New Master Cylinder lost brake pressure
#1
New Master Cylinder lost brake pressure
Happy Holidays Olds fans. About a month ago I noticed a small leak bw the MC and power booster. I began to lose pressure but as I pumped brakes the pressure began to build back up. I have the service manual and from trouble shooting I first manually bled the brakes which helped some but the leak between the booster and MC was worse. Today I installed the MC as the service manual stated. I have bled the brakes over and over again. I still have no brake pressure. Can somebody help me please. I have scrolled thru many threads and it looks like im missing something. Is bench bleeding the process of bleding the MC before install? I didnt do this. I own a 72 cutlass with drums all the way around. Maybe soon I can upgrade to a Disc conversion. Hope santa is an ClassicOlds member.
#2
thanks for reply
#3
#4
Install the plugs they gave you and follow their instructions.
Basically, you clamp the M/C in a vise and push the piston in all the way, over and over, until the bubbles stop.
If you don't have a steady vise available, you can press the piston with a hammer handle while holding the M/C against a tree or a sturdy wall.
- Eric
#5
#6
There are instructions with the new M/C.
Install the plugs they gave you and follow their instructions.
Basically, you clamp the M/C in a vise and push the piston in all the way, over and over, until the bubbles stop.
If you don't have a steady vise available, you can press the piston with a hammer handle while holding the M/C against a tree or a sturdy wall.
- Eric
Install the plugs they gave you and follow their instructions.
Basically, you clamp the M/C in a vise and push the piston in all the way, over and over, until the bubbles stop.
If you don't have a steady vise available, you can press the piston with a hammer handle while holding the M/C against a tree or a sturdy wall.
- Eric
I dont have a vise but I do have walls and trees. Thanks again. Im a better learner when Im hands on honestly.
#7
He doesn't have a vise.
Oh yeah. It's got a STRONG spring, which is why you need a vise or a tree.
Without a vise, you'll have to prop the M/C against a sturdy object, hold the hammer handle or whatever you use with both hands, and lean your body into the M/C to depress the piston, because you want to keep the force line straight into the M/C, and not off at an angle. That's why a vise is easier.
- Eric
Oh yeah. It's got a STRONG spring, which is why you need a vise or a tree.
Without a vise, you'll have to prop the M/C against a sturdy object, hold the hammer handle or whatever you use with both hands, and lean your body into the M/C to depress the piston, because you want to keep the force line straight into the M/C, and not off at an angle. That's why a vise is easier.
- Eric
#8
He doesn't have a vise.
Oh yeah. It's got a STRONG spring, which is why you need a vise or a tree.
Without a vise, you'll have to prop the M/C against a sturdy object, hold the hammer handle or whatever you use with both hands, and lean your body into the M/C to depress the piston, because you want to keep the force line straight into the M/C, and not off at an angle. That's why a vise is easier.
- Eric
Oh yeah. It's got a STRONG spring, which is why you need a vise or a tree.
Without a vise, you'll have to prop the M/C against a sturdy object, hold the hammer handle or whatever you use with both hands, and lean your body into the M/C to depress the piston, because you want to keep the force line straight into the M/C, and not off at an angle. That's why a vise is easier.
- Eric
#9
Put the master cyl in a bench vice, use some kind of rod, screwdriver, ect. fill the master cyl. with brake fluid. with the open ends of the tube curved to return the fluid back into the top of the master cyl. slowly push the rod in and out watching for air bubbles coming out of the bottom small holes in the filled master cyl. do it slowly till the bubbles stop. should be instuctions with tube kit. Dont get the brake fluid in your eyes or on your car paint it can strip your paint.
#10
Yep, it must be bench bled. I doubt you did any harm to the MC. Just remove it again and bench bleed it.
See how I did it without a vice here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post331973
I also had some helpful tips in there, too.
Do not fill more than 3/4 full to avoid spillage when installing it on the car.
See how I did it without a vice here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post331973
I also had some helpful tips in there, too.
Do not fill more than 3/4 full to avoid spillage when installing it on the car.
#12
Yep, it must be bench bled. I doubt you did any harm to the MC. Just remove it again and bench bleed it.
See how I did it without a vice here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post331973
I also had some helpful tips in there, too.
Do not fill more than 3/4 full to avoid spillage when installing it on the car.
See how I did it without a vice here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post331973
I also had some helpful tips in there, too.
Do not fill more than 3/4 full to avoid spillage when installing it on the car.
#13
Did you redo the rest of the brakes or have the shoes off? If so, you MUST adjust the shoes to be close to the drums. If they are not, then you will use up all your pedal travel moving the shoes...
Only other issue would be a bad master if you bled it right (sounds lke you did)...
Only other issue would be a bad master if you bled it right (sounds lke you did)...
#14
Did you redo the rest of the brakes or have the shoes off? If so, you MUST adjust the shoes to be close to the drums. If they are not, then you will use up all your pedal travel moving the shoes...
Only other issue would be Oooooo a bad master if you bled it right (sounds lke you did)...
Only other issue would be Oooooo a bad master if you bled it right (sounds lke you did)...
I bench bled the new MC(not a reman) and installed. Bled the system again and still no pressure. I called a couple of shops and spoke with mechanics there. When im bleeding the brakes the car is off and I get real good pressure while im bleeding. When I turn the car on brake petal hits the floor. The mechanic said its my booster. I went and bought a new one installed .
Do I have to bench bleed th MC again or can I just bolt on the MC and bleed the system?
#17
#18
#19
Yea, just put the bench bleeder kit back on it as best you can and hopefully it will not leak more. Do another quick bench bleed before reassy.
You can have your brake booster rebuilt if you want to stay original and can let the car be idle a few weeks. Not too much more than a "might fit" chinesium replacement.
Supposed to rain Sat and Sun, at least so they say...
You can have your brake booster rebuilt if you want to stay original and can let the car be idle a few weeks. Not too much more than a "might fit" chinesium replacement.
Supposed to rain Sat and Sun, at least so they say...
#20
Yea, just put the bench bleeder kit back on it as best you can and hopefully it will not leak more. Do another quick bench bleed before reassy.
You can have your brake booster rebuilt if you want to stay original and can let the car be idle a few weeks. Not too much more than a "might fit" chinesium replacement.
Supposed to rain Sat and Sun, at least so they say...
You can have your brake booster rebuilt if you want to stay original and can let the car be idle a few weeks. Not too much more than a "might fit" chinesium replacement.
Supposed to rain Sat and Sun, at least so they say...
#21
Well glad you finally got it bled. This is a job I really hate and you know why!
Charge the battery overnight on less than 2A.
The GEN light on is not from sitting - something else is wrong.
With engine running, measure voltage across your battery - should be 13V to 15V. Lower means either ALT or regulator are not working.
Check connections to both, first.
Charge the battery overnight on less than 2A.
The GEN light on is not from sitting - something else is wrong.
With engine running, measure voltage across your battery - should be 13V to 15V. Lower means either ALT or regulator are not working.
Check connections to both, first.
#22
Well glad you finally got it bled. This is a job I really hate and you know why!
Charge the battery overnight on less than 2A.
The GEN light on is not from sitting - something else is wrong.
With engine running, measure voltage across your battery - should be 13V to 15V. Lower means either ALT or regulator are not working.
Check connections to both, first.
Charge the battery overnight on less than 2A.
The GEN light on is not from sitting - something else is wrong.
With engine running, measure voltage across your battery - should be 13V to 15V. Lower means either ALT or regulator are not working.
Check connections to both, first.
As far as the gen light I charged battery and stzrted right up.. Gen light stayed on . It seems to be dying at idle when brakes applied. Im running a external volt regulator and not sure how to troubleshoot if the regulator or alt is bad. Any advice.. My guess is alt.
#24
Not sure.. Im working now and no meter handy. I pulled in to work at 7a and as soon as I pulled in she died.. I could tell at every stop she wanted to die si I put it in neutral and kept it alive at stops.. Ill check once I get a boost and home. Should be 13 area?
#25
Yes, 13-15V at idle.
Check for disconnected or cracked vac hoses, esp. the one for the brake booster.
If you are driving withthe GEN light on, you may be running off just the battery. If so, it might be getting weak enough to not run the ignition system correctly. I would not drive anywhere until you get it fixed.
Check for disconnected or cracked vac hoses, esp. the one for the brake booster.
If you are driving withthe GEN light on, you may be running off just the battery. If so, it might be getting weak enough to not run the ignition system correctly. I would not drive anywhere until you get it fixed.
#26
Yes, 13-15V at idle.
Check for disconnected or cracked vac hoses, esp. the one for the brake booster.
If you are driving withthe GEN light on, you may be running off just the battery. If so, it might be getting weak enough to not run the ignition system correctly. I would not drive anywhere until you get it fixed.
Check for disconnected or cracked vac hoses, esp. the one for the brake booster.
If you are driving withthe GEN light on, you may be running off just the battery. If so, it might be getting weak enough to not run the ignition system correctly. I would not drive anywhere until you get it fixed.
So how do I narrow down alt or regulator problem? Alt is suppose to keep charge correct? I can take it to auto parts house and test but what if regulator is fried will it burn up alt ?
Vac hoses are brand new from booster.
#27
A parts store can check the alt. If bad, you might open it up to see if just the brushes are worn down. If so, you can replace them for just a few dollars.
If you still have the old original style mechanical regulator, you might just get an electronic replacement - should be under 20 bucks. Check Napa. If that is not the problem, you can always keep it as a spare.
Check your wiring first - look for burned or poor connections at the terminals..
If you still have the old original style mechanical regulator, you might just get an electronic replacement - should be under 20 bucks. Check Napa. If that is not the problem, you can always keep it as a spare.
Check your wiring first - look for burned or poor connections at the terminals..
#28
I can send you another alternator if you want to try it. My cars all use 80's alternators, and I have no use for the older style.
Better to spend 10 bucks on shipping, than 50 bucks for a new one.
You could rebuild your original one while the other is in place, or use mine for the core exchange as well.
That's the only reason I keep it around.
Just a thought.
Better to spend 10 bucks on shipping, than 50 bucks for a new one.
You could rebuild your original one while the other is in place, or use mine for the core exchange as well.
That's the only reason I keep it around.
Just a thought.
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