Fuel Lines
Fuel Lines
Hello,
Does any one have a good way to install new fuel lines from fuel pump to tank. What a job it was to get them out..... cant inagine how to get them back in and and in reasonable condition. As always any input would be appreciated !
Thank in advance !
Does any one have a good way to install new fuel lines from fuel pump to tank. What a job it was to get them out..... cant inagine how to get them back in and and in reasonable condition. As always any input would be appreciated !
Thank in advance !
This is how we did it on my '68 4-4-2. It wasn't easy but we got the fuel lines installed intact - didn't have to cut them. We did need a lift to do it but it worked.
First, we put the car up on the lift. Second, we loosened the frame-to-body bolts - all of them. We didn't completely remove them - there were still threads into each nut. Third, we took a tranny jack, put a piece of plywood on the top of up, and pushed up on the body at the trunk (gas tank removed). What that did was lift the body just far enough off the frame so we could feed the fuel lines between the frame and the body at the passenger rear wheel opening (wheel removed for easy access). We fed the lines forward as far as we could and then had to do a little bending to get the back part of the lines between the body and frame and then routed to their approximate positions near where the gas tank would be. Having the body raised slightly from the frame also allowed us to use the clip and bolt to fasten the fuel lines to the frame about mid-way up the forward part of the frame rise for the rear axle on the passenger side.
Once everything was in place, we lowered the body down to the frame and tightened the frame-to-body bolts. Once the gas tank was re-installed, it took a little adjustment but we got the fuel lines positioned to where they had to be.
We used new rubber fuel hoses for the connections between the metal fuel lines and the sending unit. We also used new rubber fuel lines for the vent.
Everything worked as it should once we had it all together, except for the o-ring seal for the sending unit. It leaked so we had to drop the tank again and re-set the sending unit. It seems that sometimes the o-ring binds up when installing the sending unit. We got it right the second time.
Randy C.
First, we put the car up on the lift. Second, we loosened the frame-to-body bolts - all of them. We didn't completely remove them - there were still threads into each nut. Third, we took a tranny jack, put a piece of plywood on the top of up, and pushed up on the body at the trunk (gas tank removed). What that did was lift the body just far enough off the frame so we could feed the fuel lines between the frame and the body at the passenger rear wheel opening (wheel removed for easy access). We fed the lines forward as far as we could and then had to do a little bending to get the back part of the lines between the body and frame and then routed to their approximate positions near where the gas tank would be. Having the body raised slightly from the frame also allowed us to use the clip and bolt to fasten the fuel lines to the frame about mid-way up the forward part of the frame rise for the rear axle on the passenger side.
Once everything was in place, we lowered the body down to the frame and tightened the frame-to-body bolts. Once the gas tank was re-installed, it took a little adjustment but we got the fuel lines positioned to where they had to be.
We used new rubber fuel hoses for the connections between the metal fuel lines and the sending unit. We also used new rubber fuel lines for the vent.
Everything worked as it should once we had it all together, except for the o-ring seal for the sending unit. It leaked so we had to drop the tank again and re-set the sending unit. It seems that sometimes the o-ring binds up when installing the sending unit. We got it right the second time.
Randy C.
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