Moving brake dist block to accommodate headers

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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 04:55 PM
  #1  
bgoble's Avatar
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Moving brake dist block to accommodate headers

I need to move the distribution block and lines to make room for headers. I have no idea where to start or how to do this. Can someone get me started on this project. How do you bend the lines without ruining them. Any pics would be a big help also. I just dropped a fresh 350 rebuild in, the front clip is off so access is good. Bolts are in the motor mounts but only hand tightened. Any help is appreciated.
Old Nov 12, 2010 | 06:34 PM
  #2  
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First get an idea of where it will go. One bolt holds it to the frame. You will most likely have to disconnect a line or two or three to be able to bend lines some. A sharp bend will kink the line so go slow. After your done you will need to bleed the brake system. There are no set rules ya have to see as you go...
Old Nov 13, 2010 | 07:12 AM
  #3  
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This can really open up a can of worms on an older car. Unbolt the block and see if you can find a suitable location by gently massaging the lines without unbolting them from the block. You may have to like bgoble suggested.
Old Nov 13, 2010 | 11:47 AM
  #4  
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On AT cars, I've been able to unbolt the block and relocate it to the top of the frame rail, using one of the bolt holes that's there for the Z-bar support on MT cars. You should be able to do this without disconnecting the brake lines if you bend them carefully.
Old Nov 24, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
On AT cars, I've been able to unbolt the block and relocate it to the top of the frame rail, using one of the bolt holes that's there for the Z-bar support on MT cars. You should be able to do this without disconnecting the brake lines if you bend them carefully.
I am in a similar situation but the car is already apart. Front end is more or less removed with only the fenders still there but no fender wells. The lines have already been removed from the block since some of them needed replacing anyway. Every time I start looking for a place to put the block it seems in my minds eye that the lines coming down from the booster and MC will not have enough room because of the fender well. I have seen numerous references to doing this so I know it can be done. I would prefer to avoid my usual try and fail approach until stumbling on to a workable arrangement. I will replace all lines except the line running from the block to the rear of the car so it would be nice if it still reached the new location. This is being done in a 70 442 with AT. Would anyone have a pic of the finished relocation on a similar vehicle for reference?

Thanks,

Lamont
Old Dec 2, 2010 | 11:26 AM
  #6  
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Perhaps I should post what I have and see what comments I might get. The attached pic shows where I can set this up and appears to have enough clearance for lines. My problem with this orientation is that a drill can't be maneuvered into that space to drill the hole. Is the only option to make your own bracket that screws into the side but mounts the block on top or am I missing something obvious (certainly wouldn't be the first time)?

Thanks

Lamont
Attached Images
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Top of rail.jpg (87.8 KB, 58 views)
Old Dec 2, 2010 | 11:33 AM
  #7  
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If you can make a bracket great and best solution. The lines will pretty much hold the junction block where you put it and I have had no trouble just leaving it there without bolting it. You must check that no lines will rub anything else vibration will rub them thru and leak.
Old Dec 2, 2010 | 06:50 PM
  #8  
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From: graham,wa
see post #61 this thread...page 2



https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-my-car-2.html
Old Dec 3, 2010 | 06:29 AM
  #9  
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Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately the links to the images referenced by Leadfoot are blocked here at the office I will have to wait til this evening to see them. I am going to try and file down the shank of a drill bit and use a 90 degree attachment to try and drill a mounting hole. If I still can't get it to fit then I will make the bracket.

Feel kinda silly after reading Oldsmaniac's response. I just assumed everyone had figured out a way to mount the thing and it was supposed to be obvious.

Thanks again for the help
Old Dec 4, 2010 | 07:22 AM
  #10  
lll442's Avatar
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From: Wimberley, Tx
Leadfoot, finally got to review the pics. Thanks and great work!! Will use that as inspiration when I get frustrated at my progress. Can only hope mine comes out something close to what you accomplished.
Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:00 AM
  #11  
HWYSTR455's Avatar
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From: Manassas, VA
Bite the bullet and get the disc brake conversion line kit from Inline Tube. It mounts the prop under the master, and you don't have to worry about it anymore. You can buy the clip & bolt kit too for like 12 bucks, replace all the clips and bolts (heck with cleaning up the old ones).



.
Old Dec 6, 2010 | 06:32 AM
  #12  
Ranzan's Avatar
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From: Regina S.K. Canada
this is the kit I got from the right stuff.... quick and easy

http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/Instruc...CKT64_68DC.pdf
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