69 Cutlass not starting after adjusting air/fuel mixture

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Old August 29th, 2015, 05:00 PM
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69 Cutlass not starting after adjusting air/fuel mixture

I recently was given a 69 Cutlass with an original rocket 350 motor and a 2 jet Rochester carb. The car had been sitting for 2 to 3 years.

I've replaced the plugs, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, and air filter. It has a fresh tank of gas with fuel system cleaner added.

The car seems to run ok, but likes to stall in drive when stopped. Also, the exhaust smells a bit of gas... seemed pretty rich. When my wife and I would stop at a light for a while, our eyes would get irritated by the fumes. I put a vacuum gauge on it and noticed it was fluctuating at idle around 15. It also has an occasional RPM surging. I looked at the 2 mixture screws on the carb and noticed the left one was way out (maybe 6 turns out or so) and the right one was closer to 4. I adjusted both mixture screws using the vacuum gauge, and it ended up both screws out about 3.5. Pressure is sitting pretty steady at 17. I still need to put a tachometer on it, but it sounds noticeably better.

The problem is that I can't seem to get it started when it is hot unless I close the butterfly on the choke almost all the way. Though, I didn't get a chance to try it cold after the adjustments.. so I am not sure what the results of that will be.

What do you think my next step should be?
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Old August 29th, 2015, 06:39 PM
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Is the accelerator pump working? Looking down carb throat, not running, do you see good stream of fuel when pressing accelerator?
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Old August 29th, 2015, 06:48 PM
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What are your dwell/timing setting?
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Old August 30th, 2015, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gehrig44
I recently was given a 69 Cutlass with an original rocket 350 motor and a 2 jet Rochester carb. The car had been sitting for 2 to 3 years.

I've replaced the plugs, fuel filter, oil, oil filter, and air filter. It has a fresh tank of gas with fuel system cleaner added.
I don't see "rebuilt the carb" anywhere on that list. Do that first. The 2GC is particularly sensitive to float level. Also, the additives and ethanol in today's gasoline will leave deposits that clog internal carb passageways as it evaporates after 2-3 years of sitting.
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Old August 30th, 2015, 03:30 PM
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Thanks for the response all. I do appreciate the help.

The carb was rebuilt about 3-4 years ago. But, then it just sat. So, sounds like I should do it again. I haven't even hit it with carb cleaner.

I was able to start it cold no problem today. But, same issue when trying to start hot. First time time I tried to turn it over at operating temp it almost starts. But, doesn't even sound like it is coming close on subsequent attempts. I can see smoke coming out of the carb after it fails to start. I do see a short stream of gas coming out both jets when I hit the accelerator. So, that looks good to my untrained eye.

I'll look into how to do the timing/dwell settings. I'm a newb at this, so I want to do my research before tackling it. If the fast idle is way too high, could this be the cause of my issue as well?

Last edited by gehrig44; August 30th, 2015 at 03:33 PM.
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Old August 30th, 2015, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by gehrig44
The carb was rebuilt about 3-4 years ago. But, then it just sat. So, sounds like I should do it again.
Oh, yeah. The first thing that happens when the car sits is that the gasoline in the carb float bowl evaporates, leaving deposits in all the small passageways in the carb. The second thing that happens is that the gaskets dry out, causing leaks. Rebuild the carb. If it has a plastic float, replace it.
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Old September 5th, 2015, 05:14 PM
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I'm going to check the timing and dwell tomorrow. According to the Chassis Service Manual dwell should be set to 30 degrees. What should my total timing be set at? Around 34-36?

I am still researching carb rebuilding. I just purchased a Haynes Rochester manual, so hopefully that will help me. I wonder if my float needs adjusting and/or has sediment in it as well.
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Old September 5th, 2015, 07:28 PM
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I would just set the dwell to 30,timing to 6-8 degrees before TDC. Set your idle RPM to 600 in drive.
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Old September 6th, 2015, 06:01 AM
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Since the car is stock, just set it to the stock settings, which are in the manual (the manual also has a full section on how to do all of the carb. adjustments).

While you're messing with it, double check that the centrifugal and vacuum advance are both working properly.

- Eric
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Old September 6th, 2015, 10:44 AM
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Dwell was at 25 degrees. Adjusted to 30. Timing was so far advanced, it was above the indicator. I lowered it to around 6 BTDC. The RPM's were super high. I adjusted to around 625 RPM's when in drive.. and around 1000 in park. The car is still surging a bit though. Tried to adjust mixtures, but nothing seemed it help. Needle on the vacuum gauge was bouncing around 15. We are really looking for about 18 Hg, right? However, it did hot start hot. We'll have to see about how it cold starts. Tomorrow I think I will look for vacuum leaks. And yes, carb rebuild is inevitable.
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