Intermediate Steering Shaft
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Have to agree with you - just sounds intimidating at the start. Did that 2 years ago, but my shaft rubber and coupler were in really good shape so I didn't have to replace them. When you put it back together use grease liberally in the rubber seal to hold those anti rattle clips. Excess will glootch out the end for easy cleanup. I see you found the pic in the CSM. The write up is quite good and easy to follow. Here's how mine turned out after cleanup and dry fitted together
Really nice how clean your washer got those parts!!!
Really nice how clean your washer got those parts!!!
#4
Great! And while it is apart you can paint it if desired. Reassembly tips can be found here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post301437
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post301437
#6
#7
Did you remove the upper nut AND cross bolt at the top and the cross bolt from the rag joint?
The bolts have to come out as they fit captive in grooves.
Mine just pulled down and popped out after pulling all the bolts.
The bolts have to come out as they fit captive in grooves.
Mine just pulled down and popped out after pulling all the bolts.
#9
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Sounds like Rob is describing getting the shaft off the steering column splines.
#10
Rob, I'm not talking about the rag joint at all. Look at Allan's top picture, way to the left, just left of the rubber boot, that cross shaft.
#11
Right. Okay, you mean the pressed in little stud. I would not know cause I left that part in mine. Looks to be pressed. Measure each side with a caliper. If both are the same diameter, use an arbor press and push it out from either side. If there is a smaller side, press on it. Reinstall the same way. Might have to find someone with a press though, or use a stout C-clamp and a socket over the pin's exit...
#12
#13
Right. Okay, you mean the pressed in little stud. I would not know cause I left that part in mine. Looks to be pressed. Measure each side with a caliper. If both are the same diameter, use an arbor press and push it out from either side. If there is a smaller side, press on it. Reinstall the same way. Might have to find someone with a press though, or use a stout C-clamp and a socket over the pin's exit...
#14
#15
Oh. Mine had a slice in it so I got a new one. There's not enough soap in the world to get the new one past that shaft. I ended up buying an intermediate shaft that had a good boot on it, but I would still like to fix this one so I could sell it. I just can't get that damned cross shaft out. I tried heat, lube, cold, bigger hammer. I don't have access to an arbor press. I will try the socket and c-clamp and see if that will work.
#17
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Guys, here is a write up on how to remove the cross pin on a Buick intermediate shaft. Same principle with pics.
Intermediate grease seal replacement
Intermediate grease seal replacement
#18
Oh. Mine had a slice in it so I got a new one. There's not enough soap in the world to get the new one past that shaft. I ended up buying an intermediate shaft that had a good boot on it, but I would still like to fix this one so I could sell it. I just can't get that damned cross shaft out. I tried heat, lube, cold, bigger hammer. I don't have access to an arbor press. I will try the socket and c-clamp and see if that will work.
POWERSTEERING.COM fixes these as well and replaces all the little parts including the "T".
If no one cares about originality, here are some of the same parts as our cars except for the boot.
http://products.4wd.com/lower_manual..._110642416.php
#20
#21
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Well it has to come out somehow. It was likely pressed in there, so it should press out. I never verniered mine. Anyone try to see if one side is slightly smaller?
#22
Try your local GM/Buik dealer for the clip. They have alot of old stuff surprisingly and they can search nationally. I had luck finding a steering locking plate retaining ring through their system - cost was 0.25ea (I got two) with 5.00 postage.
Maybe 4wd.com will sell just the clip.
Cheers, Peter
Maybe 4wd.com will sell just the clip.
Cheers, Peter
#24
#25
Or the old junk yard.
These clips were used on essentially every GM car made for several decades, and the part can be popped out in seconds, just by leaning over the fender.
If you're buying several items at once, this one will likely be a freebie.
- Eric
These clips were used on essentially every GM car made for several decades, and the part can be popped out in seconds, just by leaning over the fender.
If you're buying several items at once, this one will likely be a freebie.
- Eric
#29
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Good to know. From looking at mine (during the rebuild) it looks like the cross shaft is all the same OD. Did you by any chance measure to find out? More a curiosity thing for me than anything else.
What is the significance of the copper on that coupler pin? Mine were all steel.
What is the significance of the copper on that coupler pin? Mine were all steel.
#30
Inline has this color scheme, above ( could not move pic to below, how to do that?)
Last edited by JCMC64; February 7th, 2019 at 12:27 AM.
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