1971viking

Anyone running a 2 inch suspension drop with Hooker full length headers (3 inch collector)? If so what is the clearance at the flange? I have heard 4.5 inches is the absolute lowest you want. I would be at 4 inches so I think I will have problems.

ah64pilot

Just know the car, and be careful going over railroad tracks and speed bumps. I installed Moroso Trick Drag springs on my car and it dropped at least 2" and I have no problems even with the 90/10 drag shocks...but I don't drive it fast over something I suspect may cause it to bottom out. Of course, my oil pan is lower than my headers so I'll have bigger problems than a banged up header if I do bottom out

1971viking

Thanks.

I was also thinking that the 2 inch drop will not really be 2 inches based on two facts.

1. The Hotchkis springs will lower the car 2 inches. This is assuming the car is stock. I have aluminum manifold and radiator. I also removed all the A/C components.

2. My rear wheels and tires are larger than stock. (went from 255/60/15 to 295/45/18) front is the same diameter

What size dip stick are you using for your deep pan?

csouth

The 2 inches is based on stock suspension/ride height. I have seen people replace springs on older cars and the ride height went up believe it or not? Depending on the age of your current suspension(springs, shock, bushings) your results will vary.

ah64pilot

^^ This...I have seen more guys get 2" lowering springs and actually RAISE their ride height because their stock springs were worn out. In fact, most 2" drop springs aren't going to drop you 1" let alone 2". Your best bet is to do the springs and spindles to get the ride height you want.

oldcutlass

I've also seen the opposite 2" lowering springs and then they use the lowering spindles and wonder why the car bottoms out.

Stevec

I used the hotchkis tvs system and I used the 1" lowering coil springs and I'm totally happy with it. I was going to use the 2" but I am glad I used the 1" I like the way it looks and rides and you can tell its lowered just a bit.
It's a bit rough on crapy roads but on smooth roads its awesome! I swapped the steering box as well and billstein shocks all around.

1971viking

The springs I have now are 4 months old so the current ride height is legit.

scr8p

1" drop springs and full length headers with a stock height tire. best pic i can get ya.

1971viking

Wow! Your headers hang low like mine. From what I am seeing 1 inch drop is plenty when you have long tube headers and 3 inch pipe.

Toyaholic

Which is better for the street, drop springs or drop spindles?

csouth

If you don't plan on improving the suspension geometry, both will do the same thing. I would not combine a dropped spindled and lowering spring as you would kill most if not all your suspension travel. The if you want some of both(drop and suspension improvement), you could do the lowering springs and tall ball joints. The tall ball joints would help out with the negative camber issues inherent in all a bodies.

z11375ss

I just dropped mine using the 1 inch type. I am very happy the way the car sits now. After taking off so much cast iron off the front of the car it had a rake from back to front. It now sits evenly all the way around. Remember also that these springs have (I don't know the word for it) a better rate meaning they don't squish as much as stockers. It does make me nervous about the headers. I have a friend who has the same setup and as AH64Pilot pointed out you take it easy going over high or bumpy situations. Simple logic really. I have driven his car and never did the car come close to bottoming out.
Tomorrow it goes for the paint chips to be fixed. After that I should be driving it. On the 12th of never it seems! When I get it back I will post plenty of pics to show the work that was done. Radiator, electric fans, dropped, etc. See you then.

Toyaholic

Thanks. I'll be going with the tall spindles, for sure. Replacing just about all the suspension components including geo. corrected tubular a-arms. Want to go with disc brakes in the front anyway.

My car is lowered now, just gotta try to figure out how far it's been dropped. Springs were just fine with the small block blower motor, but I installed a BBO with cast heads.

Wouldn't the lowering springs make for shorter suspension travel?

csouth

Tall spindle is the way to go. If the current spindles are stock(not dropped), the easiest way is to pull a coil spring and compare its length to stock. Lowering springs will decrease your suspension travel, but will typically have a higher spring rate.
If you really want to learn more about suspensions, check this book out by Mark Savitske




Or give him call at SC&C. Just be prepared to learn more than you probably want to know...lol

Toyaholic

Good find. Thanks!

csouth

No prob...If you decide to call Mark, at least get his book and thumb through it. It provides an excellent foundation.
He's a great guy and has worked with many suspension manufacturers in design and consulting
www.scandc.com
He sells parts, but is not loyal to any brand and will tell you why one brand could be better than another. He also will help you with what fits your budget, whatever it may be.

1971viking

I don't know if I can handle the rough ride much longer. For some reason the guy installed BMR Suspension Lowering Springs SP034R. I thought he used Hotchkis. The BMR is a progressive spring so maybe that's why the ride it ruff? It feels like the suspension has limited travel. 2 inches is not that much. I am running the KYB shocks

I am to the QA-1 Coilover or the Hotchkis. About the same price. The QA-1 is adjustable. Which is a plus.

dc2x4drvr

The KYB's IMO are the problem, take a look at Ridetech, Varishocks or Viking for a better ride. I'm not a fan of coil overs on stock lower control arms, they're too weak without reinforcement to handle the load.

csouth

I agree here. I wouldn't use the KYB on anything that isn't a stock ride height spring.
All things considered go with the Ridetech RQ. The shocks are made in conjunction with FOX and have a 100k mi warranty.

1971viking

RideTech cost more than the QA-1 adjustable. If the ride is the same I would go with the adjustable. Anyone care to coment on the QA-1 coil over?

70cutty

I don't know about coil overs but I got QA-1 shocks with Eaton springs 3" drop on my 67 Impala and they are great.

csouth

I'm not trying to be funny, but if you really are looking at quality stop looking at QA-1. Is there a reason why you are stuck on this brand? There are much better shocks out there for the money.

dc2x4drvr suggested those other brands because they are BETTER and their pricepoint is acceptable. The reason Vi-king shocks exist is because Chris and Christina King left QA1 to form a company with a partner they knew could do it better than what QA1 has done.

Maybe you should google "qa1 leaks" to see what I am talking about and to get a better picture of problems people have with that brand and the lack of customer service. This would play a big part in whatever brand I chose. I know that Ridetech has great customer service from dealing with them personally in the past.
Whatever you choose, good luck.

1971viking

Thanks to everyone for the info. I will be making a decision soon.