Joffroi

I have a leak somewhere on my tank, but only when I drive my 68 442, not when it sits. Its coming from the top of the tank and drips down on the drivers side of the tank. The tank looks fine so I think the gas is coming from the sending unit somewhere. I want to go ahead and drop my tank to see whats going on. I already emptied it and disconnected the fuel lines and wires. I started working on trying to get the bolts off, but the top nut seems to be rusted up against the bolt. The bolt is lose (I can at least rotate that), but when hold the nut in place with a wrench the thing wont budge.

Any ideas on how I can loosen then nut? The angle and exhaust location is also making this a nice challenge.

Below is one of the bolts in question. I've been spraying it down with WD40 for the past couple of days with no luck.

I've read applying Coke or using a small blowtorch for heat helps, but fire around the gas tank (even practically empty) makes me nervous.

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Sampson

That is the most aggravating bolt on the whole car. Take a hack saw or disc grinder and cut the damn thing in half and be done with it. You can get replacements from any of the repop places. I got mine from The Parts Place. Good luck

69ishHoliday

The gas tank might be even more apt to ignite mostly empty. Some people might use a torch but the vapors could be devastating. Hack saw or nut splitter if one will get in there.

MDchanic

I've had trouble with this bolt, myself. I've had success using a whizzer. It fit in the space surprisingly well.

Replaced the nuts and bolts with stainless steel, for "next time."

- Eric

nsnarsk65cutlass

Cut off wheel just be careful since its leaking gas.Nick

Joffroi

Thanks for the advice. I'll just get whatever size hacksaw I can find that I can fit there and replace the bolts later.

brddg

hey jeffroi. I would grab the nut with some vice-grips and work the screw back and forth (try some cutting oil and see if it's better than penetrant) until it will give you some thread. You may have to use a cheater bar or long breaker bar. Remember, force it, if it breaks probably needed replacing anyway.

ELY442

If the bolt gives you a hard time just cut the strap off. Its replaceable.

m371961

What's a whizzer?

MDchanic

- Eric

Allan R

The nut on the other end of that clip is spot eluded to the clip. Chances are you've broken the tack on the welds. IIRC the are 1/2"? They were tough to get off on my 72 also. Don't be afraid to just over torque the bolt and bust it.

I would not cut the tank strap, the OEM ones are galvanized and better quality than repros.

This is just one of those situations where you need to test your guns against the rusty old bolt. It will give up, one way or another. Maybe try some PB Baster, it's a better agent to free up stuck bolts/nuts.

Joffroi

Ended up using the hacksaw and got the tank off. Posted pictures and information on my restoration thread. Thanks for the advice.

Joffroi

I had another question. For replacing the bolts, nuts, and the rubber lines, am I OK getting those form a hardware / auto store or is it more beneficial to find them at fusiks or parts place?

Junkman

Hardware is fine to use no matter where you procure it. As for the rubber gasoline line, I would purchase it from a auto supply store. The reason is that a restoration supplier might have older stock that isn't as resistant to the chemicals that are being supplied with modern gas. I have a rubber tee on the gas line in one of my cars, and the restoration supplier, has had to change the rubber compounds a number of times to keep up with the changes in the gasoline changes. The old ones turn to mush after a few months, and need to be replaced with the latest production product.

MDchanic

Fasteners: Hardware store.
Hoses: Auto parts store. Don't get the "Fuel Injection Rated" hoses - they're much more expensive and completely unnecessary.

- Eric

junior supercar

for reference, in looking at that first pic, it looks like you sprayed the WD40 on the wrong part of the threads. The nut is on top and the end of the threads, not the middle, needs PB Blaster/WD-40. These are a pain in the butt to remove, unless you buy nice dry state cars. I've cut off and busted my share trying to save them. Also for reference, the reproduction bolt kits the parts houses have aren't 100% correct.

Allan R

I bought a set of repro's for my car and the only thing I noticed that wasn't correct was the rear strap bolt. It wasn't collared like the OEM. But everything else worked nicely.

Still have the OEM tank bolts that were cleaned up but not used.

Joffroi - when you go to install the tank, even if you use the original tank/straps? It will seem like nothing really 'fits' right anymore. Don't worry, it will. Start by threading the tank bolts in a few threads. Then, as you tighten them down, the straps will contour to match the tank. Tighten each one till it's 'snug' then go side to side and finish tigtening till there's no gaps between the straps and tank. Don't 'overtighten' though. It's a feel and visual thing.

junior supercar

also not a bad time to get one of those outstanding gas tank mats 70Post offers. I got your back Patton :-)


the clip with the nut was different too. I may have older stock also as it was a few years ago.

Allan R

I still have all my OEM stuff. It cleaned up nice in the sandblaster. The nuts on the clips broke the tack weld when I was trying to undo them. Never bothered to weld em back up. Funny, when I compared the OEM's to the repro clip/nuts they looked pretty close to bang on.

Joffroi

So I've slowly had a little time here and there to get more bolts off, order the new tank, etc.... Although I will probably just buy a new one, I would like to take the old sending unit off my old tank. Nothing really seems to want to move. Should I just be able to take a flat head and gently hammer the section counter clockwise?

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Reference image
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droldsmorland

Please use caution when doing anything around gas that could ignite it, you, the car and the garage! Empty the tank and fill it with H20 then grind, cut or toarch away. If PB doesnt get it no penetrant will. WD40 isnt a penetrant IMO. An impact is how I removed them with finesse on a dry car. Same finess with the rear bolts. On a rust bucket it gets cut with a cut off wheel
Spectra makes a Canadaian made tank. All others are offshore. I wont put offshore anything on my cars especially a gas tank.
Use a dab of antiseize on the bolts on the way back in. You wont have this problem the next time.

allyolds68

Gently tap it alternating from one tab to another.

MDchanic

+1. There are three tabs, and if you only hit one, you will **** it sideways.

I'm not sure if I agree with the "gently" part, though - sometimes these things need a good shot to loosen up.

Also, if you do decide to reuse, they sell the retaining ring and the giant O-ring seal separately.

- Eric

Allan R

The retaining ring and O ring come with the new tank. They also come with most new senders. At least that's what I found when I bought new Spectra Tank, and new ILT fuel sender.