Paint Stripper
#1
Paint Stripper
What do you guys use to remove paint from your cars? Stuff I tried removed the clear coat but didn't touch the base coat. I let the stripper in paste form soak for 2 hours. Car was repainted in the 90's and used for a storage table later on with lots of scratches. Thanks
#2
Believe it or not, sometimes a razor blade scraper works well, along with a sharp paint scraper, DA sander with 36 grit to cut deep then 80 grit to remove last primer. A sander/polisher type grinder with 7 inch disc with similar heavy grit. I also used wire cup brushes on my 4 1/2 inch grinder, wear goggles or face shield because they will throw wires. Heavy clothes too if possible or you will end up looking like a porqupine. same. I just used the cheap Harbor Freight wire cups, they work good but you will need alot. I didnt use them much on the actual body surface, but mostly in door jambs, firewall, bottom of car etc. My car had 3 paint jobs on it, what seemed to be the bottom/ or first coat of paint was enamel, it got gummy. I used laquer thinner and several old rags to soften it and then easily scraped it off. It actually goes faster than you might think, but these are big cars. Its not a task everyone would want to take on. Or you can have it stripped, soda blast, chemical dipped, and if they know what their doing alot can be sand blasted, but a comercial sand blaster can warp panels beyond repair.
Its a big job but can be done, i did it. My main body is primed, blocked and ready to paint, the front fenders are ready, now im starting on my doors, then hood and trunk lid. When its all ready ill paint it all at the same time. The first picture, body is primed with Southern Polyurthanes epoxy. I dont think ill keep using it, just not crazy about it, although i do think it is on good and on to stay. There are some separation issues with it, that was mentioned on several reviews, and i had the same in a few small areas, I never had issues with PPG. The second pic is after final blocking. When i have everything primed and blocked out, then ill spray a sealer coat of epoxy on all then paint.
Good luck
Its a big job but can be done, i did it. My main body is primed, blocked and ready to paint, the front fenders are ready, now im starting on my doors, then hood and trunk lid. When its all ready ill paint it all at the same time. The first picture, body is primed with Southern Polyurthanes epoxy. I dont think ill keep using it, just not crazy about it, although i do think it is on good and on to stay. There are some separation issues with it, that was mentioned on several reviews, and i had the same in a few small areas, I never had issues with PPG. The second pic is after final blocking. When i have everything primed and blocked out, then ill spray a sealer coat of epoxy on all then paint.
Good luck
Last edited by steverw; June 13th, 2016 at 07:32 PM.
#3
If you are going to use liquid stripper you need to use aircraft stripper. It has been a long time but I have used it and it will strip it down to bare metal. It is strong and nasty stuff and you will need lots of ventilation and don't get it on you. I used plastic body filler spreaders to scrap the old paint off after it bubbled up. Rubber gloves and long sleeves are a must. You will probably have to make two applications. Once I had all the paint off I went back over it with steel wool soaked with lacquer thinner. It is a nasty time consuming job but it will get all the old paint off.
#4
I think what I used was Talstrip II, an aircraft stripper. Stiff plastic spreaders are better on the sheet metal - razor blades and steel putty knives work but can start nicking the metal leading to other problems.
Some areas needed two or three applications before everything came off.
Some areas needed two or three applications before everything came off.
#6
Thanks, I have stripped several cars using a liquid stripper and I know it is a nasty job but never this difficult to remove the old paint. Guess enamel and lacquer based paints were not this durable.
#8
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