pressure issue is for pre-1970 cars which only had 950 lbs. pressure. The 1970 and up produce 1450 lbs./ and it is not an issue.




Originally Posted by tmaleck
I learned all about Jeep boxes with my 67. It is a system, and if you don't address the pump volume and pressure, you won't like the way the steering feels. My pump is out at Lee's right now, and he's rebuilding it to match my Jeep steering box and alignment specs. Steered like a tank without redoing the pump.
Tim
Old Apr 8, 2015 | 04:23 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by brown7373
According the Chevelle Thread, the pressure issue is for pre-1970 cars which only had 950 lbs. pressure. The 1970 and up produce 1450 lbs./ and it is not an issue.
The pressure is not a characteristic of the pump - it's a characteristic of the relief valve, which is essentially the "nut" or fitting that you screw the pressure hose into.

If you've got a pre-'70 pump, all you need to do is unscrew one of these from a later pump while you are at the junkyard.
An added bonus is that if you want to use later O-ring fittings on your car, you can take one from a later pump and it will have an O-ring connection.



- Eric
Old Apr 9, 2015 | 09:37 AM
  #54  
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New Quick Ratio

AGR in Fort Worth makes a new 12 to 1 compatible with old style fittings. JEGS sells them, normally for less than 350.
Old Apr 9, 2015 | 11:56 AM
  #55  
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My Lars pump is exactly the same housing as my old one, same casting numbers. Its not Chinese. I cant imagine anyone would make new castings as there are tons of these out there.
Old Apr 10, 2015 | 05:20 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by cdrod
Brown:
Just to clarify my previous post. I had my '72 gear box rebuilt and the shop converted it from a 16:1 variable ratio to a 12:1 fixed ratio. I did this on a '71 Cutlass I built years ago and the difference was amazing. With the old gear the car seemed sloppy and loose at the center (going straight) but it gradually tightened up the farther I turned the wheel. Some of the sloppiness was due to worn out parts, but a lot of it was inherent in the design of the variable ratio gear box which I was told was closer to 20:1 in the middle range and gradually increased to 16:1 at the extremes. With the fixed 12:1 gear my car was much more responsive (without the 20:1 ratio in the middle) without being "twitchy" and the steering was more predictable as well because the fixed ratio was consistent throughout the full travel of the gear box. I hope this helps.

Rodney
Where did you have it rebuilt? Approx what did this cost? I've been reading through this thread, and after 4 new tires, and a complete new front suspension last year on the olds, this is like the last thing left, so I might as well. It rather rebuild the original, if the cost is about the same.
Old Apr 10, 2015 | 06:15 AM
  #57  
cdrod's Avatar
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Gear rebuilder

I used Adco in Houston, TX 713-681-1446, ask for Neal. A lot of guys use Powersteering.com, but Neal is about $100 less and does a good job. I had Neal rebuild my pump at the same time because my car had been sitting in Texas cow pasture for about 10 years and I didn't know if it was any good. I think I paid $350 for the gear conversion and pump rebuild.
Here's a pic.



I painted the cover bolts, Neal just sprays some machine gray paint on the whole box.
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Old Apr 10, 2015 | 02:59 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by White_Knuckles
Looks like a quick steer box of your choice and added caster is the trick. No more land-yacht. I dislike the mush bucket feel of my steering and even though working properly I have no feeling of the road it's like a driving simulator wheel.

Some of the improved physics going on here comes from the ratio change which by itself may not be enough? Adding more camber adds drag or load to the wheel as well more powerful "snap to center" when you release the wheel turning. There was something about Camero IROC boxes that are desirable for this magic ratio? I think any good combo of box/camber will take the way-over-power-assisted feel out. It's awful but they thought it was cool yachting on the couch in the day.
Positive caster won't add drag,the steering effort goes up because there is more mechanical multiplication of the steering shaft, and the T-bar inside the Jeep box that also increases the effort.

Tim
Old Apr 10, 2015 | 05:58 PM
  #59  
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From: Spokane Washington
Interesting Tim. Thanks for filling in the voodoo that gives you this "heavier" feel. I didn't know why it works but your explanation makes sense. I meant wheel load or resistance not "drag". I wondered if a large pulley on the pump may load that baby down? Now I'm thinking no as a poster demonstrated pressure may be regulated but the pump pressure doesn't effect steering wheel load or drag.

This thread should continue with more success stories detailed. I think many of us want a better steering feel? I sure have trouble adapting to the couch yacht hopping over from my daily driver. I'm fine after a few minutes but that first few miles are strange indeed.
Old Apr 14, 2015 | 12:05 PM
  #60  
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What radio did you have them change it to? Are you happy with it?

Originally Posted by cdrod
I used Adco in Houston, TX 713-681-1446, ask for Neal. A lot of guys use Powersteering.com, but Neal is about $100 less and does a good job. I had Neal rebuild my pump at the same time because my car had been sitting in Texas cow pasture for about 10 years and I didn't know if it was any good. I think I paid $350 for the gear conversion and pump rebuild.
Here's a pic.



I painted the cover bolts, Neal just sprays some machine gray paint on the whole box.
Old Apr 14, 2015 | 01:56 PM
  #61  
cdrod's Avatar
Rodney
 
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From: Houston, TX
I think they changed to a 12.7:1 ratio. I'm still building this car so I haven't driven it yet. But I did this conversion to a previous build (the car in my avatar pic) and it was just right for a daily driver; not too twitchy and consistent response from lock to lock. With the original variable ratio gear, the car was sloppy in the middle and as you turned the wheel the ratio got quicker. I hated this because it was so un responsive and unpredictable.
Old Apr 29, 2015 | 06:13 PM
  #62  
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From: New Jersey
Hey all, just switched out my steering gear for a rebuilt lares 972 fast ratio box. Everything bolt on, no issues. Only had a chance to drive a few miles. Box is still pretty tight but handles much better, no more wandering on the road. Takes about 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 turns side to side. Total cost was $165 delivered to the house from Advanced auto. Thanks for all the info from the thread!

Joe
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