I'm replacing the proportioning valve on my '72. Got all of the lines off except the large one that goes to the back wheels.(it's always the last one that is trouble) Needless to say, it is not coming loose. I have the valve removed, but the flare-nut is still on the line frozen to a larger 1 1/16" piece that was screwed into the valve. I would like get them apart, because if I cut the line and reflare with a new nut, I'm not sure I will have length to reach the new valve threads. And I am not set up to replace the whole line to the rear wheels. I tried faithful old vise grips while holding the larger nut, to no avail. Any suggestions? Chumley

 

So you've got the valve off and it's just that the nut isn't turning on the tube? What angle is it at? A babyfood jar full of ATF/acetone will loosen up just about anything if you can get it in and leave it soak overnight.

 

Did you already round the nut?

 

Yes, the nut was already rounded a bit before I went out and spent $40 on a set of flare-nut wrenches. The problem is not the nut frozen to the line, but frozen to the other large nut that was part of the valve. That large nut I was able to free, and just spun the valve off of it. So now it is just the two nuts that are conjoined. Tranny fluid and acetone mixed together you said? Is acetone the same as nail polish remover? I was going to take a picture of this, but after an hour and a half my frustration level was off the chart! The only problem I see with the soaking is that the end of the line with the nut faces upward, and well, gravity being what it is....Any suggestions getting around that?

 

Since you accomplished your mission in separating the bad part. Why not just screw on the new valve and tighten with a vise grips. The alternative is to cut the old pieces off and extend the line.

 

So you have a small roundish former hex on the line and a larger hex at the end of that?

Can't get up in there to apply enough force to loosen the two?

I will suggest to grip the smaller as best you can with the locking pliers
Then apply an impact tool to the larger end fitting.

Impact will do things that slow force will not do.
Keep ahold of the vice grips to prevent twisting off the line.

Add a bit of heat to the larger part if at all possible before applying the impact.

Turn down the impact to a low level to start with.

 

Heat always helps get stuck things apart...

 

Whenever I run into a situation as frustrating as this I always find a BFH helpful. A torch is another helpful tool in this situation. Either mall the crap out of the offensive part or cut the heck out of it with the torch. After it is completely destroyed you feel so much better and are able to proceed to buy new parts that work somewhat correctly

 

Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. I think I will end up cutting the line and splicing in a new section, although I hate creating additional potential spots for leaks. The new valve differs a little from the old one, so I cannot screw it onto the old existing fitting. I have had good success with my 50 year old or so flaring tool( they made stuff good back then) so I will give it a shot and let you know the results for the benefit of the next guy who runs into this problem. By the way, what is a BFH? Thanks, Chumley

 

BFH is a Big F'n Hammer.

 

Yeah, and it also does a great job of melting the rubber and plastic parts inside the combo valve...

 

As opposed to a LFH.............................

 

F = Fat in polite company
Big Fat Hammer

 

power blaster buddy it works fantastic.

 

I felt the same way about using a torch. Something about an open flame around flammable liquids. I'm waiting for the first winter storm we've had here in California this year to abate before I go out and try to finish this repair. Day 3, and already about 8 inches have fallen. ( I know, this is small potatoes compared to you guys back east, but it's all relative) I'll post as I make progress. Chumley

 

It is probably too late for this but there have been a few occasions where I have clamped the vise grips down on the outside of the flare nut wrench to keep it from slipping. Sounds like I may be too late to the dance with this.

 

The three tricks that I have found most helpful over the years have been:

1. Grasp the offending flare nut (even if not that rounded... yet) with a pair of small curved-jaw Vise-Grips.
   It has to be the small ones, because the larger ones have a larger diameter jaw curve, and won't grip properly.
2. Back up the other part (in your case, the larger nut) with something very hard and steady.
   In some cases, the socket is already backed up, as in a wheel cylinder or similar, but in others it is not, as in a hose-end that goes through a sheetmetal bracket.
   The socket must be backed up by something solid, hard and non-yielding, and this can be helped by putting a pair of BIG Vise-Grips around it.
3. Once you have little Vise-Grips clipped tightly to the nut, and the other end well backed up, hit the Vise-Grips on the nut sharply with the biggest hammer you can fit into the area.
   The sharp blows will loosen it, but if the Vise-Grips are loose, or if the nut is not backed up, the blows will not be sharp, and you will make a mess of it.

Also, use lots of penetrating oil.

- Eric

 

Well, I ended up doing a bowel section(cutting the line about 10" from the valve). I did manage to break free the flare nut after removing the section of line(and letting it sit for a week with 40 year old Liquid Wrench and then smacking it good with a hammer) something I could NOT do under the car. This just allows me to determine the correct size for the new valve.( 9/16"-18 Thanks Joe P. for the picture of replacement valve I saw on another thread for verification) Here are some pix(in the next post) of the offending parts, as well as the new valve. Notice the new valve is threaded to accept the rear line directly, unlike the original Bendix part, with that large nut that the flared end of the line fit into. Next I will fabricate new section of line with my tubing bender and splice into place. Chumley

 

Having a bear of a time editing my photos to shrink them to uploadable size. Paint program has been corrupted. I used to use it all the time to shrink photos for this site. Windows sucks big time. Anyway, here are a few. Was hoping to get some close-ups, but thanks to Bill Gates and company, no-can-do.

 

I had forgotten... in those events where you are removing a junk line, which is probably the case if it's so rusty as to be a problem, remember that you are trashing the line, so it's OK to just cut that thing right off BEFORE you round off the nut. Then with no line in the way, use a SIX point wrench, or socket with an impact if at all possible. Or even the inside twist mangled fastener removal socket.

With the larger background part held sturdy still as best you can as set forth above.

 

or you MAW change all the lines out to stainless...and while you are doing that, put disc brakes all around... and notice the springs are not holding the car up as high as they should... and those control arm bushings really could stand to be replaced...

GRAB THE HELMET QUICK!

as for pictures, did you try windows picture manager? easier than paint and resizing is a breeze....

 

... or just get a Mac.
(seriously, an old one from eBay would probably be better than a newer PC).

- Eric

 

If I were keeping this car for myself, I would do all of the above and more. Money and time are issues. Just trying to get it on the road again ASAP.Where is Windows picture manager? I am running Vista, do not recall coming across it. And Yes, my next desktop will be a Mac. I have an older PC I am planning on installing XP on and going back in time when things were less complicated.( not going to be used on the internet, just for some older applications) Chumey

 

Here is the new section of line to go on when I feel like crawling under the car. The new 9/16"-18 flare nut for 1/4" tubing cost me $6.50. Brake shop said it was a rare size anymore. Metric taking over?

Chumley