navvet

I have a 64 D88 and I am planning on some front end work, specifically shocks and springs. I have been told by the mech who did my exhaust work that I should be concerned with the frame. He and others have said " these frames are strong but have a history of major rust issues". So do I need to bring it to a body shop? I am hesitant to take it to a body shop and ask them " do you see a problem". They would find something!!!
I did read an article in Hemmings of a frame rust issue. Is this true? If there are historical rust issue is there a common repair?. If the issue is serious I may skip any further work on the car. The body currently shows NO signs of a frame issue....sagging doors, changes in gaps between doors and other moving body parts.

Oldsmaniac

Frames are more likely to have rot that are in areas where salt is used in winter on the roads. The places to look are where the frame is boxed which would allow water, salt, dirt, to be trapped and rot the frame. Converts are more prone to rot because the frames are boxed and can trap dirt and water. Any mechanic that is any good can look at the frame and tap on it with a hammer to see if the metal has gone soft and is starting to peel.

joe_padavano

If this car is a convertible with the boxed frame, then you should inspect it. I've rarely seen significant rust on open channel frames from hardtops. Look specifically at the frame section where it kicks out behind the front wheels. Hit the bottom of the frame with a hammer to check for rust. If you have a problem, it will be obvious.

Octania

I have seen:

Holes big enough to throw a cat through

Heavily flaked rust, coming off in sheets

Missing sections where the metal used to be

Patched with 1/4" plate or whatnot....

Fat wide boxed section just aft of the front wheels is a good place to start... Rearmost side rails, the last 3 ft or so also. Reamost cross-piece.

joe_padavano

Yeah, see, to me that would be a sign that it's time to get out of Michigan...

Nilsson

After blending the cat throughly and you can pour it through, that is usually considered an acceptable amount of rust in Michigan.

navvet

The metal sounds solid but has the usual flaking rust. It was an iowa car and sat in MN for many years.Two states that think sand is a 4 letter word!.....salt salt every place. I have to wait 3 weeks after the last snow fall and a heavy spring rain before I take it out on the roads. Can preventative repairs be made on the frame?. I would not have an issue spending some money with a respected body man to sand, prime paint the bad areas and maybe weld angle iron or something to strengthen the weakened areas. Or am I way off and does it need a frame off resto???? Don't think the car has that much value for such an investment. Overall car is solid!!! I just want to update the shocks and springs for a safer and smoother ride.

ent72olds

Put it this way, if you can pull out large, thick chunks of flaky rust from the inside of the frame, especially this torque box areas, pass or get a new frame. Welding fresh metal to that old metal is not going to accomplish what you want.

Oldsmaniac

Usual flaking is normal and you say the metal rings solid so from that I would say your frame is good. Now if there are weak areas there is a problem. If there are weak areas the rot usually starts from within (boxed frame) so it would not be feasable to attempt to sand and prime and paint. Repairs can be made to a frame, problem is that you usually have to cut out bad sections and keep going till good metal is found. With the body on the frame this is sometimes impossible. So then if the body must come off the frame you may as well look for a good frame.

Run to Rund

Check behind the front torque boxes for cracking where the open c channel starts.

chrisneu68olds

Expanding on the frame question I found a possible candidate for restoration. The front clip has been removed, motor/trans also removed. In addition to looking for corrosion, cracks, patch welds, etc., is there a quick way to tell if there is a bend? Since the motor is out, would measurements between the frame rails in specific areas determine if there is a bend? Is this even a good approach or a waste of time?

navvet

A shop near me has agreed to let me use their extra lift first week in March. Long way off, but gives me a chance to get all my parts together. While it is up on the lift I can spend some detailed time investigating the frame. Nice thing about this arrangement with the garage is I have no limits on the duration I can keep the car on the lift. The owner has semi retired and only pumps gas now. I am going to rent a pipe camera used by plumbers
to inspect areas of the frame I can't get to. If frame is good I plan on new shocks, springs and front end updates. Quick thought: If frame is ok what are your opinions of painting the frame with "Rustex" a rusty metal inhibitor?

krooser

You won't need that camera... just a visual inspection and a small hammer will tell you everything you need to know.

Some cars have rust damage... most do not. I looked at a '66 88 a few weeks ago that a guy was scrapping because of frame rust issues... what a shame since there wasn't a rust hole anywhere but his "friends" told him the surface rust meant he had a weak frame... morons.

There are several good products out there that can be used to "encapsulate" the rust and stop it from spreading. I have used POR-15 for many years and it's a good product. Bill Hirsch and others also sell similar products. I have never heard of Rustex so I can't comment on that product.

Remember that old cars are like women... they don't have to be perfect to be fun...

navvet

The more responses the better i am feeling about the frame. If the condition is acceptable I will be spending some time on the frame. "Rustex" is a product I found while in the navy.
When applied there is a chemical reaction and it forms a "new" metal. I have used it on my old truck bed and it was very durable. The resulting coating can take all types of primers and they adhere very well. You know the surface is ready for prime and paint when it turns dark black. Only the areas that are black are ready for further work...so if any area is not black you know you need to apply another coat. It was sold at auto stores and wal-mart but they have gone to a more commercial usage. Ship tankers use it a great deal. You can buy it from the manufacturer in various quantities.If you are interested you can find on their site a PDF of the chemical make-up of the product and common uses. I appreciate the positive feedback...I so desperately want to update the shocks and springs on the old 88