1970 Cutlass adjusting/moving brake distribution/prop block and lines

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Old Mar 27, 2024 | 06:44 AM
  #1  
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1970 Cutlass adjusting/moving brake distribution/prop block and lines

Has anyone moved/adjusted the location of their brake distribution block due to interference for headers? One of the lines actually interferes and the block is very close to the DS header. It would be great to see how others have handled this situation. Tools, location, methods, final outcome, etc.
Thanks all,
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 09:05 AM
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Pretty much everyone who's installed headers has done this, so yes to your question.
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 09:11 AM
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Ok!!

Looking forward to seeing how others have handled this situation. Tools, location, methods, final outcome, etc.
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by rfpowerdude
Ok!!

Looking forward to seeing how others have handled this situation. Tools, location, methods, final outcome, etc.
Perhaps that was the question you wanted to ask initially?

If your car is an AT car, you can move the combo valve or distribution block to the top of the frame rail where the clutch Z-bar pivot bracket would go without even disconnecting the lines. I've done this and used one of the pre-drilled clutch bracket holes in the frame to anchor it. There is also the option of mounting the combo valve under the M/C, but that requires making new lines.
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Perhaps that was the question you wanted to ask initially?
well, that text WAS in the original post.😉

Originally Posted by joe_padavano
If your car is an AT car, you can move the combo valve or distribution block to the top of the frame rail where the clutch Z-bar pivot bracket would go without even disconnecting the lines. I've done this and used one of the pre-drilled clutch bracket holes in the frame to anchor it. There is also the option of mounting the combo valve under the M/C, but that requires making new lines.
Sweet, I’ll lift the engine on that side, remove the header and see what I can do without pulling it all again.
Thanks Joe!
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 09:40 AM
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Pulling the steering shaft often helps
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
If your car is an AT car, you can move the combo valve or distribution block to the top of the frame rail where the clutch Z-bar pivot bracket would go without even disconnecting the lines. I've done this and used one of the pre-drilled clutch bracket holes in the frame to anchor it.
Joe, great info. Is it safe to assume this can be done on all 68-72 A-bodies (w/ AT)? Any issues w/ the column shift (or back-drive) mechanism?
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnnyBs68S
Joe, great info. Is it safe to assume this can be done on all 68-72 A-bodies (w/ AT)? Any issues w/ the column shift (or back-drive) mechanism?
Correct
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 10:02 AM
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Are there any issues w/ the column shift (or back-drive) mechanism?
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rfpowerdude
Are there any issues w/ the column shift (or back-drive) mechanism?
Nope. The headers would have been the problem there.
Old Mar 27, 2024 | 12:58 PM
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Here's what I did, and it worked great. I did have to replace the front lines but it was much easier than jacking up the engine and removing the header.



Old Mar 29, 2024 | 07:36 PM
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UPDATE:

@72455, what kit is that?

It's a good thing I started working on this. Turns out that the line from the combo/distr. block to the PS front has a slight crack in it and is the reason there is no fluid in the front half of the reservoir. I can just replace that one line and I should be good to go. I have the block moved up to the top of the frame rail now. Not a difficult task at all.
Old Mar 30, 2024 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by rfpowerdude
UPDATE:

@72455, what kit is that?

It's a good thing I started working on this. Turns out that the line from the combo/distr. block to the PS front has a slight crack in it and is the reason there is no fluid in the front half of the reservoir. I can just replace that one line and I should be good to go. I have the block moved up to the top of the frame rail now. Not a difficult task at all.
Here's the part numbers I used. These first 3 are from inline Tube:
BRK03A
CHB68A2
LNK10

And this is from Fusick
BPV712
Old Mar 30, 2024 | 09:14 AM
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Thanks a bunch!
Old Mar 30, 2024 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by rfpowerdude
Thanks a bunch!
No worries. Also, since you moved your prop valve to the top of the frame rail, is it easier to get to the plunger/button? Because that's the main reason I moved mine to the top...much easier access
Old Mar 30, 2024 | 09:38 AM
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I can’t remember ever needing to access that plunger, and I’ve been wrenching on my ‘70 and ‘71 since high school.
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