Pan Sealant and a 3 vs 4 speed Q
#1
Pan Sealant and a 3 vs 4 speed Q
I've got it stripped waaayyyy down now....2 years later....and I've got a scheduled paint appointment in mid October....not an Earl Schibe job.....I have many many hours and a 55 gallon can of sanding disks in this....it's gonna be high end driver quality at least. To see what I started with, do a search on my username. Anyhow, here are a couple of pix. It was going to be a minor restro....but as things came to light, even with the rock solid foundation I had....I kept adding new little projects and ordering parts and watching videos....sheeeesh....I still haven't got the window scrapers on....gotta figure out how to lower the glass, so if you can tell me which adjusters to loosen, I'd appreciate it much....the Fisher manual has me confused. Anyhow....the body sealer that you can see in the second pic....very thick....very brittle....no adhesion at all - I guess I should wire wheel the whole floor and recaulk and repaint....would DAP or FlexSeal be okay?? And the tunnel....It's currently a 3 speed with a bench seat.....thought it was original (except for the 455 that's replaced the original engine) but I'd like to verify that it wasn't originally a 4 speed. If so, I might just throw an m22 on it since the drivetrain will never be original anyhow.
#2
Use two part seam sealers. The technology is much better today. And why do you want an M22? the 2.20 first gear will kill off the line performance. Unless you're running 3.91s or higher numerical, get a wide ratio trans.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post