1970 Brake Distribution Block

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Old Mar 24, 2022 | 06:03 AM
  #1  
jharsh's Avatar
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1970 Brake Distribution Block

I am currently trying to bleed the brakes on my 1970 Rallye. The entire system is new. I was having trouble bleeding the rear brakes and thought maybe the switch in the distribution block had become un-centered. So I used a ohm meter to see if the switch to the brass block had any resistance. It does so I assume that means the switch valve is not centered. So I removed the switch to try and re-center the switch and some fluid can out. I'm I correct in thinking this is not good. If so, how hard is it to rebuild? I block is new from inline tube but I bought it over two years ago so I do not think they will replace it.

Thanks
Old Mar 24, 2022 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jharsh
I am currently trying to bleed the brakes on my 1970 Rallye. The entire system is new. I was having trouble bleeding the rear brakes and thought maybe the switch in the distribution block had become un-centered. So I used a ohm meter to see if the switch to the brass block had any resistance. It does so I assume that means the switch valve is not centered. So I removed the switch to try and re-center the switch and some fluid can out. I'm I correct in thinking this is not good. If so, how hard is it to rebuild? I block is new from inline tube but I bought it over two years ago so I do not think they will replace it.

Thanks
Jim, you are correct. There should be no brake fluid in the cavity where the switch contact lives. The distro block piston uses o-rings. It's pretty easy to rebuild, but replacements for the whole unit are also readily available.





There is also a rebuild kit available here.



Old Mar 24, 2022 | 06:29 AM
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Joe, Thanks for the reply.
Old Mar 24, 2022 | 08:08 AM
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I realize there are many methods to bleeding brakes, and one should use the method they prefer, but I want to share my experience with bleeding a '70 442. I use the power bleeder, which is a pump-up, pressurized system. The most difficult part is clamping the sealing cap to the top of the master cyclinder.

Once that is done the system is pressurized to about 10psi. I do nothing to the brake distribution block and I've not had problems with it gettig off-center.

Each wheel bleeds very well; I can run a quart of fluid when flushing through the entire system in a very short time, and it is a one-person set-up. Bleeding brakes is something I enjoy doing now, while in the past it was a nightmare. Just this past week, I've flushed the brake system in two of my Classics, and plan on doing my Tundra in the next few days.

As Joe P points out, the rebuild kit is inexpensive, and the task of rebuilding the distribution block is not difficult. The worst part is getting the darn thing off the frame member.

Hope this information helps....
Old Mar 24, 2022 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by tnswt
I use the power bleeder, which is a pump-up, pressurized system. .
Your bleeder blows, mine sucks.



Old Mar 24, 2022 | 08:26 AM
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Hey, as long as it gets the job done, then we are happy, right?
Old Mar 24, 2022 | 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Your bleeder blows, mine sucks.


Joe, This is the same one I currently have. I think once I get the Distribution Block fixed it should go well. I am curious what PSI you use. I was using about 60 PSI.
Old Mar 24, 2022 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jharsh
Joe, This is the same one I currently have. I think once I get the Distribution Block fixed it should go well. I am curious what PSI you use. I was using about 60 PSI.
To be honest, I've never really worried about it. The regulator is usually set in the 60-90 range.
Old Mar 24, 2022 | 01:43 PM
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Thanks
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