71OldsCut

Hi everyone,

I have a mostly stock (certainly stock in the brake/suspension department) 1971 Cutlass with drum brakes all around. Now that the car is tuned up and working well it has been taken out and driven around more. I have noticed that at low speeds, like 5MPH or slower there is a pull to the left. I was actually pulling up to a gas pump the other day and the left front wheel actually locked slightly. I was barely moving at that point and the wheel only slid for about 6" or so.

I did have the wheels and drums off looking for obvious leaks or stuck parts. The brakes were apparently just done before I bought the car a couple of years ago and it hasn't been driven much since then. This looks to be accurate because the pads look fairly new, there are no ridges on the drums, everything is dry and there was some brake dust in both drums. They turn freely and there doesn't seem to be any hard spots when turning so I don't think a drum is oval shaped or anything like that.

I was doing some google searching yesterday and came across some good suggestions that I am going to try today. I figured I would start with the smaller things and see where that gets me first. But the one thing that came up but was never really answered was people saying the old drum brakes sometimes don't work well with some newer brake material.

It was said that asbestos pads that were fairly common on some of the older cars were best, but for obvious reasons they are not a good option now. It was just never mentioned what the best option of what is available today would be. I figure I will try some small things like brake cleaner on the drums, maybe a light sanding on the pads, possibly beveling the edge of the shoe, making sure everything is moving freely and once the drum is back on, turn the adjuster until the shoes are tight, then back it off until there is just a faint drag when turning it. I will also check to make sure there is no play in the wheel bearings. Apparently that can cause some issues too.

Hopefully that does the trick. If not, maybe I will try getting some new shoes and hope that maybe the last owner used some cheap stuff that just doesn't work well. Any opinions on what the best pad material for cars like this is? Or any other suggestions/tips for that matter?

Thanks!

oldcutlass

The 2 things that usually cause this are an internally collapsed rubber line feeding that wheel acting like a check valve or contaminated shoes soaked in brake fluid. Since you inspected this and verified that contamination is not the cause, I suggest changing the front rubber hoses to start, you MAW do the rear one also if its original.

71OldsCut

Thanks, will check those too. If I end up changing those I should probably just replace the wheel cylinders too since the system is already open at that point. I hear even if they are not leaking they can cause some issues.

OLDSter Ralph

X 2
I just had that problem with my Toronado. If you notice hot drums or rim, its a good chance that the hoses are your problem.

71OldsCut

It actually ended up being the same problem and fix as here: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-wheel-116626/

After closer inspection on both front wheels the thing that is supposed to make contact with the adjuster wasn't. It looked to me like that hook thing at the top wasn't pulling it far enough. A quick google search brought me to that post and they said just bend it, so I did. Both sides are great now and adjust like they should. I was planing to put the drums back on and snug the shoes right up to it, then back it down until they just slightly drag. But, I found no way to get something in there to push the stop off the adjuster so I could back it off. So I just kept tightening it with the drum off and putting it back on until it felt right. Then tried that backing up and hitting the brakes a few times. Not sure if that actually adjusted anything buy the grabbing and that pull at low speeds seems to be gone.

There might be the slightest pull at 5PMH or less still, but it might just be because I am really looking for it. Certainly nothing like what it was so I think the front is all good.

Also seemed to have a slightly loose wheel bearing on the left side so I snugged that up too. Hopefully not too much. it seemed to be an issue where it was best in a spot where the cotter pin couldn't go through. I can't see that extra 1/8 turn being too much. It still spun pretty free after. It also drives straight. I would think if it was too tight it would almost be like having the brakes applied on that one wheel and create a slight pull at speed, which it didn't.

Next up is to check the back. I assume the same guy probably did those so the same issue might be there too.

Sugar Bear

Careful with the wheel bearing adjustment, when the cotter key won't line up with the hole it is better to go to the next looser adjustment. You won't feel a tight wheel bearing at all until after the damage is done.

Good luck!!!