how do you replace the front springs safely on a 1972 cutlass and are these control arms in th rear equip-able with a rear sway bar?


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The spring has to be compressed with a spring compression tool. Do not think you can just drop the control arms many have been hurt and things damaged by springs shooting out un controlled. Just done the front of mine and try to get someone who has done it befor to help you.

 

I just jacked my front springs into place when I did my Chevelle 30 years ago, but I was a dumb kid, and I wouldn't recommend it. It CAN be done, though.

As far as the rears, those look like unboxed arms. There's a kit with spacers, that would allow you to install a stock-type bar, and there are also aftermarket setups that contain the needed parts with the bar. I will leave it for others to say whether those setups are as good as the original boxed arms, but I did use them on my Skylark, and they worked great.

- Eric

 

i could get a compress tool but should i still get a pro to do it and should i buy after market lower arms

 

You need an internal spring compressor. This is not difficult nor particularly dangerous if you use common sense. We can't tell on the rear arms from the photos you posted because from that angle they are all the same and they all have the holes. The boxed arms have a plate welded on the bottom. The fact that your car doesn't have a rear bar makes me think you do not have the boxed lower control arms.

 

Here's some pics of mine going in. Used spring compressor and a strap to pull spring straight, tends to bow out when compressed. Used floor jack to bring up control arm which acted as another safety measure.

 

You might do a search. The topic on spring replacement has been discussed in some detail. The stiffest springs are short and can be dropped right in, but lighter tension coils are too long and must be compressed some; about 15.5" to 16" long will go in. I used a compressor and then 3/16" thick steel straps with bent over ends, about 6" or so long to retain the springs while installing them. Be sure the ends are bent a little over 90 degrees so they can't pop off. Otherwise, the internal compressor will work. although the shop manual said to take the lower A arm apart at the pivot bolts, that didn't work well for me and I pop the ball joint out the the spindle.

 

Funny you should mention that Joe. I recently picked up the factory Burroughs Tool for installing the springs this way. You are supposed to actually put the nut on the ball joint studs first, then install the spring. The tool is a long threaded shaft with a crank handle and a roller thrust bearing that goes below the lower control arm. The threaded rod goes up through the upper shock hole and is retained with a nut. Turn the crank and the spring is compressed, bringing the lower control arm bushings into place. The nice thing about doing it this way is that you don't bend the spring while you compress it to get the control arm in place. Also, with the tool up the center of the spring, the spring can't come loose and fly out. No, I haven't had the chance to try it yet.