Rust prevention
#1
Rust prevention
Has anyone used any of the rust prevention products that are supposed to attack rust and neutralize it? A body shop employee suggested I hit the inside of my fenders, inside of hood (through the front access holes etc.) with the stuff to ward off potential rust problems in the future. I know it is some sort of water based acid product that sticks to rust and creates a paintable surface if used on undercarriage etc. Thanks
#2
rust
There are alot of different products out there to use. POR-15 for one. The one that I like for painting over is made by Permatex. It comes in a spray car. (79DA) I used it on my floor of my car and painted over it. I used the POR-15 in places where it didn't matter if the surface was smooth to be painted over. It can be a little messy and make sure that you don't get it on your skin as it willbe there for a week. Trust me I know. Hope this helps.
Alb
Alb
#4
I worked in the coatings industry for 43 years ( not automotive) and we used a product called Rust Destroyer by Advance Chemical which has a rust converter, it converts red oxide to black oxide plus it is a high build primer all in one.It was used in the oil industry, pipe lines and,bridge structures and such and could be top coated in 72 hours with most any hot solvent top coat or epoxy. It was a spray brush or roll product and was bullet proof once cured. I would think it would cross over well in to automotive uses as well, Rust is rust no mater what surface it's on .I have sold literal thousands of gallons of this product without problems...Tedd
PS I have no monetary interest in any sales of this product I am very retired.
PS I have no monetary interest in any sales of this product I am very retired.
Last edited by Tedd Thompson; August 2nd, 2012 at 09:23 AM.
#5
I worked in the coatings industry for 43 years ( not automotive) and we used a product called Rust Destroyer by Advance Chemical which has a rust converter, it converts red oxide to black oxide plus it is a high build primer all in one.It was used in the oil industry, pipe lines and,bridge structures and such and could be top coated in 72 hours with most any hot solvent top coat or epoxy. It was a spray brush or roll product and was bullet proof once cured. I would think it would cross over well in to automotive uses as well, Rust is rust no mater what surface it's on .I have sold literal thousands of gallons of this product without problems...Tedd
PS I have no monetary interest in any sales of this product I am very retired.
PS I have no monetary interest in any sales of this product I am very retired.
#7
I worked in the coatings industry for 43 years ( not automotive) and we used a product called Rust Destroyer by Advance Chemical which has a rust converter, it converts red oxide to black oxide plus it is a high build primer all in one.It was used in the oil industry, pipe lines and,bridge structures and such and could be top coated in 72 hours with most any hot solvent top coat or epoxy. It was a spray brush or roll product and was bullet proof once cured. I would think it would cross over well in to automotive uses as well, Rust is rust no mater what surface it's on .I have sold literal thousands of gallons of this product without problems...Tedd
PS I have no monetary interest in any sales of this product I am very retired.
PS I have no monetary interest in any sales of this product I am very retired.
#8
Most "rust converters" change the Iron Oxide to an Iron Phosphate, which is very accepting of paint , with great adhesion. The problem is, if you convert the rust, then sand, you sand off the conversion coating, and reveal bare steel again.
Been working for 30 years as an electroplating/metal finishing engineer, and I've painted powdercoated a lot of phosphated surfaces with great success.
Jim
Been working for 30 years as an electroplating/metal finishing engineer, and I've painted powdercoated a lot of phosphated surfaces with great success.
Jim
#9
I finished my 71 using a lot of por 15. I first grinded or sanded down surface rust mostly on the frame and front control arms to as little there that was left then i por 15ed it. I would highly recommened that all other panels be cut into clean metal and patched or be replaced it is your baby and you want a lasting job overall and not have to do it a 2nd time somewhere down the road it will cost more overall the 2nd time and if you have to use clean rust free used parts alabama arizona etc.
#10
#14
I've used a lot of POR15. I like it and it works well, but there are some issues when using it. First, it is a bit messy as Alb said. Alcohol will remove it from your skin when it's fresh, but after that, it does stick around. If it gets on your floor and you don't notice it, it's permanent. It's reactive to UV, and will change colors if exposed to sunlight. I doesn't stick well to clean smooth metal, it bonds great to rust but needs a rough surface if it's going on other areas. If painting over it, it's very smooth and paint won't want to stick. You can scuff it, but it's very tough. They suggest a misting of primer before it cures. It does take a while to cure, 4+ hours. I've also used the Permatex rattle can stuff, and I was happy with that too. It didn't seem to have the limitations of POR15, but I haven't used it as much.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Frankenpez
Cutlass
8
February 2nd, 2009 07:03 PM