defiant1

Looking for feedback on the best way to install the long section of brake line that runs from the distribution block to the rear axle of the '70 Cutlass (A body).


I am trying to find the best way without bending the lines too much in order to get it in its location.


The body is still connected to the chassis and I have dual exhaust to contend with and I don't have a hoist, so the car is on 4 jack stands so I can wheel around on a creeper underneath.


I already have the old line out, but the ends had to be bent to aid in extraction.


d1

Oldsmaniac

I usually end up doing the long line in 2 sections, makes it pretty easy. I use a union to connect the 2.

defiant1

I thought about that. Will applying the typical flared ends to the lines suffice when applying the union?


d1

pogo69

you can buy the the pre bent one piece line that is also wire armored like the factory it takes a little massaging to get it in but it will work and look good

defiant1

That is what I have in stainless steel. Just looking for the best method that will prevent kinks or leaks etc.


d1

pogo69

i'm not sure how easy it is to bend the stainless but i would suggest getting the rear attached first there is a frame bracket by the rear wheel that is sometimes impossible to remove with the body on but you need to see....just unbend the line where they tell you and snake the rear part thru the frame gap whuch will require you to straighten the end of the line somewhat you can take a pre picture to see how it bent if you have a tube bending tool use that a little at a time once you get it thru the frame you need to rebend it back to the way it was to connect it to the rear brake bracket hose....connecting to the front dist block should be easy....once you get going it will work out its easier than lifting the body

Oldsmaniac

If you cannot get 2 pieces that will work you will have to cut and re-flare. The factory uses a double flare and I have a tool to replicate this...

I have never tried to use the premade repro one piece lines, looks like a pain to install and the lines are so inexpensive. It is not hard to bend them yourself for a good look and fit.

therobski

Check this out www.brakequip.com. I have used this product on my 64 pro-touring build and my 67. Easy bend comes in a roll plenty for a one piece main line to the rear. Some European auto makers are using this on the assembly line.

therobski

here is a few images

jcmoretti

I just did SS lines from inline tube and the rear line worked fine but I had the engine out. Those lines do feel rigid and I worried about kinking them even with my access.


I just looked at my car and I don't think there is any way I could get the line back in now that the engine and headers are in. Perhaps you'll have better luck.


Also, note that in my case, the fitting for the distribution block thingy under the hood was wrong. I only found this out after installing the line and in my case it wasn't a huge dealing pulling the line out. My car is a mut so I assume it was the car, not the fitting from inline tube.


I have probably only done 10-15 brake flares in my life so I am a novice. But I must say that I could not do a double flare on that SS with my tools/skill. I settled for a single flare and hope it'll hold.


Ultimately I wish I just bought steel lines.


Good luck.

therobski

Steel lines are harder to bend. Easy Bend is great.

jcmoretti

Yeah, I've actually used it, or something similar and you are right about that.


I was saying that for pre-bent lines, I'd go steel next time so that any modifications are easier.

Octania

therobski, you ought to cover some of those exposed electrical junctions on the inner fender well. Better safe than sorry.

rustyroger

I have always used cupro/nickel tubing for replacement brake lines. Readily available at any UK auto parts store. Easy to work with and won't corrode.
Unless you want your car exactly as it left the factory I can't think of anything better.

I have probably made several miles of brake line with it, and never had a failure.

Roger.

therobski

Octania, thanks for noticing that. When I'm finished with the rest of the wiring, I have caps for the circuit breaker terminals.

rr480

I just replaced some of my brake lines with copper nickel lines from advance auto parts easy to bend, no kinks,never rust, I will never use steel lines again!

defiant1

In retrospect, that is probably what I should have done. The stainless steel lines I used were factory bent, but I had to cut in half to install. But I did not realize I could not use the tools I had on hand to make 45* double flare ends like I used with the regular steel lines.


So, I spent another $300 to get a hydraulic flaring tool and the double flares were easy after that. This project got expensive in a hurry.


On a separate note, my front brake conversion stops the car well and it no longer wants to jerk to the right when braking. But my pedal seems to travel farther to the floor before the brakes engage. Any idea if this is normal or what I can look for. Maybe bleed the brakes again????


d1

don71

Yes, bleed them again.

You still have drums and shoes in the back right? If not, ignore this--Make sure the shoes are adjusted to where they just start to rub on the drums. Ever so slightly.

defiant1

I had not heard of that procedure before, as I thought they self adjusted when stopping while going in reverse. Your advice makes sense though, I will tackle the rear drums.

Allan R

Standard procedure for installing new drums or shoes. The self adjustment is for afterwards as the shoes start wearing, which is so slight it's almost moot.

defiant1

Okay, I am on the third attempt at bleeding the brakes after the front disk conversion. The brake pedal is going to the floor and the brakes are not engaging hardly at all. The M/C was bench bled before install. I have fluid coming out of all 4 corners and no leaks anywhere.

I am using a assistant to push the brake pedal and hold to get any air out of the lines. It seems the M/C has air in it. This model has the bleeder screws, so can I just bleed the M/C in the car using the same process as the bench bleed?

Also, which reservoir in the M/C is supposed to lose fluid when bleeding the front/rear? I seem to be emptying the rearmost reservoir when bleeding vs. the front that only loses a little bit.

Thoughts? The car is not safe to drive as is.

pogo69

to avoid a mess put a clear plastic tube over the mc bleeder screw and put the tube in a 20 oz plastic soda bottle 1/2 filled with 1/2 brake fluid and with the tube submerged crack the screw and slowly pump untill thr line is just pumping fluid... the larger mc well is for the front mostly use on the single bale cover mc's

Allan R

The front reservoir is for the front, the rear is for the rears. If you have air in the MC you need to take it off and bench bleed it again when it's horizontal. The angle it sits on the car will never let the air out.

defiant1

Well, it worked. I used your method for the M/C. I also did all four corners afterward using the same method. It was messy (pulling hose off the bleeder shot fluid everywhere), but it seemed to work as well as it did with the M/C. I have a brake pedal that is responsive. All I have left to do is adjust the drums, so they engage properly.

Thanks.

kitfoxdave

A bit late for this, but when I did my SS brake lines and fuel lines, I undid the body mount bushings and replaced them at the same time... Once you do that, you end up with a little more space, and installing the lines becomes easy! Bleeding them is just a JOY!