The factory I work in has declared a critical production status, meaning mandatory 7 days a week for the next 90 days. Blah!!! So it looks like my cruising/car shows are done for this year.

So I might get an early start on my winter project. I thought it might be interesting to see what others have planned.

 

I'd really like to rewire it with an American Autowire update kit. Moving the battery to the trunk would be cool. I need to figure out how to centralize everything, and decide where/how to do a relay panel. It all has to be planned, first. Of course, if it's all apart, I should replace the dash insert......
Putting a full exhaust on has revealed other noises. It could probably benefit from some Dynamat.
Otherwise, the car is pretty good, for now.

 

My car comes out to play in winter. Can't really enjoy a convertible (or anything else outdoors) when summer temps are above 110ºF.

 

That is probably only one of the good things about living in Cal. Can use car year around.

 

Have several things on the to-do list on the Cutlass over the winter, mind you it isn’t going to be laid up. With the mild winters we’ve had the last several years I’ll be driving it as long as the streets are dry and salt free.

I need to do some exhaust work as my mufflers hang lower than I like. Will be doing some cutting and welding for sure. Need to tidy up the engine compartment as well, just not much to look at now. The chrome thing doesn’t work for me anymore, I just want it to look tidy, clean and neat going forward, at least for now.

 

definitely some truth to this!! Chrome was cool when we were in high school. Now, it only looks good when it’s clean and polished. Who has time for that?

 

I have a couple things I'm looking at, depends how deep I want to go. The 88 still leaks, maybe the pinion gear, or maybe just engine oil running down the drive shaft. I might have axle seals leaking, and I'm considering some brake work. The lights don't all work as I'd like them to, so I may be chasing wires from the tail lights, brakes and turn signals. I guess that's mostly small stuff, unless I have to yank the engine out to redo the rear main seal or the oil pan gasket, but even that- I've had the motor out of the car twice in the last year. It's starting to feel routine. Ball joint boots are torn but the joints are still solid. I just grease them often. Front sway bar bushings are brittle- I could redo the front sway bar with some urethane bushings, and I'd love to get the belly of the beast painted or undercoated.

For now, I turn the key and it starts. It passes inspection, I can drive it easily. It's fun. This winter I guess I'll mostly get it out of the weather and try to keep the mice out.

Looks good from behind the wheel, I say...

 

What I want to do and what I get done are two different things. In order new carpet and sound deadener and get the rest of the interior back in. Work on smoothing out the quarter panels. New bushings in the rear suspension and add rear sway bar. Also need to work on the exhaust. Probably will not get it all done.

 

I'm just trying to keep the fleet, and myself, alive for the next five years before I can retire. Then I have time for big projects.

 

1979 Hurst Olds - continue with dying the white interior plastic trim and get that headliner installed.
1979 Blue Calais - get that headliner installed. And, find the vacuum leak that's causing that hard throttle acceleration hesitation.
1979 Black/Silver Cutlass Supreme Brougham. Get the leaking A/C compressor replaced, I may be taking an attempt at selling this car next Spring at Charlotte, NC's AACA Meet.
1994 Cutlass Supreme - get the bad oil leak fixed before the Nationals next year, I'll be bringing this one to the show as a Senior Class. The motor is going to need to be lifted/removed for this task, not gonna be cheap.

However, I will say, here in SC it's year round driving. But the stuff above has to get done.

 

1979 Blue Calais - headliner is now installed. This is an interesting job in that the directions should just be chucked and you might as well just figure it out for yourself. Case in point, the seat belt brackets on the B-Pillars DO need to be removed. the slot does line up, all you need to do is cut a slit in the fabric to get the torx bolt back in (watch out for cross-threading here). And good luck lining up the visor bracket holes. I had to drill new ones and kudos to me for not drilling a hole through the roof while doing it. Yecch. ANd the dome light. Holy cow, the pre-cut hole (for the Olds anyway) in no way lines up with a map light set up. I used a round file to gouge out one area for one of the pins, and had to again drill for the other. The sail panels don't need to be removed but you will need to get creative in getting the headliner board into the rear grooves by the back window.

I have the reclining bucket seats so with them fully reclined it was not so bad getting the headlinerboard into the car; I had to do that twice. But, you will need a 3rd hand to hold the board up to assist in finalizing the fit for both sides. I wound up taking off the 3 side clips on one side, fitting the board, and then reinstalling those clips. Unscrewing the top 3 screws on the B-pillar molding will also help. Also COVER YOUR SEATS. I tried to get the old board out to use as a template for the needed holes but it exploded into about 15 pieces and spewed black dust like stuff all over. Good thing I was wearing safety goggles.

I believe the headliner replacement I need to do for the 79 H/O will be easier due to it being a T-Top car. Yes, we'll see.

 

Going to replace my 3 gauge pod, replace trunk torsion rods, inspect brakes and pack bearings, install new spring isolators in rear, replace upper taillight harness, and a tuneup.

 

Shocks, learn how to use a timing light, and rebuild or have rebuilt the carb. And all new hoses. Will Get anew vacuum gauge and
learn to use.

this car can go allot faster

 

1964 Dynamic 88 convertible- I'm waiting for a new rear bumper to have it rechromed. I need to replace the beltline trim on the driver side, and I need to work on aligning the windows with the top. I'm leaking oil from somewhere I can't find, so I expect to pull the flywheel cover and see if it's a rear main seal leak or maybe just the oil pan. I'd love to get the power locks working, and I hope to spend some time polishing up the engine bay so it presents better.

 

I'm in Worcester county. I can show you how to use a timing light and help you rebuild the carb if you'd like some help. I also have a vacuum gauge, but I'm not good enough to use it for tune ups. I just use it to check for vacuum leaks.

 

Hear, hear lsh !

Matt, I think you will approve at least partially to what I am contemplating. As you know I have an 87 442 that's been sitting in the garage for 10 years now while my 69 is exposed to the elements... Well the 87s powertrain is original and great, but the body although never in a major accident is rotted badly. Floors are swiss cheesed, rear frame is rotted, back bumper has collapsed, usual spots on fenders and doors etc, bad. Original paint...

Now my 69s TH350 is having some issues. Feels like she slips here and there in forward gears till shes been driven for 15 minutes, and always reverses in delayed slow motion with some noise when you get on it. Also stopped downshifting at WOT... Now can I drive her like this forever, maybe, but getting her right would be nice. She is an occasional driver/toy. Can she fill in when my daily is out of commission as is, yes, been there done that. These cars inspire extreme confidence in ability, and once I use her regularly for a number of days the issues seemingly disappear.

Well I think you know where I'm going with this... Having the HI-PO KZF 4 speed swapped into the 69. But also contemplating having the 442s 3.73 8.5 non posi rears, housing etc, modified to work and swapped in as well ... The latter as I understand it is a bit complicated, this thread here just reversed. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-g-body-13557/ so yeah.

But obviously I already own the parts so that expense is spared. And I have access to both reasonable mechanics and a welder that I trust with my life. But I don't know how interested in taking this on they would be. I literally just came to considering this option today while actively enjoying Classic Olds.

That true dual exhaust 442 ran bests of 15.1 and 89.05 in the 1/4 mile at Englishtown, test weight 3560 lbs. Back then I could and actually did win a random race every now and then with that performance. Racing against a nice 1st generation M3 was awesome, neck and neck victories on both our parts in a 3 race series. My proudest moment. Cutting great lights as well, on both our parts. The 69 has only won at the track when someone botches their pass or at nostalgic race events where the competition in equal. Regular open test and tune, forget it. The cars that have became the new norm at the tracks over the past 17 years are insanely quick. I've driven so long now (40 years) that cars like the 69 which would of kicked *** in the 80s cant best almost anything new.

So yeah I would love to see what she can do with the 442s drivetrain but with the 350s extra 50 hp and 50 lb ft, while the 69s test weight is 3860 lbs.

Maybe if I'm lucky I can best a 2025 Camry with the 2.5 liter 4 cylinder. 😃 But even with that base engine that's a tall order today. 0-60 in 6.8 and 1/4 in 15.1 https://www.caranddriver.com/toyota/camry

 

I'm going to remove the HEI distributor from my 71 98 and go back to points. We'll see how long it takes.

 

if you do swap the 2004r in, get a good valve body kit and GN servo. The 442 valve body and governor should be a good match, especially with 3.73 gears.

 

Why ?

 

My plan for the Olds is to simply get it put back together. With the engine getting wver cloaer to completion, I need to get a couple things done so that when it gets here we can just drop it right in and hook everything up. In a perfect world, id like to find someone to redo the seats, get some new glass and a couple other things.. but maybe next off season..lol.

In the meantime, Pops and I are getting his new work truck up to snuff. Not sure what GM was thinking with their RWAL system in the 88-94 trucks..but its a pain to get the brakes working right.

 

You can't get a good HEI module anymore. If your Oldsmobile had OE HEI, make sure you keep a NOS HEI module in the glove box.

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-1-day-189097/

 

Still gotta solve nasty intermittent fuel leak at carb inlet.

 

I see. You realize you will have have all that "heavy maintenance" required with points ? Connect a dwell meter every year or two and check dwell ? You may have to tweak the dwell a degree or two that takes 5 minutes.. I do keep a spare set of points at home in the tool box, but I never believed in carrying around a trunk full of repair parts. Good luck.

 

I think I'll look at the electric window gearboxes in the Toronado and Starfire and re-lubricate them. Maybe start on an engine for my '57 Olds. Then maybe squeeze in some time to lube firearms.

 

Like a few others mentioned, I can drive my project cars year round...well, mostly. We usually get a couple of days of light snow. I've actually been using my Olds as the daily driver for the past month! Our son's truck is in the shop, so he's using my wife's Tahoe and she's using my truck. I usually drive my LS2 swapped '87 Monte SS a couple of times per week but the starter has been acting up recently, the Bendix is hanging up for second after it fires up so it makes a nasty grinding sound ( just for a second).

 

After driving the new build all summer, there's a smallish list of things that need attention apart from the bigger items I was aware of, so will be dealing with stuff like sun visors that won't stay up, etc...but the big jobs will be cleaning the seat frames and getting the new upholstery installed, and figuring out why my front end sits way too high. The goal will be for a bit of a nose down rake stance instead of an always looks like it's launching stance!

The '71 Survivor car needs a lot of attention too...exhaust manifold gasket is blown out and 4 out of 5 bolts don't want to budge. Fun.

 

Thank you Matt, if I do go this route I will document here with a dedicated thread.

Olds64 a good friends dad had a early 80s Cutlass Cruiser Wagon with the 4.3 V8. Just spoke to him about this recently. He told me his dad always kept a spare in the glovebox and that the modules seemingly went once a year. The car was a real driver and this is going way back. I can confirm time frame if you like.

Ralph I understand your points (no pun intended), but at the same time those magnificent cars in your signature should never have been/be corrupted with an HEI. Adding a weak link that can go bad at the drop of a hat into an otherwise ideal car. Even though its possibly the best thing to come out of malaise era tech. It can randomly get you stuck without notice at any time. Points may need maintenance, but we, our dads, and grandads managed just fine. And points do not mimic a killswitch the way a module does.

P.S. even though my friend thinks points are more reliable with proper upkeep. He does have an HEI managing his pro built 454. And as I've said many a time if I am ever lucky enough to own a nice stock 1976 455 442 I would never alter its distributor.

 

New IDIDIT Tilt Column (Factory column is difficult to get in and out of car for an old guy)
Replace all brake lines and rear calipers
Replace fuel lines back to the in-tank fuel pump
New convertible top and gaskets
New door panels Realign glass to fit new top

 

I am going to remove the heads to have the machining done for vitron guide seals to be installed, and at the same time replace my 15 year old roller lifters with new evolution rollers I bought. I figure it's a good time to check things out as far as pistons, the walls and valves are concerned. Probably change the gear lube in the Richmond 5 overdrive, it's as old as the engine rebuild, 15 years.

 

I have a motor swap to do over the winter, I will get some pics up in my thread when this happens.

 

Hmm , hope to get the engine in the 88 rebuild and back in the car so i can drive this car more but
hopefully this will be in the spring / early summer. The 98 have worked fine but a rustprotection
under the car would be nice and a temp gauge.

There are a lot of other things that should be done also but time will tell.

 

Just got one minor project done, a very minor thing that could have turned into a real headache. In another post I mentioned the rebuilder of a distributor I bought used a "one way" screw for the ignition module. This has been giving me fits as that distributor install was over 15 years ago and with it the episode of the oil pump rod falling off and falling straight into the oil pan. Earlier this week I was determined to get that screw out using whatever means necessary. If I failed I had the option of pulling the entire distributor and replacing it with either a rebuilt spare, or, a genuine NOS out of the box Delco distributor (the number on the box indicated it was correct for a 79 Hurst Olds so I really did not want to use it). Or, dremel the entire screw head off, not a good option. I wound up using a screw extractor (EZ out), got lucky and the screw got loose and removed. I used the two phillips head screws from the rebuilt distributor. So now when that module fails, and it will fail someday, it will be a 10 minute replace instead of being stranded somewhere.

What a cruel joke that was, the rebuilder using a screw like that. This module is long past its sell by date and it is a matter of time before it fails.

 

Installed a rebuilt Dualjet on the blue 79, obtained from E-Bay, my issues with a flat spot in the acceleration have been totally eliminated. Car now runs smooth as glass at any rpm, and no more studdering on acceleration. Relieved to know it all probably was due to a bad accelerator pump and not a vacuum leak. Looks like I'll be putting off installing a 350 in there, for another decade maybe. As long as my (rebuilt) 260 wheezer runs this well, it stays in the car. Next stop: high speed vibration between 60-70mph (see other thread).

 

Good progress, Gene. Keeping the 260 around isn't a bad thing, my original engine was the 260 and it was dead on reliable and would hold 75mph all day long. My dad loved taking the car up to Maine to visit family years ago when he and mom were the owners.

I haven't done a thing to the car yet, been driving it now and then as opportunities present themselves. My last ride was a few days ago, but that's it for the time being. We got 4 inches of snow yesterday and the roads are salted and sanded now. Been some real cold temps as well. I did two oil changes this morning (kids cars) and the stove barely got the garage to 40 with an outside temp on 15 degrees. I should have waited a little while we broke freezing shortly after noon when the sun came out of the clouds. Hopefully get a few things done this week.

 

Thanks Mike, here in SC we are 12 month car drivers, and winters are short here. The wife is impressed with how the car is now running, a huge plus as you know and I'd therefore never be able to justify placing in a 350. Oh well. I found a shop that hopefully can address the vibration issue, that's next. I get this resolved, then I've really got something here.

Also, in the spirit of this thread, another winter project I need to have done (push has come to shove): it is imperative I get the oil leak fixed in the main seal of my 1994 Cutlass Supreme SL (3.4). For this the engine is going to need to come out, so this will not be cheap. While it is out I will have the 3 coils and the Alternator replaced as well as a new oil pan gasket. I have an NOS set of coils and an NOS Alternator. The coils are the originals. I think I'm on my 5th Alternator for this car but it makes sense to place in another new one due to its location on the motor. The timing belt and the intake manifold gaskets were replaced in 2021 and have only just under 10,000 miles on them, so no issues there. This car is going in the Senior Class at the Nats in 2026. But more importantly, its leaking oil so badly that until that's fixed, no more long trips.

 

Replacing all of the original suspension components in my 98% original 1969. Hate to do it but I plan on driving the car more next summer.

 

I am Hoping for many things to get done this winter. The first thing is to get a new radiator but I want to go Stock looking she has AC not working yet. The second thing is new carpeting and sill plates. The trouble I have is after pulling up the carpet what should be doing with floor pan. Clean ,paint new insulator pad ?
I bought a factory clock last year that needs to be installed. I would also like to get a factory trunk release from the glove box. I have the button and some wiring but not the actual trunk release. The under dash lights installed. I would like to upgrade my dash lights. I had them replaced to new factory last year but still not liking.it ..My buddy says to go a 4w bulb I don't want Goofy colors, just brighter factory. The list keeps going but for early spring I hope to get it done. Then Hopefully get to the Nationals this year!!!
1973 Cutlass Supreme Grand Ma's

 

Recover seats (done)
Lay down sound deadening (done)
Replace shifter with correct Hurst 442 shifter
Order/ install front console bracket
Replace carpet
Remove and replace door panels
Install water shields
Adjust/lube door and side windows
Install all of the other interior pieces- door handles, window cranks, etc.
Replace rear view mirror with correct one
Replace gauge lights with LEDs (done)
Get speedometer working (speedo cable was unplugged at speedometer)
Get rally gauge functional
Fix fuel gauge (see fuel tank).
Figure out radio dynamics- blue tooth, speakers, etc.
Replace door weather strips
Add a third seat belt set up to the rear seat
Install correct, wood grain steering wheel- get horn to work

Remove and strip fuel tank (done)
Ohm out fuel sender (way out of spec- replaced with a correct 90 ohm)
Replace fuel vent(s) filter
Figure out fuel return line/ plumbing
Box and install lower control arms (done)
Order and install rear end stiffners (almost done)
Tack weld loose muffler to tail pipe
Adjust emergency brake cable- it's rattling on the exhaust
Shorten tailpipes to bring trumpets closer to the bumper cut outs
Detail and install disc brake set up

Rebuild a quadrajet and install
Detail air cleaner
Cut inner fenders for OAI hoses
Install OIA set up
Wash and detail engine bay
Time, tune, lube, oil...

Adjust hood
Install various trim pieces that are needed
Buff the paint
Put on the correct, argent "Oldsmobile" trunk lid molding
Pull PS fender out- some old lady backed into it at the gas station... No damage, thankfully... just pushed in the fender at the lower bolts.

That's about it... LOL

 

On my 1970 Cutlass S, did a bunch of body work. Basically coated stripped down then coated the body in metal reinforced filler. Now in Rust Destroyer red primer. I hope to get a Maaco single stage type paint job in the factory Sherwood Green. Next I changed the gear oil, was going to go 85W140, bought it, was not posi approved. So I exchanged for 2 bags of Vavoline Synthetic 75W140 with a bit of 85W140 I had left. Some metal but less than than the initial break in and the pattern looks fine, no noise and posi certainly works. Next on the Olds 358, going back to the V belt set up from the sbc serpentine setup with adapters, which was eating belts, only on the passenger side, spacing out 3 washers only slightly improved it. Pressed off the serpentine power steering pulley, used my 88 Cutlass V belt brackets also with metric hardware, replaced with a chrome dual groove power steering pulley. Also billet water pump and crank pullies. I also added a plug in 1 wire conversion for my 10 DN 80 amp chrome Summit aIternator to replace the current CS130. I modifed a Dorman AMC thermostat housing with threaded port for my Davies Craig fan controller running the Plymouth Breeze dual fans. Going on a new 7111 intake. I already fully tuned this Qjet. I am opening the secondary air door from 1.240" to 1.270" for the more powerful Olds 358. For the more powerful part, swapping the big intake valve #6 iron heads and Edelbrock 204/214 cam. Going with a custom 218/218 .541/.541 with the Harland Sharp 1.65 ratio rocker arms on a 112 LSA. Also using one of the first sets of Comp Evolution hydraulic roller lifters. I contacted Comp for the updated C clips thst don't contact the 3/8" push rods I need, calling today to get them coming. I just sent Cutlassefi the rest of money for one of the first sets of new Edelbrock 68cc small block heads. Hoping for about 100 HP and a similar TQ gain. Already tearing down the top of the motor, should be down when the heads arrive. Also running a Chinese billet distributor with an Accel Brute Thunder red and white coil, brass cap and Moroso module, Accel 8.8 25 ohm plug wires with 90 degree ceramic boots and NGK Ruthieum spark plugs. Planning 40 degrees total plus vacuum advance on 91. Mark's mule ran best with similar 9.3 to 1 compression.

 

Converted all (4) interior courtesy lamp bulbs to LED in my 79 H/O. all look great. Used a 912 LED instead of the 906 for the lower front bulbs, works fine. I'm using the Sylvania cool white as the brand of choice. Alot less heat and alot less juice used, a total win.

Also, I adjusted my 8 track tape speed motor, again, and hopefully for the last time. No more helium singers. Now all functions of this AM/FM Stereo/8 Track/CB are working as they should, as is the power tri-band antenna. For now. Let's see what stays working when this car is taken back out of storage in a few months.