I dont like my vynyl top and want to remove it. I am sure theres hidden rust I have to deal with but I really dont like the top. Will I need different window trim? Will removing the top take away from the curves of the car (meaning does a vynyl top cutlass have a lower roof then a hard top?). My cutlass is not anything special like a SX or 442.

 

Your back glass molding will remain the same and there is no difference in the roof itself. However, I believe the drip rail moldings are different for vinyl top and non vinyl so you might need to get another set of those. The only other issue is filling the holes that are there for the vinyl top trim moldings.
Brian

 

Thanks for the info . I pulled the top and am now working on rust repair.

 

I'm thinking of doing the same thing. However my '71 has what I've seen referred to as a "halo" top, meaning I have a small strip of hardtop between the vinyl and the windshield and windows. So I'm assuming I won't have the drip moldings issue.
How difficult was it to get off and did it leave a lot of sticky residue? Was the rust just surface rust or was it more serious? And this isn't the first time I've read about rust under the vinyl so doesn't that mean it should be pulled off? Won't it eventually eat through if not repaired?

 

All the moldings (drip rail and window moldings) are the same for vinyl and metal roof cars. The possible problem is that some cars with factory vinyl only used seam sealer in the gap between the roof and C-pillar. Metal roof cars had this joint filled with lead. I've seen it both ways, depending on the year and the assembly plant. My Lansing-built 69 442 has seam sealer in the joint. Obviously this needs to be cleaned out and properly filled if the vinyl is not being reinstalled.

Rust is extremely common under vinyl roofs for two reasons. First, at the pinchweld areas around the windshield and back window, the vinyl does an even better job of trapping moisture and dirt than the stainless trim by itself. Second, as the vinyl ages and cracks, moisture gets under it, causing rust in other areas. I've also never been a fan of the "halo" roof look.

 

I've seen the "halo" top before and wondered what it was . It was pretty easy the only pain was removing the sticky mess underneath. I'm sure there's better approaches to remove the adhesive (goo gone) but I just sanded it off with a DA sander . My top was redone so I'm assuming they at least primed the top because there wasn't too much rust on the roof it self but the window rim and passenger quarter was really badly rust damaged . In some areas the rust completely ate through the metal especially on the window pillars and dash.

 

The sticky residue didn't clog your sandpaper? If not, I'd say you went about it right. I don't have a DA sander, will an electric random orbital work? Or is the pad on your DA extra thick and soft, so as to conform to the contours of the surface?

 

It did ball up a little . When it did clump up I just stopped and wiped it off and kept sanding . The orbital should do the trick for most of the flat portion I don't know how flexible it is in contoured areas . The DA has a firm semi flexible pad that can do contours pretty easy . 80 grit medium sanding pads did the trick.

 

I have a lot of work to do before I'm ready to repaint. Just two very small rusted areas but a lot of mechanical work. I'll probably patch the rust and then paint the same grandma beige for now. But I can't wait to pull that top and paint the car a nice color.
Thanks for the tips.
-Mac

 

I have a lot of body work to do myself. Most of my mechanical is done. I do what I can when I can. Its been working out ok. I cant wait to get mine painted too. I want to do a white with gold stripes and gold side stripes.
Your welcome any time.

 

If the car will see any weather at all even just moisture after the top is off don't use primer on it. use rattle can paint. Primer will attract moisture causing more issues. Paint will protect it for now. Use correct metal prep and sealer then primer and primer and primer and blocking prior to paint.

 

Thanks for the tips.