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You'll want separate paint for the engine, transmission and differential. The engine paint kit is sold in a pint. I painted a 455, Chrysler blue years ago before they had any Oldsmobile colors. The pint covered the engine without much leftover. I'd buy a pint for the engine and a pint for the transmission at least. For the frame you'll undoubtedly need more.
I already have the correct color engine paint from super cars. I was just trying to figure out how much do I need to have on hand for when I get my frame back.
Is there anyway you can have your frame powder coated instead of the Por-15?
its not that I don’t like it…its just if you’re going through the trouble of a frame off sand blast…you may want to go all the way.
Youll get superior results with powder coating.
Paint Over Rust 15 is not designed for bare metal and will flake off. It is a rust converter and paint mixed together. As mentioned, powdercoat is the best or, get it shot in 2K epoxy. VHT makes a rollbar and chassis spray bomb, too. Even Rustoleum would work better.
I had headers and valve covers powder coated in the past. It took the shop 3 tries to get the powder coating right on my valve covers. The powder coating on the headers just incinerated after years of use.
Fleming is correct; POR15 is a rust convertor/paint system that is designed to be applied over rusty metal surfaces. It you have blasted back to bare metal, there are better ways to refinish the frame, and POR15 isn't the best way to do this. I had my frame blasted and powder coated, but if I had to do it again I would use the 2k paints, it's easier to touch-up the finish if you scratch the finish.