1972 Cutlass S ?
#121
Well guys made a fatal error with the rad haha this is such a dumb *** move I am almost embarrassed to share this but I went to test fit it and the damn thing is too big! I failed to do that before doing all the work cleaning, testing and painting it. Previous owner must have made this error too as the rad was in the trunk of the parts care... The core on this rad is about 30.5 inches if I remember correctly it had a tag on it that I traced to a 1980's Cadillac, so I ended up ordering a Vista-Pro Ready Rad 433322, saw that others have had great success with it. It is not an original brass/copper rad but my car is far from original and really I just want something that will cool well and work with my windstar fan setup. Price was right at $99 with free shipping from Advance Auto.
On a positive note got the rear half of the exhaust loosely mounted. Went with the Pypes 3 inch with X Pipe and Race Pro Mufflers, fits good so far and looks to be a good quality exhaust.
On a positive note got the rear half of the exhaust loosely mounted. Went with the Pypes 3 inch with X Pipe and Race Pro Mufflers, fits good so far and looks to be a good quality exhaust.
Last edited by bainer1290; May 30th, 2014 at 06:57 AM.
#123
You bring up a good point I was on the fence 2.5 vs 3, I wanted to have a larger exhaust in case I did more mods down the road. Price was very close on both systems from Pypes...
My build will should deliver around 425hp/500ft lb also.
-Olds 455
-KB 277 30 over pistons (comp around 9.8:1)
-stock rods & crank ground 10 under/align honed/balanced
-Cam 298/306 on a 110, with .568 lift on both (thanks Cutlassefi)
-Comp Roller Rockers/Guide Plates/Studs
-Large Valve 2.07/1.72 G heads light porting job, crossover filled, center divider levelled
-Edelbrock Performer 2151 intake / Quadrajet jetted to match engine
-Hooker Comp non-tuned Headers 3902 / 3 inch Pypes dual exhaust
-HEI Distributor
-TH400 trans, red alto perf rebuild with Transgo 400-1&2
-Rear end is a 3.70 posi
-2,500 Freakshow Performance stall
My build will should deliver around 425hp/500ft lb also.
-Olds 455
-KB 277 30 over pistons (comp around 9.8:1)
-stock rods & crank ground 10 under/align honed/balanced
-Cam 298/306 on a 110, with .568 lift on both (thanks Cutlassefi)
-Comp Roller Rockers/Guide Plates/Studs
-Large Valve 2.07/1.72 G heads light porting job, crossover filled, center divider levelled
-Edelbrock Performer 2151 intake / Quadrajet jetted to match engine
-Hooker Comp non-tuned Headers 3902 / 3 inch Pypes dual exhaust
-HEI Distributor
-TH400 trans, red alto perf rebuild with Transgo 400-1&2
-Rear end is a 3.70 posi
-2,500 Freakshow Performance stall
#126
Got the fan shroud trimmed up, fits real good. Used a Hayden dual fan controller with a adjustable temp control to operate the main fan, then I have a secondary relay wired to the second fan feed which operates the second fan. Lots of feedback out there on how many amps these fans pull, I could not find an actual number anywhere from 15 to 50 amps each is what they say, what I can say is I test ran them for a few minutes each one being fused with a 25amp fuse and 40 amp relay, nothing was hot and ran fine so must be under that.
Last edited by bainer1290; June 9th, 2014 at 07:38 PM.
#127
Well got the engine put together, painted and installed in the car with the TH400. Had the custom 3.5" driveshaft made and have installed it. Put the headers on and also mounted the Alternator and PS Pump.
Hoping to have it running in about a week, just waiting on the correct length pushrods. I also have to finish installing the exhaust from the headers to the mufflers and of course the rad and front end.
Getting close!!!
Hoping to have it running in about a week, just waiting on the correct length pushrods. I also have to finish installing the exhaust from the headers to the mufflers and of course the rad and front end.
Getting close!!!
#128
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Looks good Rob! Sorry I haven't kept up with this thread as I should have. Interesting choice on the cooling system. Love to see how it runs in the summer heat; so I hope your fuse and relay is the right.
I noticed on your engine test fit the headers were black, but on the install they are silver/white? Did you have them ceramic coated or did you just paint them with high heat paint? Sure makes it look easy when there's no rad support to lift the engine and trans over for the install! Did you put a heat shield between the starter and the headers?
Another week to finish? I guess that means you won't be driving this to the Rocket Roundup in Olds this year. No worries, my car won't be there either....sigh....long story for another time.
I noticed on your engine test fit the headers were black, but on the install they are silver/white? Did you have them ceramic coated or did you just paint them with high heat paint? Sure makes it look easy when there's no rad support to lift the engine and trans over for the install! Did you put a heat shield between the starter and the headers?
Another week to finish? I guess that means you won't be driving this to the Rocket Roundup in Olds this year. No worries, my car won't be there either....sigh....long story for another time.
#129
Hi Allan, no worries I have not been posting as much as I should with updates either!
I just used some Hi-Temp VHT paint on the headers. And yes I have the heat-shield for the starter so we'll see how it does, using one of the oem large starters, it fits with the headers in place but not sure how it will handle the heat, might need to go with a mini starter...
Hopefully only a week to go, which sucks as this weekend (starting tonight) is the Street Wheelers weekend in Lethbridge so I will be drooling all weekend.
Hope your car is doing alright?
I just used some Hi-Temp VHT paint on the headers. And yes I have the heat-shield for the starter so we'll see how it does, using one of the oem large starters, it fits with the headers in place but not sure how it will handle the heat, might need to go with a mini starter...
Hopefully only a week to go, which sucks as this weekend (starting tonight) is the Street Wheelers weekend in Lethbridge so I will be drooling all weekend.
Hope your car is doing alright?
#130
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Be prepared for some smoke when you fire that beast up. I don't think the VHT will last very long on the headers.
My car has had its setbacks this year. Right now the garage is in use by a huge stockpile of lumber being used to build back yard projects.
Enjoy the Street Wheelers show. Post some pictures.
My car has had its setbacks this year. Right now the garage is in use by a huge stockpile of lumber being used to build back yard projects.
Enjoy the Street Wheelers show. Post some pictures.
#131
Spent most of the weekend in the garage, got the rad in looks good with the electric fans, test ran them for 5 minutes with no issues the 2 relays didn't get hot so we'll see when the engine and rad are hot how it works.
#133
Got the car running last night, broke in the cam as per the instructions 20 minutes, 2,000 - 2,500 rpm, dumped the oil and filer, all looks good no metal. Got the timing set and the rad/windstar fan setup managed to keep it cool so all looks good no leaks. Next is to get the transmission shifter adjusted, hei/choke are running off the acc terminal on the fuse panel but I think they are not getting enough voltage so I am going to setup a relay from there with a direct connection to the horn relay that way they will get 12v. Spark looks a little weak...
Allan you were right the headers are cooking that paint haha oh well figured that would happen.
The oem starter is weak does not have enough to really crank it good, it starts but not as good as I want it to. Also once its hot its heat soaked and doesn't work for a good 20 or so minutes. Ordered a mini starter from Summit so it should do the trick, wonder if I need to make a heat shield for it?
Oh well should be able to maybe take it for a little cruise this weekend if I get that relay in and the shifter adjusted.
Allan you were right the headers are cooking that paint haha oh well figured that would happen.
The oem starter is weak does not have enough to really crank it good, it starts but not as good as I want it to. Also once its hot its heat soaked and doesn't work for a good 20 or so minutes. Ordered a mini starter from Summit so it should do the trick, wonder if I need to make a heat shield for it?
Oh well should be able to maybe take it for a little cruise this weekend if I get that relay in and the shifter adjusted.
#134
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I thought you had a heat shield installed when you put the headers on. They end up being so close to the starter I'm not surprised you're getting that result. Here's a link to one sold by ILT.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-71-72-...item257da7e8be
I'm not sure if the OEM starter was different back in the late 60's and 1970 when the engines were higher CR. You've changed your CR from 8.1 to 9.8 so I'd imagine it's going to crank a bit harder. Personally, I'd try installing a heat shield before spending a lot of money on the mini starter. Increased heat on the starter increases resistance in the coil. I think you'll find this will be true on any starter you install. Best thing is to isolate it a bit from the header tubes. Normal engine heat shouldn't affect the starter unless your engine is running way too hot.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/69-70-71-72-...item257da7e8be
I'm not sure if the OEM starter was different back in the late 60's and 1970 when the engines were higher CR. You've changed your CR from 8.1 to 9.8 so I'd imagine it's going to crank a bit harder. Personally, I'd try installing a heat shield before spending a lot of money on the mini starter. Increased heat on the starter increases resistance in the coil. I think you'll find this will be true on any starter you install. Best thing is to isolate it a bit from the header tubes. Normal engine heat shouldn't affect the starter unless your engine is running way too hot.
#135
Thanks for that Allan, yes I do have the heat shield on there but I think its a combo of heat and just an old tired starter... I found a new Summitt mini starter on ebay for $110 shipped o the US so have it on its way, should solve my problems.
I was able to take the car for a 15 minute drive today, man it sounds nice, I didn't get too far into the pedal but there is lots there!! It ran real good, still have the Hurst shifter off a bit I need to adjust it before the next ride so I can pull it into 1st. Taking it in for the inspection Monday so should be legit to drive after that.
I was able to take the car for a 15 minute drive today, man it sounds nice, I didn't get too far into the pedal but there is lots there!! It ran real good, still have the Hurst shifter off a bit I need to adjust it before the next ride so I can pull it into 1st. Taking it in for the inspection Monday so should be legit to drive after that.
#136
Well passed the inspection, had a few minor issues, one rear drum was too thin, luckily I had a spare one on the spare rear axle. Also the brake light was on, thought it might be the parking brake but turns out it was the brake prop/combo valve pressure switch. When I bled the brakes it must have thrown the pressure differential valve out of center, I read on another site that sometimes you need to re-bleed the system or standing on the brake pedal hard can sometimes reset it too if there is no air in the system, so I stomped the brake pedal a few times and voila the light went out, guess I got lucky.
Got to take the car for a few good cruises now, runs really well lots of power there. Really happy with how it turned out, thanks to cutlassefi, Smitty, Allan and all of the rest of you that helped me along the way.
Got to take the car for a few good cruises now, runs really well lots of power there. Really happy with how it turned out, thanks to cutlassefi, Smitty, Allan and all of the rest of you that helped me along the way.
#137
Installed the mini starter, took it for a good drive to get it warmed up, then turned the car off and let it sit for a few minutes, started right up after that so looks like the mini starter solved the problem. Car is running really good, now its time to put some miles on it.
#140
It's been some time from my last update, started to dig into the exterior of the car just before Christmas, stripped it to bare metal and found a few surprises. In short ended up need to put some new metal in both front lower fenders and the rear quarters behind all 4 wheels. Then stripped the entire car down to bare metal just to see what else I had, nothing major but there was a few dents and scrapes so I am glad I did it to know what was all under there.
I also put on a set of Viking front coilovers and rear shocks along with 2 inch BMR rear lowering springs. You can see the difference in ride height in the last picture, overall lowered the car about 2.5 inches. I like the look as it fills the wheel wells and makes it look more like a pro touring car.
I also put on a set of Viking front coilovers and rear shocks along with 2 inch BMR rear lowering springs. You can see the difference in ride height in the last picture, overall lowered the car about 2.5 inches. I like the look as it fills the wheel wells and makes it look more like a pro touring car.
Last edited by bainer1290; February 28th, 2015 at 09:12 PM.
#144
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Rob, x2 on the stance.
Question, to get that perfect gap (flush fender to door) did you end up shimming the lower fender mount to 'stretch' it out a bit? It looks perfect!
Just my opinion but I think black stripes on dark blue or medium blue will get lost in the overall appearance of the car. Would you consider something like white, gold or silver for accent?
How soon till color goes on? You spraying it yourself or having it done?
Question, to get that perfect gap (flush fender to door) did you end up shimming the lower fender mount to 'stretch' it out a bit? It looks perfect!
Just my opinion but I think black stripes on dark blue or medium blue will get lost in the overall appearance of the car. Would you consider something like white, gold or silver for accent?
How soon till color goes on? You spraying it yourself or having it done?
#145
I also put on a set of Viking front coilovers and rear shocks along with 2 inch BMR rear lowering springs. You can see the difference in ride height in the last picture, overall lowered the car about 2.5 inches. I like the look as it fills the wheel wells and makes it look more like a pro touring car.
#146
Car is looking real good, great work. What temp does it idle at on a hot day with your cooling setup? I have the same radiator and run a flex fan. On really hot days it will creep up a little higher than I like. So I might try that fan setup on mine.
#147
Thanks for all the comments guys, I am getting excited to see how it looks with color too.
I just got the hoist in the fall, wish I would have sooner as it has made everything way easier!!! Only problem with it is the header collector flanges are a bit low so with the lowered suspension getting on and off I need to use a 2x10 for the front wheels, it doesn't help that my garage has a ramp coming into it too but it works, only really need to park on it to work on it anyways...
I did put a small shim under the front fenders to get that gap just right along with putting an object in the gap while tightening the fender bolts to make it stay gapped form the door.
I thought about white stripes, but not sure I want to go that bold, I was also on the fence about no stripes but think the black would be a middle ground. Just 2 hood stripes, nothing on the sides.
Color hopefully in April/May is the plan, I have a friend that works in a shop and I plan to use him to spray the actual color/clear, I am not that good yet.
15 inch rims, rears are 275/60's and fronts I think 235/50's or 60's. One day I will get 18's or maybe 20's on the rears with 18's on the front, but the budget doesn't have room this year.
The temp has been good, I have the fan control set to 180 and it keeps it within 10 degrees according to the temp gauge, the rad fit really well and the fas setup has worked good too. I am located in Canada so summer temps get up to 100 on really hot days but not usually much more than that so depends what kind of heat you are in I have not tested it in super hot over 100 degree weather...
Rob, x2 on the stance.
Question, to get that perfect gap (flush fender to door) did you end up shimming the lower fender mount to 'stretch' it out a bit? It looks perfect!
Just my opinion but I think black stripes on dark blue or medium blue will get lost in the overall appearance of the car. Would you consider something like white, gold or silver for accent?
How soon till color goes on? You spraying it yourself or having it done?
Question, to get that perfect gap (flush fender to door) did you end up shimming the lower fender mount to 'stretch' it out a bit? It looks perfect!
Just my opinion but I think black stripes on dark blue or medium blue will get lost in the overall appearance of the car. Would you consider something like white, gold or silver for accent?
How soon till color goes on? You spraying it yourself or having it done?
I thought about white stripes, but not sure I want to go that bold, I was also on the fence about no stripes but think the black would be a middle ground. Just 2 hood stripes, nothing on the sides.
Color hopefully in April/May is the plan, I have a friend that works in a shop and I plan to use him to spray the actual color/clear, I am not that good yet.
The temp has been good, I have the fan control set to 180 and it keeps it within 10 degrees according to the temp gauge, the rad fit really well and the fas setup has worked good too. I am located in Canada so summer temps get up to 100 on really hot days but not usually much more than that so depends what kind of heat you are in I have not tested it in super hot over 100 degree weather...
Last edited by bainer1290; March 2nd, 2015 at 12:09 PM.
#148
Allan, you got me thinking of silver stripes now... might look good. The color that I am going with with be similar to this for the blue and it will need to be painted with a silver prior to for it to get the right color so that would be less work painting to go silver vs black.
If I can match the silver/gray to the rims I want to but that might look really good.
If I can match the silver/gray to the rims I want to but that might look really good.
Last edited by bainer1290; March 3rd, 2015 at 06:58 AM.
#151
Well getting closer, the painter is booked for mid May. I blocked it, resprayed it with another 2 coats of 2k primer and am in the process of blocking it again just to make sure its nice and straight.
Color choice has changed a little, now going with the blue below and this gunmetal grey for the hood stripes. Getting excited to see it with some color!!!
Color choice has changed a little, now going with the blue below and this gunmetal grey for the hood stripes. Getting excited to see it with some color!!!
#153
Got the car back from paint on Friday! I love the color, I took a few different pics as the blue changes depending on how sunny it is. Stripes on the hood are done in gunmetal grey and they turned out real nice too, plan was to get some larger rims down the road and maybe match them to the stripes.
#160
Fyi
The Lethbridge Street wheelers have the track on June 5-6 for Power to the Pavement. Can you make it to that event?
http://www.streetwheelers.com/power-2-pavement
http://www.streetwheelers.com/power-2-pavement