Double-checking on disc swap....
Double-checking on disc swap....
I bought the entire front suspension off of a '72 El Camino today (brakes/a-arms/large sway bar, left the springs, etc.)....my understanding is that all of this will bolt up to my '66 F-85.
The plan is to clean & rebuild the brakes & a-arms (new bushings, etc) & swap it all @ once.
Any foreseeable problems?
Thanks!
D
The plan is to clean & rebuild the brakes & a-arms (new bushings, etc) & swap it all @ once.
Any foreseeable problems?
Thanks!
D
I know the A-body rear ends are 2 inches wider from '67 to '68, so I imagine the front is too!
I'd use from the tie rods out, just to be safe, as the center link, idler arm, etc. could be a lot different.
I'd use from the tie rods out, just to be safe, as the center link, idler arm, etc. could be a lot different.
The parts bolt up to any 64-72 A-body car. The sway bar and control arms fit just fine, but you don't need to swap the control arms. The width difference at the front is in the frame crossmember, not the control arms. Note that the dual chamber master cylinder will not fit a 1964-66 power booster. You need a 67 booster or you need to trim the pushrod between the booster and the M/C.
That's what I meant - from the tie rods out.
You can get away with just changing the spindles, unless the control arms need rebuilding, which is mentioned.
BTW - urethane bushings have a pretty harsh ride, although they'll not absorb oil, and usually last longer.
You can get away with just changing the spindles, unless the control arms need rebuilding, which is mentioned.
BTW - urethane bushings have a pretty harsh ride, although they'll not absorb oil, and usually last longer.
I figured the arms, brakes, sway bar would work.....just double checking before I redo everything before the swap (only keep the car down for a day or two).
I'll be buying a new booster/dual outlet master....
Thanks guys!
I'll be buying a new booster/dual outlet master....
Thanks guys!
I can't remember which has it, inline tube or right stuff, or CPP, but one of hte companies that specialzes in all the reproduction brake stuff has an all in one proportioning valve that sits in the factory spot that 66 & 67's used for their combo valve or T (66's just had the T)... that way you can re-use your rear & front L&R brake lines w/o modifying them.
When i did mine, i just got a generic (truck) disk/drum prop valve, and wound up cutting, reflaring the rear line & bending new front lines to work with it. Pain in the butt.
Its worth the money to save the hassle of fabbing & flaring that stuff.
Had i known about that other valve when i did mine, i would have done htat in a second.
When i did mine, i just got a generic (truck) disk/drum prop valve, and wound up cutting, reflaring the rear line & bending new front lines to work with it. Pain in the butt.
Its worth the money to save the hassle of fabbing & flaring that stuff.
Had i known about that other valve when i did mine, i would have done htat in a second.
I can't remember which has it, inline tube or right stuff, or CPP, but one of hte companies that specialzes in all the reproduction brake stuff has an all in one proportioning valve that sits in the factory spot that 66 & 67's used for their combo valve or T (66's just had the T)... that way you can re-use your rear & front L&R brake lines w/o modifying them.
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