Body off required?

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Old Jul 17, 2022 | 08:43 AM
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android 211's Avatar
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Body off required?

I'm trying to get a '66 442 back on the road after it sat many years outside with no engine or trans. Do I have to take the body off the frame to replace the fuel lines and brake lines? The car came from Nevada and while its far from rust free
the frame is very smooth and unpitted, the body mount bushings aren't destroyed either.
Old Jul 17, 2022 | 08:53 AM
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Sugar Bear's Avatar
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What level of originality are you aiming for?
Old Jul 17, 2022 | 11:40 AM
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Doing this right now on my 66 cutlass, Brake lines can be done without the body coming off. I could see no way of doing the fuel lines in one piece without the body off, so I split in the middle of the passenger door and the front thru the frame was still a pain .
Old Jul 17, 2022 | 12:58 PM
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The car is going to receive a 455 so originality isn't of utmost importance, no. I'm changing several things. Safety is important.
Old Jul 18, 2022 | 05:59 AM
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I think you'll thank yourself for removing the body and you can see everything in place. Makes replacing some suspension easier as well.
Old Jul 18, 2022 | 06:19 AM
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If you're not going for original...why even begin to hassle with metal line?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-11966r?rrec=true
Old Aug 4, 2022 | 07:37 AM
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Pigs Fly Garage's Avatar
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Nah

Originally Posted by android 211
I'm trying to get a '66 442 back on the road after it sat many years outside with no engine or trans. Do I have to take the body off the frame to replace the fuel lines and brake lines? The car came from Nevada and while its far from rust free
the frame is very smooth and unpitted, the body mount bushings aren't destroyed either.
I just did this the other day. I made a video of my "process." My kids put it on the tiktok @pigsflygarage is where you can watch. Basically, I dropped the tank, took out body mount bolts in the rear crossmember brace, body mounts hidden by the tank, used an air wedge bag between the frame and the body to lift just enough to feed the main and return fuel lines through the rear pass wheel well to the front, then worked the crazy bend at the rear up and over the rear shock mount. It wasn't particularly hard, but does take time. Hardest part was the body mount bolts. I had to cut access to hold the caged nuts from spinning on the driver side. The "cage" welds broke and so the square nut was spinning. Reach out with any questions.
Old Aug 4, 2022 | 10:04 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Rallye469
If you're not going for original...why even begin to hassle with metal line?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-11966r?rrec=true
For the whole length? Sorry, that's a really bad idea. For brakes, the flex line (even teflon-lined flex line) expands slightly under pressure. With minimal lengths of flex line this isn't noticeable. If you run it the entire length of the car, the pedal will be very mushy.
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