Any tips on replacing the intermediate steering shaft rubber seal (pot joint seal)?

Thanks!

 

Ok I dove in and it's not all that hard. I used this diagram and now I'm waiting on the seal and new steering coupler (rag joint).

 

Have to agree with you - just sounds intimidating at the start. Did that 2 years ago, but my shaft rubber and coupler were in really good shape so I didn't have to replace them. When you put it back together use grease liberally in the rubber seal to hold those anti rattle clips. Excess will glootch out the end for easy cleanup. I see you found the pic in the CSM. The write up is quite good and easy to follow. Here's how mine turned out after cleanup and dry fitted together





Really nice how clean your washer got those parts!!!

 

Great! And while it is apart you can paint it if desired. Reassembly tips can be found here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post301437

 

Thanks fellas!

 

How did you get the cross shaft out? Mine won't budge.

 

Did you remove the upper nut AND cross bolt at the top and the cross bolt from the rag joint?
The bolts have to come out as they fit captive in grooves.
Mine just pulled down and popped out after pulling all the bolts.

 

If you mean the "T" you have to use a punch if you just hit it with a bfh it will mushroom.

 

Good to know. A series of smaller taps or just whale on it with a drift? When I looked at the cross shaft (we're talking about the one on the end with the rubber seal) it looked like it was the same diameter all the way through, so it has to be pressure fitted.

Sounds like Rob is describing getting the shaft off the steering column splines.

 

I tried that (the punch that is), it won't budge at all. Tried it from both sides too. Not even a millimeter of movement either way.

Rob, I'm not talking about the rag joint at all. Look at Allan's top picture, way to the left, just left of the rubber boot, that cross shaft.

 

Right. Okay, you mean the pressed in little stud. I would not know cause I left that part in mine. Looks to be pressed. Measure each side with a caliper. If both are the same diameter, use an arbor press and push it out from either side. If there is a smaller side, press on it. Reinstall the same way. Might have to find someone with a press though, or use a stout C-clamp and a socket over the pin's exit...

 

+1. I really whacked it a few times, too. No dice.

I assumed it was unremovable after that.

- Eric

 

So how'd you get the rubber boot back on? My new one won't stretch far enough to go over it.

 

Never took it off - it was in surprisingly perfect shape.
Some soapy water will help lube it so it will slide on.

 

Oh. Mine had a slice in it so I got a new one. There's not enough soap in the world to get the new one past that shaft. I ended up buying an intermediate shaft that had a good boot on it, but I would still like to fix this one so I could sell it. I just can't get that damned cross shaft out. I tried heat, lube, cold, bigger hammer. I don't have access to an arbor press. I will try the socket and c-clamp and see if that will work.

 

I was confused - I though you got the cross bar out and was trying to get the new boot on over the steery shaft.

 

Guys, here is a write up on how to remove the cross pin on a Buick intermediate shaft. Same principle with pics.
Intermediate grease seal replacement

 

Mine came right out no problem? I wonder if yours got too hot at one time and expanded or something?
POWERSTEERING.COM fixes these as well and replaces all the little parts including the "T".
If no one cares about originality, here are some of the same parts as our cars except for the boot.

http://products.4wd.com/lower_manual..._110642416.php

 

I broke the C clip on mine and cant find one like it anywhere. Anyone have any ideas before I resort to a flat cable tie.

 

Sorry, Allen, but that did NOT work on mine, and I put some pretty serious hurt on it before I gave up.

It's nice to imagine it would work, though .

- Eric

 

Well it has to come out somehow. It was likely pressed in there, so it should press out. I never verniered mine. Anyone try to see if one side is slightly smaller?

 

Try your local GM/Buik dealer for the clip. They have alot of old stuff surprisingly and they can search nationally. I had luck finding a steering locking plate retaining ring through their system - cost was 0.25ea (I got two) with 5.00 postage.
Maybe 4wd.com will sell just the clip.
Cheers, Peter

 

Thanks Peter

 

I am sure some members here have some of these in their parts boxes or parts cars!

 

Or the old junk yard.

These clips were used on essentially every GM car made for several decades, and the part can be popped out in seconds, just by leaning over the fender.

If you're buying several items at once, this one will likely be a freebie.

- Eric

 

All complete.

 

Looks excellent.

Now, you can't just post that and not update us on how you got the cross pin out.

 

Allan mine came out with the punchand a BFH no problems. For once something went easy for me.....

 

Good to know. From looking at mine (during the rebuild) it looks like the cross shaft is all the same OD. Did you by any chance measure to find out? More a curiosity thing for me than anything else.

What is the significance of the copper on that coupler pin? Mine were all steel.

 

Allan , what is correct color scheme on this intermediate shaft? Is yours correct?
Inline has this color scheme, above ( could not move pic to below, how to do that?)

 

Jim - it's the color I liked best. Cast metal by Duplicolor. They were probably black from the factory but I like this look much better.

 

👍👍
I got Duplicolor Stainless paint that is similar.