Hello.

The new wheelstuds I bought (Raybestos)are too loose,seems like the originals are pressed in and expanded on the outside of the hub flange.This can't be done with the new ones.The splined section is too short ,and the section from the splines to the threads are tapered,the originals have a straight cut.

Need help on this one.

 

What year and model? The early 1960s cars (and earlier) swaged the studs after installation. You are supposed to cut the swage before pushing the old stud out to prevent oversizing the hole. I'm guessing that didn't happen.

On my 62 F-85, I found studs with a slightly larger knurled section and they fit just fine. Dorman Products lists all their studs with dimensions. This PDF lists 7/16" studs toward the end of the document. On the last page, click on the "continued next page" button to see more.

Dorman Products Wheel Studs

 

From the sounds of your description, you have the wrong wheel studs.

I just replaced the wheel studs on my 72 last fall. Got them from NAPA and they are a perfect fit.

If you still have your old wheel studs, put a caliper on them and find the ones that match from JoeP's link.

 

Probably not. As I noted, the pre-64 cars used swaged-in studs. If they are pressed out without machining away the swage first, the hole in the spindle will become oversized. Unfortunately, the CSM shows a special cutter for this, something I've never seen for real. I similarly oversized the holes in my 62 spindles, which is why I went with studs that had an oversize knurl (and no swage). I suspect the swage was designed to keep the drums on the spindles on the assembly line, but I've seen no ill effects on my 62 without the swages.

 

Interesting. Later model production used a spring clip to keep the drums on the axle during production and frame flip.

I'm assuming that you're assuming (there a recipe for disaster ) that he has an early 60's car?

 

Which is why I asked that question in Post #2.

 

It's a 68 442 with front drums.

You are right , one stud was driven right out.
The studs I ordered have the correct dimensjon on the knurled section,didn't
consider the expansion thought.

Made a minor modification on this hub,so a rubber oil seal would fit in it.It original had a felt seal in it.Had to remove one stud to fasten it in the laite.

Have to look into oversized studs I guess.

 

Seems like I need studs with 0,580" diameter on the knurled section to make this work.
Can't find it on the Dorman site.Any other possibilities?

 

Did you click on the "Continued Next Page" button? Dorman P/N 610-041 has an 0.575" knurl. P/N 610-114 has an 0.582" knurl (but is 1 21/32" long). You can also tack the stud in place with a couple of arc weld tacks if it's still a little loose.

 

Lots of studs there.Working my way through it right now
Seems like I need 0,59" if I force the old ones out.
Welding is a possibility,but I will try to avoid that.

Do you know if the listed lenght is with or without the head?

 

Usually it does not include the head. I've done the tack welds before, no big deal. Use about three tacks around the edge of the head. You can grind them off if the stud needs to come out.

 

610-041 with 0,575" knurl dia.is the closest I can find.
I think these will work if I cut the old bolts before forcing them out,I still have one hole that is too wide but I'll find a way.

Do you think my wheelhubs are replaced with older ones?



P.S.
And now it has started to snow againThe ice on the fjord is 6"thick and it is April soon.Been a looooooong and cold winter.

 

Rock auto says 610-041 has 0,561" knurl dia.
Which one should I trust?

 

Mhh I have destroyed 2 wheel studs on my 62 starfire, it had lefthanded thread....

I looked at Rockauto but they dont deliver them.

Wich one do I need that will fitt?

It may be a set of RH thread with nuts

Thanks and greetings,

Erik.