RWB

I have removed the landau vinyl top from my '74 Cutlass Supreme and as expected there is the usual damage; some pitting, a few holes etc. but nothing in my opinion that absolutely necessitates a metal fix so eventually filler is where I'm headed with it. I would like to at least refinish the area at/near the glass sealing surface of the rear & quarter windows myself so that I can have the glass re-installed before the rest of the body is prepped and painted. I am also contemplating sandblasting the area where the top was and at least getting a start priming it and filling the holes and letting a body shop finalize it at the same time they prep the rest of the body.

My questions;
Is this a good idea?
If so, What kind of primer do I use considering the metal would be clean?
What kind of filler should I use?
Does the primer go on first as I would assume or does the body filler go on directly to the bare metal?

I know this may be blasphemy but I plan to replace the vinyl with a painted surface that somewhat mimics a covering. It might look similar to some of the finishes on SUV's with removeable tops so there is not a tremendous amount of pressure to finish the surface to the 10's. Maybe to the 9's.

Yes, I got the vinyl and the glue off just fine.
Thanks ahead of time for any advice.
-Bob

J-(Chicago)

If the metal is thick, you can get away with sandblasting. Sometimes it warps things if they are too thin.
I personally like the yellow Dyna De lite body filler.
It recommends that the filler be applied to bare metal and not over a primer. I have done both, but haven't seen a 10 years after result though, so I'd ask a body man.
You should use a glazeing putty over the filler before you prime.
a self etching primer is probably your best bet

I am Rhino lining the top of my car. heh

RWB

Holy crap! That was the car I was looking for before I found my Cutlass.....a Delta 88 2door from the early 80's.

Thanks man....that's what I'll probably end up doing....asking a body guy somewhere.

I just don't want to take it in eventually for an estimate and have some body man tell me "OH! ....Shouldn't done that" because I used some kind of primer that explodes on contact with normal automotive paint.

I'm not looking forward to this. I'm sort of thinking ahead and kinda' shut down for the winter here. You'd know, you're from Chicago, just look out the window it's probably sleeting right now.

I love the "Keep it ugly and it won't get stolen" thing.

RWB

Didn't the Dyna De-Lights play at the Double Door a few years ago?

Olds64

Definitely talk to a body professional. If there is rust on it make sure it is ALL GONE before adding filler or painting over it. I would suggest using navel jelly on it to remove the rust entirely.

J-(Chicago)

Lol I thought you were in the army

Olds64

Why do you think they call it "Navel" jelly. Army guys sure don't use it for that.

Dapapadon

RWB - You may want to talk to a body shop before you do anything. Today's modern paints are considered "Systems". DuPont's paint requires Dupont prime, surfacer & sealer. PPG's systems are the same, their paint, their primers, sealer & surfacers. Your thought that the body man will say: "Oh.. shouldn't done that" is right on the money. Most quality shops won't shoot over questionable primer. If they do, expect "ZERO" guaranty. As in, "My paint started peeling two weeks later" your up the creek & stuck with it.

I don't know about other places, but here in the northwest complete paint jobs are around $5000. That's if you can find a shop to do it.

I don't like spending that kind'a money. I work on mine at the local community college.

Don

dallas6778

dont skimp on the filler or primer. i always use evercoat products, prefer the rage line. you can put it on bare metal but make sure it is A) very clean B) rust free and C) has enough texture for the material to grab. todays plastic body fillers will stand up pretty well and as long as you dont apply them over grease or get them wet before ive seen guys get away with putting them on over even a lil rust (provided it is quality filler and paint.) go with self etch followed by light block sanding, then a primer sealer. after that you can choose to apply another primer or go straight to basecoat.