RandyS

I don't have the connections or space to take the body off of my 66 442, but I have some rust showing on a couple of the floor pans. Is it possible to install some of the aftermarket replacement pieces with the body on? How about the front seat cross brace?
Thanks,
Randy

RandyS

Anyone?

67442HT

Yes, you can replace the floorpans with the body on the frame. I am not sure exactly where the floor brace goes, but you should be able to do it also.

DENT

The floor brace will be a challenge with the frame in . Unless you leave the ends of the existing brace in and butt weld the new one to the old ends.

chequenman

Your finished repair won't be what you'll be happy with if you want a quality repair. The frame really gets in your way when doing floor pans and Floor Braces. This is one of the main reasons cars are removed from the Frame is to do these repairs properly. Think hard about things thoroughly before you start, as these are large endeavors your venturing into......

RandyS

Yes, I'm finding that out. I was not originaly intending that this be a show quality resto, just a real nice driver. Discovering that there is a lot rust on the floor pans and under the back seat/rear inner wheel well area. The deeper I go, the more I find. I am pretty handy, and was hoping that I could do all or most all of this myself. I have Mig, Stick and Gas welding equipment, plus a shop full of tools. No engine hoist or stand though and not really enough spare space to house both the body and frame (all my other crap is in the way).
I take your point though, about difficulty level. I don't want to get in over my head. Couple of additional questions then......
Is it necessary to pull the drive line to lift the body off the frame?
Must the Steering Column be removed?
Must the front Fenders be removed?
How many body/frame mounting points are there that need to be undone?
Any other tips you can provide would be really appreciated.
Thanks,
Randy

allyolds68

No

No, disconnect it at the rag joint

Yes, unless you're really careful. There won't be anthing holding it at the front & I wouldn't want to pick up the whole core support too.


3 or 4 on each side. You should download a copy of the assembly manual


If you look at the thread in my sig you can get the idea of what I did in limited space with limited equipment. One of the biggest problems is getting the body mounts unbolted because they are so rusty. Cage nuts turn and break off making removal a PIA. The biggest problem is once you get the body off you're likely to find it's a lot worse than you thought

Delmont 88 PA

A full size Olds, at least a '67 Delmont 88, has 2 mounts under the cowl, 1 under the door (on a 2 door), 1 under the front of the quarter, 1 on the top of the frame directly above the differential and 1 at the very rear of the frame (accessible from below and in the trunk) on each side of the vehicle. Out of all these bolts there was only one that broke--a bolt on the driver's side front mount.

Just did this yesterday and today so it's fresh in my memory....

therobski

There are a some choices out 1/4 1/2 pans etc. there depending on how much you need to replace. One thing to keep in mind is the condition of the floor braces, in my case there were gone. Either the front brace or the center floor brace is welded to the rocker panel, (Can't remember off hand) if that's shot you need to remove the body. Then again depending on the severity you can replace floor pans with out removing the body. Look at my post in the "major projects" under 64 F85 "Rustbucket" it may give you some ideas. This is the worst case scenario. I do not want to do this again ( OKAY, TO SAVE ANOTHER POST CAR I WILL)
IMG_0691.jpg
IMG_0270.jpg
trunk-1.jpg

therobski

There are a some choices out 1/4 1/2 pans etc. there depending on how much you need to replace. One thing to keep in mind is the condition of the floor braces, in my case there were gone. Either the front brace or the center floor brace is welded to the rocker panel, (Can't remember off hand) if that's shot you need to remove the body. Then again depending on the severity you can replace floor pans with out removing the body. Look at my post in the "major projects" under 64 F85 "Rustbucket" it may give you some ideas. This is the worst case scenario. I do not want to do this again ( OKAY, TO SAVE ANOTHER POST CAR I WILL)
IMG_0691.jpg
IMG_0270.jpg
trunk-1.jpg

bdub217

Red lines = bracing.

Blue lines = new floor sheet metal.

Bad/good?


Hopefully his arent that bad, if it's small sections shouldnt be too bad to cut out and replace .... you could use a "v" butt weld just tack that sucker up and start layin some beads down!

therobski

Hundreds of tiny spot welds, afraid to run a solid bead-heat warp-then ground them down and seam sealed.
IMG_0693.jpg
IMG_0695.jpg

bdub217

welding is an art in the least. i'm okay at it, i make solid welds just not the prettiest.

RandyS

Now try to picture 3 out of 4 pans just like that one........... it's lovely. I think I am going to look for another body to use instead of rebuilding the entire floor of this one.............

therobski

I would most likely would have too. My incentive too stay with this car is one: F-85 "post cars" are hard to find and I got screwed on the purchase from the seller on Evil-Bay. I am a novice at welding, fact this is was third incentive to keep this car is I bought a new Millermatic 180 and learned how to weld somewhat. But these pans are thin and a solid weld can warp the material, and burn through to cold of weld will not melt the solid bead. weld together properly. The weld can look pretty like stacked dimes but will not hold. I talked to some restoration centers and this is the pathway I took.

chequenman

U have to use 23 Gauge Wire and turn the voltage and wire speed down and start practising on pieces you don't need. Start boosting the voltage and Wire Speed to where everything works good for U. Once U find the setting that works for U try welding the real parts together!!

RandyS

O.K., I have decided to take the body off of the frame to work on the floor pans, etc. I will be using an engine hoist to lift the body off, one end at a time. What are the recommended attachment points at the front and rear of the body?

chequenman

If you are really going to try to lift each end of the body with an engine hoist you'll bend your already weak body amd possibly kink the roof!!
If you can't get the long time use of a two post hoist, or the best thing is an "A" Frame. Lifting points should be at your Hood Hinge attachments points at the front Cowl after you've removed the front clip.
Your second place to lift from is again from above and then use straps that you can attach to the Rockers (if they are strong enough) and if not the strap must go completely around the underside of body and re-attach again from the overhead means of lifting. The place on the Rockers should be just a little ahead of the rear wheel well opening. When and if you get this far, keep the doors and windows closed. If you need access into the car remove the door you want to have access, and install a support in the door jam to keep the body in alignment. This shoud be done prior to lifting the body. Kinks in Roof Panels are hard to repair....
This is a major undertaking for any Novice!! Good Luck