CuttyShark

I have a chassis manual, but the area of the page with the picture of how the LONG line from the proportioning valve to the rear is all blurry!

I bought the line from OGP. I have the line screwed into the valve, and at the other end I can not see where it feeds through the chassis to get to the top of the differential cover. It does not seem long enough to reach the single hexagon shape hole. it only is long enough to fit into the hole closer to the drivers side wheel.

I did some searched and think I need a soft hose that screws onto the differential housing, but then what does that soft hose connect to? And what is this second smaller hard line that came with the LONG line? It does not have an end that fits onto the long hose.

Does anyone have any pictures of their frame with the lines installed in this area?

I have a 70 convertible.

Fun71

Yes, you need the rear brake hose. It connects to a bracket and the hard line up top then has a block that screws onto the top of the housing and the axle brake lines connect to either side of the block.





Available from your local auto parts store or Rock Auto for about $20:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...ktemplate=true

Or from one of the resto houses for $50+. Your choice.

joe_padavano

Yet another example of why one should just buy a paper original CSM and not a reprint or electronic version.

CuttyShark

Ok, I have that soft hose. BUT there is still something missing.

See this picture. You can see the LONG hard line on the left, and then the end of the soft line poking through the chassis. The rear brake line kit i got from OPG had this smaller hard line zip tied to it. It seems to be the perfect length to make up the missing distance between where the long line ends and the soft line begins, BUT it has the wrong end to connect to the long line!

I still can not find a part that looks like it belongs there.Did OPG sell me the wrong hard line? What is this short one?

2blu442

I've got a rolling chassis from a 1971 Cutlass 4 door and its once piece from the distribution block to the rubber hose. Here's a couple photos of the area your working in. I'm not 100% sure it was the same in 1970, but it seems like a single line is simpler (and cheaper) than adding a short piece with additional fittings. I suspect they sent you the wrong parts, but will wait for someone with a 1970 apart who can confirm that. In fact, a quick check shows three major build threads that involved 1970 W30's. You might read through those threads looking for pictures that could help. John

DSCN3992.jpg

DSCN3994.jpg

4speed455

I bought new lines from OPGI for 70 cutlass convertible. The one they sent was short just like yours. I ended up sending it back and they sent me a new one that was identical. Since it was holding up me getting my body back on the frame and getting my car to the paint shop, I went down to Napa and bought a short pre made line the correct length and installed it.

CuttyShark

Did you kit from OPG have that extra hard line attached to it? If they intended it to make up the difference it would be nice if they had put the correct end on it so it mated to the long line.

Does OPG take parts back that have been installed and then taken back off? Does someone else made a hard line that actually fits correctly?

MDchanic

It looks like OPG created a different line without the extra foot or so after the 90° bend, to make it easier for you to install the long line, and possibly to make it easier and cheaper to ship.

While they should have included a union in the package, there is no reason why you shouldn't go down to the auto parts store, buy the proper union, and just put the thing together.

Should they have included a sheet telling you that this was the case? Yes.
But they didn't, so you've got to work with what you've got (or send it back).

- Eric

CuttyShark

I just called Inlinetube who I happened to have a business card from because I bought something off Ebay a while back from them...

turns out they have the hard line too. IN the picture on the website the bend after the 90 degrees is much longer. So it should work out better to go the full length. I ordered it.

I will try and return this OPG one. It is not correct for a restoration and I do not trust having that extra union in there when it is hidden up so far in the frame and under the body. If it gives out or leaks I do not have to have to take the car apart to fix it 10 years down the road or whatever.

At the very least OPG can give me store credit. I mean I spent literally $4000 there in the last month!

joe_padavano

I suspect that the reason for the two-piece line is that many people will be installing this line with the body still on the frame. That extra foot or so of line bent at 90 degrees to the main line makes that much more difficult to do.

CuttyShark

Yah that may be true. It really should have come with the the right part included to make that so though. Alas... its solved now.

Now I found another issue. I bought the front hard line kit at the same time along with the 71 style proportioning valve. The hard line to the drive side front does not mate up to the soft hoses OPG sold me at the same time.

So when I went into OPG I told them I had a 70 cutlass and to give me what I needed to put power front disc brakes and drum rears on. That got me a proportioning valve and not a distribution block. Ok? I am discovering from my research that it a common upgrade so I am going with it. Now, are the hard lines the same up front? Because I am having this problem now..

Attached are picture of the left and right side. The hard hose matches up fine with the passenger side, but not the drivers side. The hose ends are color coded The Green one does not fit in the soft hose. The blue end does. I thought maybe I had the driver side hard line on backwards, but if I flip it around it no longer mates with the proportioning valve.

I checked on OPG website and the picture they use for the 70 and 71 hard lines are the same.

Are the front soft hoses connections differerent? OPG sold me two identical soft hoses.

joe_padavano

Well, you apparently have multiple problems going on.

First, I don't care what illustration they used, the 1970 hard lines are different from the 71 hard lines. Routing and fitting size for the dist block is different than for the combo valve. If they actually send you hard lines for a 1970, you have the ones for a dist block.

Second, as the other photo shows, the purple fittings go into the hose, not the green ones. You have that line backwards.

Third, the non-OEM brass combo valve may or may not be dimensionally identical to the original cast iron combo valve used in 1971.

Fourth, that's not the factory orientation for the combo valve anyway.

Fifth, these aftermarket line kits are never perfect. Expect to have to tweak them.

CuttyShark

Problems solved!

I called OPG and talked to Mike. 1970 was a transition year. On top of that there is a conversion kit to the 71 and later standard proportion one valve. since I wasn't the one that picked them it and I got them all at the counter he said Im ok striping the parts back off frame and exchanging them.