Troys Toy 70

Tonight, I pulled the left front inner fender, and overall I have been pleased with the results. Granted she is a 42 year old, but I think that overall the rust demon has been kind to her.

I sometimes wonder if this is all going to be worth it; money and time spent and all. But then you get the bonus tool a rusted wooden handled screwdriver!!! and I thought you could search your whole life for one of these. It was hiding at the bottom of the fender.

Troys Toy 70

Just to see what happens, I ran a wire brush on the ol Dewalt for about a minute on two spots to see what would happen. A little piting, but I think she will clean up nice.

Lady72nRob71

I found it was all worth it when i did all that - get that drill and brush out and giterdone!
This is like deja vu all over again...

Troys Toy 70

Yea, I think I dated her once...never let anything go.....kept bringing it up over and over again!

Sorry, I couldn't resist. Bored and waiting on my ride home.

Troys Toy 70

Well, Friday the 27th, got control arms painted see pictures below. Last Sunday was almost a good day. Wife came down to the garage and helped me install the ball joint and bushings into the control arms. Got the bushing put in the LCA, and one of the ball joints. Man are those things tight. The second one I blew out the bottom. I think what happen is that I had a sock over the tube to protect the paint, and I doubled it up on the second one, because the first one got scratched a little bit. Evidently, I did not allow enough slack and it must have shoved the shaft to the base of the tube instead of allowing it to go through the hole in the bottom. (see pick) new ball joint ordered and pressed in yesterday (no sock this time)


Here is where I need help.
Last Sunday, we got the one side of the the UCA bushings pressed in, got the other side started but couldn't get it to drive in. Tried again yesterday. Spent a lot of time pounding, started with a framing hammer, 2lb hammer, 3lb baby sledge but could not get it to go in. Any suggestions??

Lady72nRob71

On that last UCA bushing, Here is how I did it...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post295618

Make sure there is NO paint in the bushing holes. If there is, lightly sand it out.
After the shaft was inserted, a tad of oil put on the upper bushing shell and with the edge supported with a solid wood block i hammered it in. You need a hardwood to do it.


The key is to make sure you are pounding on the metal bushing shell (not the rubber) and you are doing the work on a solid concrete surface. If the thing is bouncing around when you whack it, something is wrong.
I used the 3lb sledge and it took some hard whacks.

Troys Toy 70

I have come to the conclusion that my wrenches only turn counter clockwise. Long story short, I have pulled the hood, radiator support, and fenders. AND......now the framehorns are painted. Got a bad case of the MAW's!!!!
Engine and Firewall on the to do list now.

At any rate, here is some pictures.

Lady72nRob71

Hate to tell you but there is no stopping it now...
You are doing it the right way though, to really get it restored nicely at one time. Might as well restore all the other parts while they are off, like the radiator and the support. Grilles and related brackets, etc.
That big dirty orange thing needs to come out, too, for detailing. That will also give more room to do the firewall and that nasty A/C box.
Brake booster will have plenty of room to come off, too!
Keep up the good work - you will be proud in the end!

Troys Toy 70

Rob!!!!!.........., Thanks for the encouragement, but slow down here a minute. A couple of questions for you. Did you top coat your frame after the Por15? Also, I would like to get her wheels back on, any tips? Flat side of spring up, bottom covers half of drain hole, and what else? On the LCA, are they tight going back in? Before I painted, I put one up to see how it fit, and it went in a little way, then the rubber snugged up against the sides. I think it will go in, ok with a little coxing, but I wondered if you put anything on them to help them go in?

RetroRanger

Troy

I just did this stuff, I used the POR15 chassis coat on top of the por15 looks great maybe 40% gloss like a satin finish.

yes on your springs

LCAs are a little snug w new bushings, I wiggled and pushed and tapped them w rubber mallet

Troys Toy 70

Good to know. I think i will top coat. I wanted to be sure about the LCA, before I finalized. By the way, Love the 72 CS. The Viking Blue/ White Top was mine 20 odd years ago. What all did you do the front end?

jeffsims

I have been searching through forums for any centerlink info. Can the ball joints on each end of the centerline be replaced or do I need to purchase a new centerlink?

Lady72nRob71

Hey - sorry I missed this post!!

Yes on the springs - you got it

If too snug, you can use a tad of silicone lube on the rubber to make them go in easier. NEVER use petroleum based lube on rubber unless you like squeaks.


This is what I did. Looks great. Just keep brake fluid off of it!

Need to buy a new link. I suggest a Moog part from Rockauto.

RetroRanger

Thanks its #24 nordic blue it did have a vinyl top maybe this one was yours ?

I replaced the upper and lower CA bushings, all ball joints, springs and POR 15 w POR 15 top coat on CAs and frame, late last year I added a 1 1/4 fr sway bar w poly bushings and links and got new boxed rear lcas w poly bushings and a 1 rear sway bar and new springs

its all back together now and riding smooth I really like how the suspenson is firmed up

Troys Toy 70

I followed Rob's lead and got the Moog. The moog centerlink is $60, ACDelco $40 at Rockauto.