Convert from power to manual brakes
Convert from power to manual brakes
Looking to convert from power to manual brakes. I have a few questions....
Going with a 1" bore MC....will this bolt directly on the existing studs on the firewall or is a bracket/adapter needed?
This is the MC I believe I need....
https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...emno=261-13269
Will the valve on this setup replace the current metering block? (front disc, rear drum OEM type brakes)
There is the potential I will convert the rears to disc in the future. Will this MC work for that setup as well if I decide to go that route?
Going with a 1" bore MC....will this bolt directly on the existing studs on the firewall or is a bracket/adapter needed?
This is the MC I believe I need....
https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...emno=261-13269
Will the valve on this setup replace the current metering block? (front disc, rear drum OEM type brakes)
There is the potential I will convert the rears to disc in the future. Will this MC work for that setup as well if I decide to go that route?
When going to manual brakes, you will want the smallest bore size possible. I am currently running a 15/16" master on a 67 Camaro convertible with 13" discs all around. It stops good, but I plan to go down to a 7/8" for even better stopping. The adjustable prop valve from wilwood will replace the your original distribution block. Plan on taking it out and fine tuning it. wilwood has a well described adjustment procedure. If you are working on a 67-72 A-body, the wilwood master will fit. I had to enlarge the center firewall hole on the Camaro a little to get the rubber boot to go through.
Last edited by Loaded68W34; Mar 10, 2024 at 01:47 PM.
The factory used a 1" master on the manual disc brake W-cars. We still don't know what car or brakes the OP has. Of course, most people don't realize that Olds built a couple of cars besides the 1970-72 A-bodies.
Assuming the front discs are the OEM-style single piston calipers, the easiest way to do this is to simply use the 1" bore M/C used on the W-cars. I have this on my 70 W30 and it stops just fine. Pedal pressure is not unreasonable. A smaller bore in the M/C will reduce required pedal force but also requires more pedal travel to move the same amount of fluid. This can be a problem if the rear shoes are worn and the self-adjusters are not keeping up. If the rear brakes are properly adjusted, this will be fine.
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