Hey all! Car is equipped with 4 wheel drum and a single stage master cylinder. I would like to have a 4 wheel disc, but, $$$$$, enough said. I would like to swap to front discs and keep the rear drums. Source a 2 stage master and I am set. Can run my own hard lines but will need to source the flex lines. Also any specifics on the proportioning valve setup would be handy. Basically want to know what all is required. Unless of course, a 4 wheel disc conversion is somehow more affordable and easier to source. Either way, thanks in advance for any advice yall got.

 

I recall a thread on this topic, with many suggestions, helpful data, and techniques to get there. I also recall that much wisdom was shared in defining the "need" for the change. The benefit-to-dollars ratio was highlighted by the actual braking improvements based on how you plan to drive your Olds. High-speed road racing, closed circuit corner braking, and throttle stomping? As the wisdom said, with a factory system and well-maintained equipment, you can come to a stop safely while out cruising within the speed limit. If it's a matter of coffee time fodder at the donut shop, money should not be a problem, Just my 2 cents, drive on in your Oldsmobile.

 

What he said, but definitely get the dual master cylinder for safety reasons.

I looked into this a lot for my '68, and if my drums needed fully rebuilt front and back, I probably would have done it since a good front disc kit from Right Stuff or CPP wouldn't cost that much more. If you are certain you want to do it, I would look at either of those kits.

Also, google search is way better than the site search. Just type "site:classicoldsmobile.com xxx" in the search box where "xxx" is whatever topic you want to search. This kind of search will get you a lot of good results to read up on the pros and cons of the swap along with information about the different kits.

Good luck!

 

The least expensive way to do this is to buy and source the heavy parts (rotors, calipers, and M/C) locally. Hoses are also available anywhere (use 1969-72 A-body). Your original power brake booster can be used, but you'll need a M/C with the deep hole in the piston. These are readily available from the aftermarket, as are the combo valves. Yes you can bend your own lines, but be aware that the ports in the M/C and combo valve use a variety of thread sizes to preclude misconnecting lines. You'll want the flare nut assortment that includes these.

 

Many have come down this road before only to have bad results with a car that stops worse. Factory engineering still works well. These cars stopped great back in the day and still can with all new parts for your existing brake system.

 

Im a third year auto tech in alberta, want the experience under my belt of doing the swap and would love the challenge. Factory would be great, just want to get some hands on. Have plenty of experts around me to iron out the wrinkles.