sticky brakes.
sticky brakes.
hi ,i have delta 88,and put new calipers on front , driver side was a mess ,all worn down and rotor was all deeply groved , so got new one, now all back together , and driver side is dragging , you have to step on gas to make it move ,it smokes if you go a half a mile , does not pull to the d/s ,but just does not seem to release all the way, thanks for any help ,will.
How old are the rubber brake lines to the caliper? I had the same problem on my truck. The rubber inside the line gets soft and the line will collapse and the fluid will nor return. I replaced the line and bleed the brakes and actually had little pieces of rubber come out while bleeding. That will keep the caliper from fully releasing.
Some calipers need a small amount of grease in the tracks where they slide.
Did you clean those areas and grease them?
Also how old are the hoses? I once had a 30 year old hose on my Ford that developed an internal 'check valve' that would keep the pressure up once your foot is off the pedal. It wore the rotor down just like yours. It had a distict pull when braking, though.
Did you clean those areas and grease them?
Also how old are the hoses? I once had a 30 year old hose on my Ford that developed an internal 'check valve' that would keep the pressure up once your foot is off the pedal. It wore the rotor down just like yours. It had a distict pull when braking, though.
Replace both rubber lines - they're inexpensive! Should be the fix!
Don't know if you replaced both rotors, but you should. Aways replace things in pairs, when it comes to brakes, as it keeps the hydraulics operating the same.
Calipers .200 engaged due to a thinner rotor creates a side to side difference, and that thinner rotor will have more of a tendancy to warp when overheated!
Don't know if you replaced both rotors, but you should. Aways replace things in pairs, when it comes to brakes, as it keeps the hydraulics operating the same.
Calipers .200 engaged due to a thinner rotor creates a side to side difference, and that thinner rotor will have more of a tendancy to warp when overheated!
Either hoses, or distribution block, or antilock system (if car has it).
Maybe master cyl, but I think that is not a common failure mode.
Good rule of thumb. Besides, if you have bleed one side, it is not much harder to do the other.
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