Replacing metal brake lines and proportioning valve?

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Old January 3rd, 2013, 07:40 PM
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Replacing metal brake lines and proportioning valve?

I had a metal brake line fail this fall and will be replacing all the lines (metal and rubber) along with the prop valve with new pieces from inline tube. It's a '73 S with factory discs on the front and drums in the rear. The front calipers are new/rebuilt installed last year.
Questions:
1) Will I need to remove and bench bleed my new/rebuilt master cylinder like I did when I installed it last year?
2) What about the proportioning valve? Does it bleed itself with the rest of the system or is there a separate procedure to get it "pumped up"?
Thanks in advance.

Last edited by zodiacblueS; January 3rd, 2013 at 07:43 PM.
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Old January 4th, 2013, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by zodiacblueS
1) Will I need to remove and bench bleed my new/rebuilt master cylinder like I did when I installed it last year?
Probably not, but it depends on whether or not all the fluid leaks out of it when you disconnect the lines.

2) What about the proportioning valve? Does it bleed itself with the rest of the system or is there a separate procedure to get it "pumped up"?
Combo valve will self-bleed with the rest of the system. If you are bleeding with a two-person, pump-the-brakes approach, just be careful not to press too hard on the pedal and force the differential pressure switch hard to one side, where it can get stuck. Use gentle force on the pedal until there is fluid in both circuits of the brakes.
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Old January 4th, 2013, 09:45 AM
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Thanks Joe

Being 62 myself, I can really appreciate and Old(s) fart. Thank you sir.
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