You realize that I've been bitten and am now fully infected by the might as well bug, don't you? Now I might as well clean up the LCA and UCA, the air dam, and what the heck, I'm going to do all the pitman, idlers, shafts and ball joints now. Why wait?? Talked to my neighbor tonight (ex wrench puller - in training to be a cop) and he says it just makes sense to do all this once instead of taking it apart again. Wish I'd started in July or August though. This might take a month to get done.

I think I'll also do the back brakes. I need to take the wheels off anyway so I can detail them and have them rebalanced. It will also make it easier to bleed the system when the time comes..This time I plan to put the raised white letters out instead of having blackwalls showing. Then.......I need to pull the rad and have it re-cored. While I'm at it I may as well put in my new water pump, fan shroud, fan, fan clutch, change the coolant, replace all the heater hoses, backflush the system, and do an oil change. Then I'm going to drop the bumpers, install my new grills, install my cutout bumper. I'll get the tips installed in the spring. I'm starting to live in a fantasy world aren't I??

 

You forgot to mention the radiator support. I bet it needs repainting like mine...
(another grenade tossed into the foxhole)

Yep, rockauto ships worldwide. Look for the discount codes I listed in the announcements.
Don't forget your control arm bushings.

 

 

Status report:
Bought a BFH today, + stabilizer link kit. The BFH is only 2.5 lbs but has a rubber grip and the shaft/head are all one unit. Lifetime warranty. $10.00, not bad - really easy to hold and swing.
The link kits were 9.00 each. Inner grease seals 4.50 each. Stabilizer bushings: I'm thinking 1" but am not sure. Rob you said the bar is .937? Only one end is square - the other is round. Does that make a difference? Maybe I should go smaller? I measured the ovaled out bushings and they look to be about 1". If I buy 15/16" that may be a better fit considering there was a little wear on the stabilizer bar and I want it to fit snug. What do you think?

Introduced the BFH to the ball joints on the LCA. Whack Whack Whack POP.
Then the upper ( a little more stubborn) 6 Whacks, then POP. Out came the spindle. Cleaned it up and painted. Looks amazing. Only thing left to do on this side is clean the control arms, replace BJs, and install new shocks. May as well do the shocks and BJs all at the same time.

Starting disassembly of Drivers side.
This side is fighting even harder than the passenger side. Thought I was going to break my 3/8 hex taking out the caliper bolts! Took off the caliper and mount, backing plate. Started working on the caliper. Now that I know what to do, pretty easy. There was no gasket between the spindle and the hub. How necessary is it? I have the one from the other side and could probably make a set from some gasket material.

Problem child bleeder screw was there again. So I torched it and tried to unscrew it. The head sheared off in my socket. Tried to drill it and easy out, but no dice. Called EBC and they will machine it out and retap it for about 114.00. So I called NAPA and ordered a replacement for 33.00

Put final coat of paint on stabilizer. It could pass for new.


Checked out rockauto. Made a list and went shopping. The parts came to 110.00 Shipping was 106.00. I did a double take. They ship from different locations. So one group of parts was costing 30, another 25, 27, and 28. That's just retarded, I can buy the same parts here for the price it costs to ship. So I set it up for a US address and the price to ship came from 110 to around 35.00, so you guys down in the US count your blessings on car part pricing and shipping. I don't get the reason it costs so much to cross border ship.

I thought it would be a great idea to drive down, install all the parts on my car and then drive it home. Oh yeah, it's on jack stands with no front brakes......maybe I'll check out otterzone or O'Reillys , PepBoys?

RE: Steering shafts, collar, tie rods, Pitman arms, center link etc. They attach to the power steering pump and to a bracket on the Pass side before getting hooked up to the steering arms. If I take everything off, can I reuse the pitman arms, center link and just install new grease joints. I think I will replace both tie rod ends and collar because the threads are going to be so buggered up it will be almost impossible to to an alignment. That should also make it a lot easier on the alignment shop. Maybe they'll cut me a price break for all new parts??? wishful thinking.

 

You can reuse any of those parts. THe pitman arm is a non-wear item, so leave it on the steering gear. The grease joints are not replaceable but you can remove them and clean them up and check for looseness. Not sure if grease boots are even available. I ordered mine al new and assembled it all yesterday. 4 tie rod ends, 2 adjuster sleeves, one idler, and one center link - 400 bucks worth of 5' long iron hanging from the garage ceiling.

 

Cereal Box for a gasket? Are you serious?
Got a pic of your steering you can share? I'll salvage as much as I can from my car. Only thing is I'll have to take the assembly off as an assembly just to work on it.

Re: what year is my car? It's 72, just like Lady. Mine was built On April 7, 1972 - got the broadcast sheet to prove it.

Re: steering parts. I think in the interest of not pissing off the alignment shop, the very least I'll do is put on new idler arms and adjuster collar.

Took back the press today. Figured that I may as well get all the other crap cleaned up first, then I'll do the BJs. I have to drill both uppers. the BJ should just come out right? Maybe a whack on the stud to drive it up through the hole? I'll press out the lowers.

Clean the control arms really good and install the new BJs.
Remove old shocks, take out springs and clean/paint. Put in new shocks and pretty black springs. Tape off the BJs and paint the CAs. Fill BJs with grease and reassemble the front susp/brakes. I think this will keep me busy for a few days.

I'll keep you posted on the steering re-conditioning. Wow $400.00??? I can't afford that right now.

TTYL, thanks for the good info. BTW, Love what you've done in the engine bay. I'll go back and look at it later tonight. We had a 30°C day up here. That's probably mild by your standards - about 86°F.

 

 

Today was kind of a crap shoot.
Decided to go to pick up my parts and get to work. A comedy of bloopers soon erupted.
1. Got to NAPA - they couldn't find the replacement caliper. So another had to be ordered. Handed over my core. New caliper ends up being 40.00 - not bad. It'll be in around noon.
2. Wife calls me on the cell and says to spin on over to partsource. They have my stabilizer link kits in. Picked them up and headed home.
3. Opened the link kits at home and found one was missing a sleeve. So another one is ordered. Should be in after 2pm.
4. Decided to head over to NAPA after a delayed lunch. Got there at 2:00. You gotta be $hittin' me. They ordered a Left caliper and the warehouse shipped a Right. The calipers do look pretty amazing - they are rebuilt Delco Moraine and have all the proper castings and hardware - just add brake pads. It'll be in tommorrow.
5. Went over to Partsource and picked up the new stab link kit. Checked it on the spot - all the pieces were there - YAY! I win. Got it home and found the bolts were 2 different sizes. So when I go to install them, I'm going to put them in upside down so the nut is on the bottom of the LCA instead of having no clearance like the factory did it.
6. Bought some more paint. Decided I wanted the caliper mounts to be gold. So aside from running around a lot, I didn't get a lot done.

Now that I've seen Rob's 'new' steering assembly I started pricing a new one out up here. Just got a check for 500 bucks from a pension underpayment so it might just happen> either that or I'll dip into my savings a bit.


New stab link kits: Note 2 different sized bolts. Shoulders/thread are the same though. Should snug down no problem. Probably cut off any extra thead hanging down to far. The bolt and spacers are much beefier than OEM, and the nut is 9/16 instead of 1/2"


Just waiting to put in brake shoes and do the CA BJs. I'm very hopeful this will be complete next week. After reading through the CSM on Control Arm removal and install, I'm definitely not going to do that because my bushings actually look good. When I was taking the caliper mount apart, the area under the nut looked like it was originally cadmium plated. Decided to paint it with Gold caliper paint instead of silver.


Here's the sway bar. You can see from the pics one end is square, the other is round. So I've ordered 15/16" bushings for the reinstall.

 

hmmm..... I wonder where I heard that before????

 

Craig, You know exactly where you heard that before... But remember the only reason I'm buying this is because the bleeder valve sheared off in the caliper and I couldn't drill or get it to easy out. I called EBC and they quoted 114.00 (plus tax). The replacement is an delco moraine completely rebuilt. Includes all seals, piston, bleeder, copper crush washers for the banjo bolt, anti rattle clips and new caliper bolts. Clip in the brakes and it's ready for installation.

If the bleeder had come out peaceful like the other one, the caliper would have been rebuilt for about 7.00 without having to drive all over hells high acres and fighting the ongoing Edmonton construction madness.

Here, I'll say it. Craig - you were right about the price being competitive with your area . I'll post a pic of the new one when I've got all the parts in.

 

I want to see your luck with sway bar frame mount bushings. I have a set of brand #3 on order...

 

What happened with yours? Wrong set/diameter? I've got Moog bushings on order. They're over at partsource right now waiting for pickup. I'll make a circle trip to NAPA and Partsource in an hour or so. When I get the bushings, based on what you're saying I will take one of the stabilzer brackets with me to see if it fits properly before I accept it. I'll post a pic for you if it's good and give you the Moog number. BTW, the Moog number you gave me for the link kits isn't available up here in Canada. Today has a lot of promise. Both sides are disassembled. Drivers side will be on the cleanup list today.

FWIW, I talked to my Mrs. today about replacing all the front steering components (except the pitman off the steering box). She said, and I quote: "If it's old, just replace it". Then she realized what she had said.... Being a 'sensitive guy' who is 'in touch with his wife's feelings' I reminded her that she would always be '29' to me. Anyway, she approves of the spending spree I may soon be on. I priced the tie rods and both sets of inner/outers are 44.00 each. The center link is about 86.00. Pitman is 41. Adjusting collars are 19.00 each. I may be able to pull this off for around the 325.00 mark (tax in). No shipping costs.

That would also let me get to the lower engine cradle area for cleanup (looks a little gungy right now. I can see how easy it is to get to the 'might as well' phase of this hobby. But, I'm really quite enjoying it. Now about the CAs, you had a ton of working space inside the engine compt. Tell you what, maybe next year when the engine comes out????? and only if it really needs it. OH, you'll like this: My wife and I talked about the engine this morning and she's ok with a total rebuild next spring!!! Time to start planning what I want to do with it!!!

 

Rob,
Just got back. The stabilizer bushing is a 15/16" although the hole looks a lot smaller. Guess that's so it will hold the stabilizer.
Should compress ok, or if it stays too tall I can shave it a bit. The Moog number is K5241 - comes 2 in the box although its labeled as 1. Cost is 13.95 Have a look

The old bushing does extend below the 2 flanges, but the cutout for the stab is so worn it has about 1/8" of slop when it's on the bar.


The new bushing fits the bracket really well and you can see how much better the fit will be on the stab bar. I tried it and it fits nice and tight.
Compressed with 40 ft/lbs on the 2 bracket bolts should make this just right.

 

You definately have a keeper there Allan!!!!

That bushing looks HUGE for the bracket.

 

iz why I like the Hotchkis billet alum front sway bar bushing brackets... eliminates any and all install issues of stock bushing brackets... squeezing brackets in so bolts can get threaded, etc.

 

Thx Craig. The bushing does look big, but theres a couple of mm of clearance on the sides of the bracket that will take up some of the bulge. I'm counting on it compressing a lot. When it's snugged down I'll see if there's a gap between the bracket and frame. If there is, I'll shave some of the lower portion till it fits right. BTW the instructions say NOT to put rubber lube ANYWHERE on the bushing or it will squeak. I would have thought it would be the other way around....oh well.

Got everything except the rotor/hub on the DS cleaned and painted today. Partsource gave me a new 7 3/4" bolt for my stab link kit. Things are definitely looking up. I'm hoping to have my car back together before Rob , but we'll see

 

This.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-bushings.html

Set 3 is Moog. Hopefully this will be the last.

So are the control arm bushings old?

You do not need a pitman unless yours is wallowed out. It is a non-wear item.
You should be getting 2 outer tie rods, 2 inner tie rods, a center link and an idler arm. Also a full set of control arm bushings.

Pull the inner fender wells. Will give you a LOT more room.

Why not now?


This will be interesting...

 

 

CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS!
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS!
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS!
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS!
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS!
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS!
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS!
CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS!
..........................


I will be watching for a "what's this sqeaking sound in my suspension" thread from you. When it happens, you will want to ban me from it before it gets started...

Seriously, I was joking about the engine pull. However, since you removed the spindles and springs, the hard part is done.
With the right tools and use of them, the control arm bushings were rather easy, especially the uppers. I went into detail in my thread, so if you follow the instructions, it is easy. Now I found the secrets, I could have them all done in an hour or so.
Still wanna fly me up there?
Actually, my mom is on a train in the Rockies right about now... Must be nice.

Oh - replace the upper control arm mounting bolts - the ones with splines that press into the frame. When those break, bad things happen. Been there done that. Breakage seems a bit common, too, as those are high stress areas.

 

My hands and fingers are starting to hurt from all that wire wheeling and sanding. Dull achey pain. Time for some Advil, then I'll get back at it. Today I think I'll rebuild the hubs. BTW I found the other gasket on the DS. It was stuck to the spindle under all that grease/crap. I don't think it's there for sealing purposes, it looks more like it's to prevent metal/metal contact on between the backing plate and the steering knuckle. Maybe a vibration or sound deterent?? Can't think of any other good reason to put a gasket there.

I'll add the cost of (upper/lower) CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS for my next visit to NAPA. Going to order the steering components on Monday. As you can see, the Dark side is swaying me down a path I didn't want to originally follow. But I'm starting to feeeeel the Pooowwer. Just tossed my aluminum foil skull cap

 

IIRC, I still have 2 x NIB sets of Moog front upper/lower OEM CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS (not sure on ball joints though) if interested (one 'round' and one 'oval' set IIRC). All new from Rock Auto. I ended up going with all poly bushings from Energy Suspension.

... big nough font der?

 

OLDZY, you slay me!! LOL

 

I also have those new from dealership OEM rubber spindle seals. I think I have 6 left. They are tricky to put on... have to glue ( I used grease) to keep them in place when mounting the backing plate. Repos are a gasket material... OEM is rubber.

 

I am your overlord

 

Ok I must have pressed a wrong button because the permalink 'posted itself'. Anyway oldzy, ya da font be big enough fer me!!!

There is no difference between 72 Supreme and Sport control arms, so what kind of $$ you looking for? If it costs less to buy from you and ship out here I could go for that. Don't worry about Ball Joints, I have all 4. Ordering steering parts tommorrow, so if you get back to me with a pm on $$ asap that would be cool, although I have to say in advance (and in all honesty) the shipping will probably be the deal breaker?? Thanks for thinking of me...

 

Did not know that? I had planned to re-use the originals. Do you know why they had those seals? From what I can see, the inner grease seal should take care of any grease issues, and the rubber seal you are talking about is on the other side of the backing plate. Is my theory (above) right.

OVERLORD??? I don't think so When my wife reads this, she will give your @ss a long distance kick Only 1 overlord allowed / household!

 

I would likely give a better deal than Rock Auto or local NAPA even with shipping included... just so I can free up space in the garage. I have new Moog parts taking up a whole shelf in one of the cabinets where my Chassis Service/Assembly Manuals and resides. I could use that space for dirty **** mags or something.

I have several new parts I never used. ie. Brand new complete set of AC Delco tie rods, Moog sleeves, calipers, complete OEM style brake line set from ILT, etc.

I will get back to you after dindin with some prices... and pics of course.

 

I think it is more of a vibration thing between metal-metal contact. You could re-use them if they are ok. No doubt they are flatter than a pancake like mine were.

 

Actually that`s why I thought they were gaskets . Probably could reuse the old ones but if I can get some new ones Im interested in a set of those. Maybe see if Rob if he would like a set too. Rob, you watchin this...

 

Oldzy, one more thing I forgot to tell you. The parts at NAPA I can get with corporate discount. That brings the cost way below what the average guy pays. Eg: the brake pads I bought were premium: Retail 83.00 corporate cost 55.00. Actually, all the prices are listed in permalink 52. Only thing I didn't post was the idler arm. Anyway, I'm looking forward to your pics and $$ comparison.

 

Some pics...

K5161's on far left are rear uppers. I tried to install one, but was too tight, then installed poly instead.
K5149's are the oval/round ones for bottom, two bushings per box.
K5196's are the upper bushings, 2 per box (note that the 4 on top are extras when I bought my pair of Moog upper arm shaft kits)
K5103/5108's are upper/lower ball joints.
***all bushings say Made in Mexico on boxes... except for ball joints



Extra set of front ES poly bushings. This kit has the oval bushings on one side of the lower front arm. I used the all round kit instead after I got nicer control arms from Glenn Lever. No grease included (used it on my Currie Currectrac rear lowers), but I believe I have an extra tube somewhere.





These older style front upper shafts I 'believe' are new but not sure (bushings were/are though). Glenn Lever removed them b/c I mentioned to him I was going to use my own Moog K5250 shafts and poly bushings.



Edelbrock and PST adj sleeves. Edelbrokes seem to be rusting a bit already through the zinc plating. I mounted them a few times, then removed them, as I already have Hotchkis ones. The PST ones look identical to Hotchkis ones, and are actually purtier (both are powdercoated). Below that are four of those rubber OEM spindle/backing plate gaskets mentioned. One needed on each side.



ES2004S tie rod sleeves, 1 per box



In re to my complete set of AC Delco tie rods... I am going to keep them for now until I confirm my Moog ones fit fine (I had the threaded end cut recently).

Howz aboot you get some pricing, let me know, then I will beat it by 1 penny, okay 2 pennies perhaps? Saves me from adding everything up again.

 

Luke, my boy - you must CONCENTRATE!
Reread my front end thread, you are missing the details that make the job easy!

The control arms were pulled with the liners there. It is just a little more difficult - you do not need to pull them. If you do, BAD things will happen. You will find ugly crap that will need repainting, stripping, replacing...........

The ball joint press will work for the bushings. The adapters that are included will work, but you will need to get a few pipe fittings at the hardware store to use with the press also. Details are in my thread.

Also, my special C-clip tool thingie is nothing but a big flat washer with a notch cut in it. Specs are in my thread.

Make note which shims went where. They can be reused. Those bolts you pictured are the ones. 7/16" dia. Just replace them. They can snap without warning - I had it happen.

I put my cereal box looking gaskets on my spindles, so they are done.

My Moog sway bar bushings are different as verts and heavier and they got the 0.97" dia bar.

You and oldzy are both in canada i think - would postage be that high??

 

Today I soaked all the bolts that will be coming out with penetrating oil. Doused them 2X. Holy Shamoly does that stuff stink up a garage.

Got the upper ball joint rivets drilled. Just need to get a drift to break them out. Tomorrow. Cleaned up a lot of the bolts I took out so far. Amazing how much time that consumes. But then when everything goes back together, it won't fight with me, and it will look good too!

Apparently I need a deep 9/16 socket to get that stupid shock nut at the top off. The ones at the bottom came off like they had just been put on (feel the power of the penetrating oil Luke....). Dont have any rebar to wedge into the spring so I'm going to X my fingers and just let the jack down. Right now I've got it square under the LBJ. Might need to raise the car a little before the final lowering of the CA? This stuff doesn't seem to be really hard, it just takes time to prep and plan the work.

 

How long till you know about the tie rods? It would be nice to bundle some of the stuff and clear out that space for new **** rags....

Haven't got the pricing done today. I am interested in some - not all the parts you listed. eg: I already have my upper & lower ball joints. The bushings on the control arm shaft and shaft were already pressed into place in the CAs. Will that affect them being reinstalled again? My CA shaft looks to be in good shape, but if you've already got the bushings on them...

I want to be clear about something well in advance. Just to make sure that I understand the offer you made. Whatever parts I buy from you, the total amount I will pay (no GST/PST or HST or I Keel you); including shipping to me in Edmonton, will be less than what it would cost me to drive down to my local NAPA store and buy them? It's a very lucrative offer and I just want to make sure that we both understand the same thing.

 

Sounds like you got the wrong washer. One cheapo 5/8" flat does the job - center hole needs to be 0.7"...

I found it easier to chisel out the upper ball joint once the rivet bottoms are drilled. Do not expect those rivets to just popout - they are bonded to the ball joint plate up top. I hammered a lot with a drift going nowhere before I realized that...

Hope your upper shock nuts come off - my fingers are crossed. If not, those nut cracker things would work.

 

 

HST!
HST!
HST!
HST!
yallz got it lucky over there.... or was that BC? Cannoot recall eh.

I know now... I will just use my Moogs. If too long still, will just trim the threads again.

I would likely not use those bushings (or the shafts) on that upper ctrl arm shaft pic I posted... that was mostly for craps n giggles. Also, those shafts I pictured are likely not the correct for our year, and might be originals. Mine has a nut on the ends... and the one pictured has a bolt on the end. They came with the upper control arms from G. Lever... prob off a Chevelle or something. When I got the upper control arms (I also got a nice set of original front lower arms from him as well), I took them all over to a local garage to have all the bushings/joints put in.

FYI... I have 5 rods in total (well 6 six actually... the 6th one is a defect that I have yet to mail back to Rock Auto). The ones that say 'Assembled in USA' on box... say 'Made in USA' on rods themselves, and have blue boots. Ones that say 'Made in USA' on box... say nothing on the rods (some symbols n stuff), and have black boots.

I need a price first, to know whether I can do the 'free' shipping thing.

 

Drill the rivet heads out on the bottom (grease boot and stud) side as per the CSM. Then cold chisel the remains of the heads off.
The rivets seem to be pressed in the top side of the ball joint super tight - do not expect the rivets to pop out by themselves with a punch.
You can use a drift punch on all of them, BUT - be sure to support the control arm and NOT the ball joint top bracket/housing. That will need to come off, rivets and all. I used a cold chisel between the ball joint top bracket and contol arm and the wedging popped it out.
Clear as mud, eh? Pound hard enough and it should come off.





I found it easier to chisel out the upper ball joint once the rivet bottoms are drilled. Do not expect those rivets to just popout - they are bonded to the ball joint plate up top. I hammered a lot with a drift going nowhere before I realized that...

???You drill the bottoms too? Or did you just keep drilling the center till it went all the way through the rivet? Didn't see that in the CSM or your thread??? How are the BJs bonded - rust or glue? I have metal chisels. Do you just go under the BJ and keep whacking till it separates? Only thing I saw in your thread was 'light tap with cold chisel to separate'

 

I think you know what I did wrong now. For some inexplicable reason I didn't tweak to the fact that I was drilling the top rivets out. Well they're gone now so I'll do the bottoms. The control arms are still on the car so it might be a little awkward...but drilling the rivets from both sides should make the BJ top plate quite a bit more loose and it should easily cold chisel off. I'll let you know how it turns out later. Man I feel like such a putz!

 

Oldzy, we don't need no stinkin HST. GST is bad enough without more of a money grab.

I phoned NAPA this morning and I don't think you can beat their prices.

For what I need, your price would have to be less than 90.00 including shipping and with the weight/size of the package that's just not likely so I ordered all the stuff from NAPA. I'm sure there will be others in your area who might need the parts and you can get better return without having to ship. I really appreciate your willingness to help out though

I am very interested in those rubber seals for the OEM rubber spindle backing plate gaskets. How much to you want for a set of those?

Here's how my Napa pricing breaks down.
Upper CA bushings 2 sets @ 11.22 each
Lower CA bushings rear 2 @ 22.99 each
Lower CA bushings front 2 @ 11.99
Idler arm 48.29
Center link 69.04
Tie Rod sleeves 2 @ 11.44 each
Inner tie rods 2 @ 37.69 each
Outer tie rods 2 @ 37.69 each
Tie rod sleeves 2 @ 11.44 each.
Shocks (Monroe sensa trac) 2 @ 39.77 each
Grand total (tax in) 488.43

Rob, FWIW the steering parts came to a total of 305.52 (tax in + NO Shipping) Finally found a great deal up here in Canada. I think I need those CA mount bolts/nuts. Fusick has them for 24.00/set NO ONE here has them and I don't want to wait 2 or 3 weeks for Fusicks order to get here. If I understand correctly, the spline is to hold the bolt from turning when you cinch the nut down? Why wouldn't a Gr 8 bolt and a lock nut work just as well? Not an engineer, but when a lock nut 'locks' on, it's not going to let the bolt move. Am I missing something?