Hi all,
Working on a 1969 442
Converted from PB to Manual

What parts numbers am I looking for to add the return spring and bumper for the brake pedal?
It looks like there should be a little tab too that the spring clips on- where could I find that?

I'm having a hard time finding them.

 

Drum or disc?

 

It was a power drum car, but I put in a manual 4 wheel disc set up.

 

Then you need to use the correct manual 4wheel disc M/C for this aftermarket brake setup. Part number recommendations are meaningless since we have no idea of the calipers you used, the piston diameters in those calipers, or the matching M/C bore required to operate them properly. Who did you get the brakes from and what do they recommend for an M/C?

 

I’m good with the MC
Since I now have manual brakes, I thought I needed the return spring and bumper under the dash on the pedal assembly, that’s what I’m looking for.

 

That's one helluva daily driver, love it.

Surprised you switched to manual disc (honestly didn't realize this was an option back then). My first a 67 Cutlass Coupe was manual drum and definitely kept you alert while driving in modern traffic back in 1987. Years later my 66 442 came power assist drum and it stopped great. But it also came with 1/2 your power.

 

It wasn't, at least not four wheel disc brakes. Actually manual front disc brakes were a mid-year option on 1969 W30s.

 

My olds 4 drum PB stopped the car like a dream. Could lock up the tires.
unfortunately working out bugs on the manual 4 disc kit from The Right Stuff. Very poor stopping performance.
I don’t have enough vacuum for reliable power brakes but I should still be able to lock up the tires with manual brakes. Frustrating.
I think I found the return spring and stop from summit. That won’t help any but at least get under the dash correct.
I am swapping to another manual disc/disc MC. I think I hurt the one with the kit pushing the piston in too far bench bleeding.

 

Once again, the M/C bore must be correct for the braking system used. I've found that nearly none of the aftermarket brake kit providers (including big name ones) have a clue about correctly sizing or matching parts. For starters, your manual M/C should be no larger than 1" bore, possibly even 15/16" to get the necessary pedal pressure. Of course, the risk in downsizing the bore is having enough pedal throw to provide sufficient volume to the wheels. And I ASSUME you have the pushrod in the upper hole in the pedal to get the correct pedal ratio.

 

It’s a 1inch bore size. Mounted to top pin location.
I’m not even really sure how you could mount it to the bottom pin since the angle is straight back without the booster.

 

I assume you have a provision to ensure that the pushrod can't fall out of the master cylinder cup, such as this reproduction from Inline Tube.

 

Get a 7/8" bore master cylinder and be done, or change your plans entirely and put on a hydraboost system. That is unless you are running manual steering as well.

 

manual steering, no PS pump!

I don’t mind the pedal effort, I just feel they should grab more. Where could I find a 7/8” bore disc/disc MC?

 

The push rod that I have is smooth, no indent.

 

Between that and the brakes, I guess you won't be loaning the car to your wife.

 

Are you going for a factory look, or aftermarket on the master cylinder?
You can buy a stock-is style (no bleeders) like the one below from many vendors
https://www.ecklers.com/camaro-gm-co...MaAmfMEALw_wcB

Or you could buy an aftermarket version like the wilwood below
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...0aApmuEALw_wcB

 

Stock appearing would be preferred for now -
I am replacing this currently- just finished painting it and it's on the workbench, but suppose I could switch to a 7/8 bore. Would it be a noticeable difference?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/RSD-DBMC05


In the picture for Ecklers, it shows disc/disc as a possibility but in the description it says
For Disc/Drum or Drum/Drum Applications

 

For anyone curious about the original question- this is the spring and stops I'm ordering.
They should be what I need since I no longer have the booster to push the pedal up.
Currently the pedal will return fine without it, but I think it is right to have these...

 

lol I'm barely confident driving it myself!

 

[QUOTE=MPSax;1668880]
In the picture for Ecklers, it shows disc/disc as a possibility but in the description it says
For Disc/Drum or Drum/Drum Applications
[QUOTE]

I saw that and I believe it is a miss-print. Should read Disc/ Drum or Disc/ Disc. A Drum/ Drum mastercylinder would not have a larger front reservior as seen in the photo you posted. Front and rear reservior would be the same size for 4-wheel drums. You could call Ecklers to be sure though. Are you running a Disc/ Disc proportioning valve? You may want to run a drum style distribution block with an adjustable proportioning valve on the rear line. It will take some road testing to fine tune, but will keep the back brakes from locking up before the front.

 

With a smooth pushrod, you could force onto it an internal star washer that grips it tightly, and then use the Inland Tube retaining "cup". I would sure use something. Drag racer Ken Etter had a bad accident a few years ago when the pushrod came out of his master cylinder and he had no brakes.