I’m also having issues on my 69 VC. I cannot get any fluid or air through any of my lines. Could it be the distribution box is plug or shot. I’ve taken a syringe and attached a hose to It and to the lines that hook to the MC, and cannot force any air through or fluid. I just get back pressure.

 

I have a 69 VC that set in my garage for 21 years, I’ve got her up and running, checked brake fluid, but no brakes, so I tried pumping them up and no fluid comes out of any of the bleeders, so I got new MC, Havel not installed it yet, I want to flush out all brake lines. Using a syringe and a small hose I tried to pump air through connectors that attach to fuel pump, but when I press syringe it just builds up pressure and forces the syringe back. I figure if I can’t pump air through the lines I won’t be able to pump new fluid through. I’ve removed all 4 bleeders and cleaned them even though they were not blocked. Does a MC put more pressure than what my syringe can apply or could it be the proportion block is clogged or screwed up. Im stumped. Any advice is appreciated

 

You might check all 3 rubber hoses, they probably need replacing anyways after sitting for so long.

 

Get one of these too.
Get the correct 60s dual master cylinder adaptor. You can do any car with the correct master cylinder adapter.

Please read this:

 

A power bleeder is a must have addition to the tool box.
I have not had one single issue with the distribution valves in 30+ years using a power bleeder. Doing it the old skool way employing the neanderthal method, yes you can offset this valve.

https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...e-bleeder-kits

 

Thanks, I’ll have to get one

 

Rather than asking the same question in multiple threads (including resurrecting a dead one), you'll get a better answer more quickly if you keep all responses in a single thread.

 

I have never owned a power bleeder. Whenever I do brakes or other endeavors that require an extra set of hands or feet, I always use my multi-purpose tool (the wife). She's become quite the expert with 46 years of experience assisting in car repairs and mods.

 

I do have one of those, and after pumping brakes on this car, those legs are really beefing up lol 😂. I have a feeling I’m gonna have to replace the proportion valve but I’m trying all avenues before I do.

 

Rather than being a beavis, how about answering my question, rather than insult me. Plus I’m new to this site, and still trying to figure it out. I apologize if I offended you with asking questions in different threads.

 

The restriction could be in several places, I'd definitely check the block since it is affecting all of the wheels. After that the steel lines, bleeder screws and hoses. Once the lines are disconnected at the block you'll be able to check them individually.

Bench bleed the new MC well.

 

My next step will be a power bleeder, if that fails Then I’ll do as you suggested, which I probably need to do any way. Thanks

 

Sure, lets **** off one of the most knowledgeable people on this site. The multiple posts/threads with the same question did not offend, it is against forum rules to eliminate confusion.

 

Ok got the power bleeder, it did not work still no air nor fluid in all 4 wheels. Would a bad or clogged proportion valve be causing all 4 wheels not to bleed, nor get any fluid to them.

 

What you need to do is start breaking connections and see where the fluid stops or starts depending on which end of the line you start the process at. Don't speculate.

 

Thanks, I was fearing it would be the block, I just pb blasted its fittings and will hit em again later this evening. You confirmed what I didn’t want to do. That looks like a tough job when your laying on rug in gravel.

 

100% agree with Eric.
The power bleeder should be pumped to ~15PSI.
Since it sat so long, the fluid likely coagulated somewhere or several somewheres.
The obstruction is likely at the wheel cylinders/calipers or their bleeders. Pull the bleeders completely out and make sure they are not plugged (likely).

Just an idea.... You will need all new/rebuilt components for a safe brake system, including flex lines, master & wheel cylinders, and calipers (if equipped).
If this were me, I'd install a new master, then break the soft lines loose at the hard line intersections. Force fluid through the new master and all hard lines first.
If nothing is coming out of the hard lines, work back to the master.

Once fluid flows R&R the soft lines wheel cylinders & calipers and re-bleed.

Brake fluid should be bled every few years or by mileage....10K or less.

With all new components, now is the time to switch to DOT 4. DOT 4 does not eat paint like DOT 3 does.

 

Thanks I’ve pulled all 4 bleeders and cleaned them, yesterday evening, had my granddaughter pump the brakes for me, finally got a jell like brake fluid to drip out, so I assume the lines, as you said are coagulated with brake fluid. I’ve heard of device that attaches to the MC and will pressurize the whole system and will pump coagulated fluids out. Have you heard of such a device.

 

Finally got some coagulated fluid to pump out of rear bleeders, but my brake pumper wore out. Granddaughter. Lol

 

See post #5
There are other, more expensive and fancier power bleeders, like a Branick.
Branick uses pneumatics over hydraulics with a diaphragm to keep the air and fluid separated.

The Motive pump does more or less the same thing for a fraction of the price.

Always use fresh brake fluid. Never store it in an open or fluctuating ambient environment, such as the back yard shed.
Always completely drain the power bleeder. When storing the bleeder, keep the pump head secured and cap off the hose ends. I keep all of my master cylinder adapters in ziploc bags.

One word of caution on the Motive bleeder. I upgraded the clear hose to a thicker wall. The factory hose ruptured. Fortunately, I caught it before it hit the paint (DOT3). Another reason to use DOT4.
That was 30 years ago they likely improved on this?

Date the bottles of partially used fluid. If the lids on tight and its in a stable environment, it will last a year to two. Then recycle it.

Once you see how easy this tool makes brake bleeding, you will be more likely to schedule a bleeding on a biennial basis.