65 cutlass convert.
#1
65 cutlass convert.
so i just bought a 65 convertible last night for $3800, naturally it needs some work has some rust burried throughout (havnt been under it yet) seems to be in decent shape, body is straight needs few things. anyway my real question is the guy wasnt really sure what kind of motor is in it. he says its a 350 rocket but i was curious if there is an easy way to tell whether its a 350, 400 or even the stock 330 he had no idea. Also does anyone have any good sources for parts? like convertible top motors and such?
Thanks!?
Thanks!?
#2
Why don't you post a picture of the engine bay so someone can get a good look at it. If it's an original, it very likely is the 330 with a 2 speed auto?
$3800 is a lot of bucks for a car that has rust buried throughout even if the body looks straight. But a vert usually commands top prices.
Fusicks Automotive, Parts Place, OPG, Tamraz, Supercars Unlimited are good places to get new parts. If you want used, search through Hemmings or the web. There's some good deals out there.
Don't be afraid to raid or visit the local boneyards and pick up parts that can be reconditioned. There's a lot of guys on this forum who are into the older model cars who can probably give you even more information about where to get some parts. They might have some spares they will sell or trade.
Also, don't forget there's a section on Classic Olds that is dedicated to Parts wanted, for sale, project cars etc.
All the best on your project. Welcome to the world of Oldsmobile.
$3800 is a lot of bucks for a car that has rust buried throughout even if the body looks straight. But a vert usually commands top prices.
Fusicks Automotive, Parts Place, OPG, Tamraz, Supercars Unlimited are good places to get new parts. If you want used, search through Hemmings or the web. There's some good deals out there.
Don't be afraid to raid or visit the local boneyards and pick up parts that can be reconditioned. There's a lot of guys on this forum who are into the older model cars who can probably give you even more information about where to get some parts. They might have some spares they will sell or trade.
Also, don't forget there's a section on Classic Olds that is dedicated to Parts wanted, for sale, project cars etc.
All the best on your project. Welcome to the world of Oldsmobile.
#3
Roger that, I will post a pic of the engine compartment tomorrow. I guess I may have over-dramatized the rust, I'm just not used to dealing with rust(always lived in dry climate until now) so it seems like a lot to me.
After show and tell with the neighbors they didnt seem to think it was too much rust at all.
pretty sure the frame is good, there is a little bit of rot that is behind the rear wheel well but im pretty positive the frame is good and such. As i said i havnt had a chance to dig very deep into it. I hope I didnt get ripped off on it. Not to mention this will be my first restoration.
After show and tell with the neighbors they didnt seem to think it was too much rust at all.
pretty sure the frame is good, there is a little bit of rot that is behind the rear wheel well but im pretty positive the frame is good and such. As i said i havnt had a chance to dig very deep into it. I hope I didnt get ripped off on it. Not to mention this will be my first restoration.
#4
unless its absolute junk you did fine. Any complete 64-67 abody convertible under 4K can get close to breaking even parting it out. I have seen good rear seat frames bring 700-800 alone. Rust free frame can bring 1500-2000. Not that I am suggesting parting it just giving you an idea of what parts can be worth.
Post some pics already
Post some pics already
#6
you can id the engine block by looking at the numbers, on the shelf, directly behind the timing cover/water pump. this shelf is directly below the front edge of the intake manifold. you may have to clean some crud off to see the number. after you post the number, we can tell you what engine you have.
bill
bill
#7
Welcome from another "Classic Oldsmobile" newb and fellow 65 vert owner.
Have yet to source hard parts (motors pumps etc.) but I ordered my top from OPGI . I am wondering how rebuidable that stuff might be ?
Have yet to source hard parts (motors pumps etc.) but I ordered my top from OPGI . I am wondering how rebuidable that stuff might be ?
#8
at work right now so i cant post pictures of the engine bay yet but i figured since you gents took the time to reply i would follow up. I really dont think it was a bad deal, My buddy saw one at a show yesterday in not much better condition asking $13,900 for it.
this one is certainly in salvagable condition so far. tonight i will be climbing under it to see the extent of the toll time has taken but the only rust you can see walking around it is on one side the buttom of a door has some surface rust and then the trunk bottom is a bit thin. this thing sat inside for many years and im sure outside for a couple.
here are the pics of the outside that were in the ad though. Granted they certainly make it look cleaner than it is up front.
this one is certainly in salvagable condition so far. tonight i will be climbing under it to see the extent of the toll time has taken but the only rust you can see walking around it is on one side the buttom of a door has some surface rust and then the trunk bottom is a bit thin. this thing sat inside for many years and im sure outside for a couple.
here are the pics of the outside that were in the ad though. Granted they certainly make it look cleaner than it is up front.
#10
alright finally with the pics of the engine compartment. My buddy stopped by said its def a 330 rocket so itl be interesting to see what you guys say. Thanks for looking at it. one thing to note it has a vac. leak in the lower passenger side of the carb right below the adapter plate. most likely why it was having such a hard time idling.
#11
I agree with your buddy, the last pic that shows the number between the water pump and intake is the key. If I'm reading it right that says it is. My 2 cents, get rid of the Holly and adapter and go back to orginal 4 jet carb. It will perform well and keep life simpler John
#12
you have yourself a '64 or '65 330, going by the number and the valve covers. however that oil fill cap on the passenger side isn't stock. unless you want to make it bone stock, i'd install the later pcv system. your engine will be happier and last longer by keeping the oil much less contaminated with blow-by gases.
bill
bill
Last edited by BILL DEMMER; August 28th, 2008 at 07:36 PM.
#13
Pretty nice, looks like a deal to me too. Doesn't look too messed with either, that can be more work to fix than anything.
There is a lot of information including the numbers for engine identification along with all kinds of other good stuff if you click on the tech link at the top of the page. Olds Junction has links to suppliers and lots of info too.
Allan
There is a lot of information including the numbers for engine identification along with all kinds of other good stuff if you click on the tech link at the top of the page. Olds Junction has links to suppliers and lots of info too.
Allan
#15
Changing over to the PCV system would be easy. All you have to do is buy a new valve cover grommet for the PCV valve, buy the PCV valve, and hook it up properly. The PCV valve goes to the large vacuum nipple at the base of your carburetor.
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