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Howdy. Changing back to manual brakes from trying out upgrading to power. I'm not making enough vacuum to keep the power and I don't want to run a pump. I got the push rod kit from Inline Tube and installed it. It just looks not great. No install instructions came with it so I put it together as it seemed logical. I am just questioning the thing not sitting flush which would not let the master cylinder sit flush. Putting it on the inside I don't know what would keep the assembly in place like it does installed through the hole. Am I right or wrong here??
The rod and clevis needs to connect into the top hole on the brake pedal assy. I think once the master is installed and tightened it will push the cup against the seal on the firewall as long as it slips into the cup. Also make sure the rod is the proper length for the MC actuator.
Last edited by oldcutlass; Sep 17, 2025 at 01:46 PM.
As I recall, when I recently replaced the manual brake master cylinder on my ‘70 442, I installed the cup, rod, and seal on the master and bolted it to the firewall. Then connected the rod to the pedal. I think I assembled the cup and rod, then slipped the seal over the cup. I stayed reasonably attached to the master for installation to the firewall.
Yours looks like a ‘69-‘72 so I would think it would install the same way.
Note: master cylinders can have shallow plungers or deep. Mine is shallow as I suspect yours should be. Also make sure you attach the clevis to the correct pedal hole. Top hole for manual and bottom hole for power brakes. Don’t forget to adjust the brake light switch if needed.
You do need to use the cup so the rod cannot come out of the master cylinder plunger. A few years ago an NHRA Stocker had a bad wreck when his brake pushrod fell out, leaving him with no brakes. As noted above, fit the cup and seal into the master cylinder first, and then put the assembly onto the studs and firewall. Then attach to the hole in the pedal arm.
I've currently got it attached to the upper hole in the pedal as it sits. It's that thickness of the assembly that's curious since it'll space out the master cylinder from the firewall. I've not put the master cylinder up to it yet. If it were just the cup that went into the engine bay side of the firewall hole and the rubber boot on the interior side I could wrap my mind around it working better, but then there's nothing to keep the boot against the inner firewall. Going from memory, the service manual doesn't show this very clear. I'll check it out tonight.
Last night was slicing up my fingertips on the turkey tray. The dry fit of it snapped into the locating holes fine, but Murphy's Law hit when it mattered and the passenger side rear one refused to cooperate as my RTV set up, aggravation, bleeding, and cussing ensued...not necessarily in that order.
This boot worked fine for me. https://www.camarocentral.com/1967_1.../brc-1007a.htm My understanding is the manual disk brakes on the ‘70 Camaro used the same master cylinder. I assume the manual drum Oldsmobile has the same boot. Note that some vendors sell boots that don’t have the 90 degree lip that seals to the firewall like the originals.
I got it in today. After taking the rod/boot assembly back out I fit it up to the master cylinder and it showed it should fit fine. It appears having the clevis hooked up to the brake pedal was enough to make it cocked in the firewall hole. I put the clevis on after snugging the master cylinder down to seat the cup and then backed off the master to the end of the studs so I could get the clevis back on the rod and pedal. Thanks for all the replies. Murphy's Law still hit. Inline tube sent me the power master cylinder lines instead of the manual. One step forward, two back.
